Hi guys,

i'd like to ask which is the usual time/distance for your Yeti's to achieve engine work temp in winter ?

Some weeks ago i've noticed very unusual behavior on my Yeti - after passing 5-6 km engine was fully warm(90 C on temp gauge)

At that moment i've started to drive 4-5 km downhill, without throttle.

At the end of downhill, temperature of the engine has began to fall!!! After adding a throttle , temp has rise to normal 90C.

Have any of you has noticed similar behavior?

Hi guys,

Some weeks ago i've noticed very unusual behavior on my Yeti - after passing 5-6 km engine was fully warm(90 C on temp gauge)

At that moment i've started to drive 4-5 km downhill, without throttle.

At the end of downhill, temperature of the engine has began to fall!!! After adding a throttle , temp has rise to normal 90C.

That is exactly what you should expect, not unusual at all.

When you go downhill, the engine uses no fuel, so generates no heat. But it is still being cooled by the passing air.

That is exactly what you should expect, not unusual at all.

When you go downhill, the engine uses no fuel, so generates no heat. But it is still being cooled by the passing air.

Your points are ok, but is cooling so strong that decreases engine temp? Or something is wrong with engine thermostat(suppose his duty is to close coolant cycle through water cooler in order to keep engine warm)?

I have to say, I wouldn't expect that. Firstly, on the overrun (no throttle) the engine still generates a significant amount of heat through friction. Secondly modern temp gauges tend not to be directly showing temperature, but usually show a fixed 'comfortable' reading for a range of temperatures, only going up or down if the temperature falls outside the comfort zone.

All I can think is that after the first few km the temperature is just into the 'normal' range but then your overrun distance is just enough to lower the temp out of the operating zone and fall again. I suspect in warmer or colder weather it'll behave differently.

Back to my first point, around 1/3 of the energy from fuel is lost as heat through friction, and if you 'motor' an engine (turn it with an electrical motor, using no fuel) it will eventually reach operating temperature through friction alone.

Petrols are more prone than diesel to this cooling and warming of the cooling system in the winter. If your monster can give you oil temp readings have a look at that. My TDI in cold weather on hill decent drops from around 92-94 (oil temp) to 78-80 on a hill decent. Whereas In warm weather I've had it up to 115 on a hill climb. All quite normal and down to how the engine is being worked and cooled (temp differance between the cooler and air outside).

Hope of help,

TP

I have to say, I wouldn't expect that.

Expectations need to give way to observed facts. I have observed this many times - though not in mild climates such as where you live. And you do need a very long downhill stretch - miles long, as the OP said.

if you 'motor' an engine (turn it with an electrical motor, using no fuel) it will eventually reach operating temperature through friction alone.

On a test bench, maybe, but not if it is rushing through near-freezing air.

Hi guys,

i'd like to ask which is the usual time/distance for your Yeti's to achieve engine work temp in winter ?

Some weeks ago i've noticed very unusual behavior on my Yeti - after passing 5-6 km engine was fully warm(90 C on temp gauge)

At that moment i've started to drive 4-5 km downhill, without throttle.

At the end of downhill, temperature of the engine has began to fall!!! After adding a throttle , temp has rise to normal 90C.

Have any of you has noticed similar behavior?

Hi, (and sorry about my english) I had a similar problem with my previous golf IV 1.6 petrol.

the engines are designed to work on 90 degree C cooling water, and the system tendes to reach this temp asap and keep it that way.

when the engine is cold, the coolant is not circulated (as far as I know) within radiators in front, this is basically made for reaching the working temperature faster. after reaching that, thermostat opens the valve and the the coolant starts to circulate.

so wheather you are idling or driving downhill, the temp should not drop. it seems like the cooling fluid is circulation on radiators - even if it shold not ( which was my case). its better to check the termostat or circulation valve.

If I were you, I will check and see if this problem happens again, not a big problme but must be fixed, you will use more petrol with a cold engine

I hope this helps

Hi, (and sorry about my english) I had a similar problem with my previous golf IV 1.6 petrol.

the engines are designed to work on 90 degree C cooling water, and the system tendes to reach this temp asap and keep it that way.

when the engine is cold, the coolant is not circulated (as far as I know) within radiators in front, this is basically made for reaching the working temperature faster. after reaching that, thermostat opens the valve and the the coolant starts to circulate.

so wheather you are idling or driving downhill, the temp should not drop. it seems like the cooling fluid is circulation on radiators - even if it shold not ( which was my case). its better to check the termostat or circulation valve.

If I were you, I will check and see if this problem happens again, not a big problme but must be fixed, you will use more petrol with a cold engine

I hope this helps

Today i was at dealer's workshop and after computer diagnostics , they stated that thermostat is not working properly and needs to be replaced (thanks good, still under warranty ) .

Tomorrow i will pick up my SM and will see what will be results.

Anyway , thanks to all of you guys for advices and opinions.

I have noticed that the water temperature appears to stay the same, but the oil temp rises and falls. Even at idle the engine oil temp will drop as no load. I have only seen oil temp up to around 109, but then I have seen it dip to low 80's as well depending on load.

I have a diesel CR140.

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Hi again,

first at all, i wish a Happy New Year to all of you guys.

About the problem, i think that i found the reason for engine cooling: it's a heating system!!!

When heating in cabin is on and drive through downhill (means without throttle), engine temp starts to fall.

I've just turned off the fan and engine temp was normalized very soon, even outside temp was -2C.

So, is it possible that heating system can have such impact on coolant temperature ?

So, is it possible that heating system can have such impact on coolant temperature ?

Yes, if the engine is not working much, it's not generating much heat. Add in a downhill stretch of road with a nice cool wind blowing through the front too and a good heating system would be taking more heat out of the coolant than the engine is putting in. Therefore it gets colder.

Also a technique on classics that if the engine is running hot to open the windows and put the heater on full welly to try and keep a lid on things. That definitely saved me in an old 105E stuck in London traffic.

Recently through a period of inactivity with my car, I cold started my 1.2TSi and ran it stationary in my garage in order to fully warm & circulate the oil and to give the climate control a workout. The air temperature at that time was 5 deg.C and I let the engine tickover for around 15 mins by which time the water temp. was reading between a quarter and its normal running position of half way round. At that stage the oil temp had only just began to register at 50 deg. C. For the next 15 mins or so I varied the revs between tickover and 2500 rpm with the climate control set on auto. As soon as the climate control was switched on the water temp reading quickly dropped to below the quarter mark beforeeventually rising once more to its normal running halfway position. After that stationary running total period of 30 mins., the oil temp had reached 90 deg. C so the car had thoroughly warmed up. A rare event but it did demonstrate how the water temp. reacted to the climate control being turned on.

During that period of inactivity the battery was hooked up to a C-Tek charger.

Recently through a period of inactivity with my car, I cold started my 1.2TSi and ran it stationary in my garage in order to fully warm & circulate the oil and to give the climate control a workout. The air temperature at that time was 5 deg.C and I let the engine tickover for around 15 mins by which time the water temp. was reading between a quarter and its normal running position of half way round. At that stage the oil temp had only just began to register at 50 deg. C. For the next 15 mins or so I varied the revs between tickover and 2500 rpm with the climate control set on auto. As soon as the climate control was switched on the water temp reading quickly dropped to below the quarter mark beforeeventually rising once more to its normal running halfway position. After that stationary running total period of 30 mins., the oil temp had reached 90 deg. C so the car had thoroughly warmed up. A rare event but it did demonstrate how the water temp. reacted to the climate control being turned on.

During that period of inactivity the battery was hooked up to a C-Tek charger.

A very good example, which shows why car makers now say not to let a car idle to warm up, just start it and drive as it warms up much more quickly, saving fuel in the process.

Also a technique on classics that if the engine is running hot to open the windows and put the heater on full welly to try and keep a lid on things. That definitely saved me in an old 105E stuck in London traffic.

I nearly replied before you did with exactly the same thought... and EXACTLY the same car.

God you must be old! I know I am.

I nearly replied before you did with exactly the same thought... and EXACTLY the same car.

God you must be old! I know I am.

Some of us recall the 100E with its vacuum wipers - any incline and they came to a halt. Talk about auto wipers

Some of us recall the 100E with its vacuum wipers

No, no, no, no, no... er yes.

Some of us recall the 100E with its vacuum wipers - any incline and they came to a halt. Talk about auto wipers

Or even the E93!

Fred

Or even the E93!

Fred

My father had one of those followed by a Popular 103E. Those were the days, when a heater consisted of a travel rug , normally plaid or tartan This thread is slowly turning into a BOF's reminiscences

Seeing as you are based nr. Brighton, my first car was a 100E Anglia from Dinnages in Haywards Heath circa 1959 - £165 in old money !

100E with vacuum wipers, please send one express order of memory bleach.

Continuing BOF mode

Still on Fords, the original Z cars Zephyr, 3 speed column change, with non syncro first, the nervous tension going for a clean change down to first whilst climbing Hard Knott. Sixpence - half a crown moment.

Yes I am an old fart, but no bus pass yet.

I may have to grow old but I don't have to grow up.

There is an established opinion that the 1.2 TSI engine is an unusually slow-to-warm-up one. This was borne out by my experience in comparison to any other engine I've had.

Also - idling without moving not good - move it to get everything lubricated rather.

Really?

It's noticably faster than a diesel.

There is an established opinion that the 1.2 TSI engine is an unusually slow-to-warm-up one. This was borne out by my experience in comparison to any other engine I've had.

Also - idling without moving not good - move it to get everything lubricated rather.

Best to idle without moving initially whilst cold - but then vary the engine revs once it begins to warm up until normal running temp is achieved. Stationary this takes at least 30 mins of engine running in the case of a 1.2TSi, equivalent to a 10 mile journey or more, thoroughly warmed through and any exhaust condensation gone. Better still let the car tickover for a while when stone cold before driving off on a journey of 10 miles plus (mechanical sympathy) . Worst of all are drivers who start their cars from stone cold, drive off immediately on a very short journey of a mile or two. Buying a very low mileage car can be a good deal if it has been used little but covered decent mileages on each use or a very bad deal if said vehicle has done loads of very short journeys. DPF anyone?

I thought the Manual and general advice was not to leave car idling, but to drive off straight away.

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I thought the Manual and general advice was not to leave car idling, but to drive off straight away.

It is. Any load on the engine means it warms up much quicker. So less cold wear.

It's just no-load situations that people seem concerned about here... :wonder: