fitting sub advice on how to wire it up ?

[black-fabia-1.2-htp-2006-]

helo im just about to fit a sub in the morning well my mate is for me but was wondering were do i wire it as obv it needs to come from battery into the car ive heard the way of gromits but were are these ? also will they leak once fitted ? also is there any other ways also has anybody done it does it take long ? is it worth a crack of the whip or just take it halfrauds for 70 pound fitting ? any advice? thanks in advance

[fsa]

Took me an hour to do and I'm a complete noob when it comes to auto stuff. Got a fair bit of advice from the skoda Gods on here. Power from battery, leads from back of HU, trailed in the passenger side panelling to the boot, wired up and presto.

Have a gander from p2.

[DIPPY226]

im same mate im going to wire mine in as i have just got the car but need to find out what wires i need to buy to put my head unit in, it went straight in my mg but ive been told i will need wires to put it in my fabia, any help anyone??? and what keys do i need to get standard headunit out??

[Furby138]

I used These keys to remove my Symphony headunit, as recommended by many on here.

[DIPPY226]

I used These keys to remove my Symphony headunit, as recommended by many on here.

cheers i will them now

[ilmor]

I removed all the pasanger side trim and glove box. I ran the power and remote lead under the trim, i put the audio lead under the carpet. I then ran it all through the trim where the rear speakers are and out the back near the rear light cluster down the passanger side. I used a screw by the light cluster as a grounding point, once i had sanded down the paint off if it. My 2006 didnt have a gromit so i used a 12mm drill bit to drill through the bulk head behind the glove box to allow the power lead to be connected to the battery.

The main problem i had was the sub audio leads pressed into the trim at the back of the slot where the headunit fitted into the dash meaning the headunit wouldnt sit flusg with the dash. To solve this I purchased some 90 degree turn adapters, from Maplins, so the audio lead turned 90 degrees out of the headunit, then the wires would fit behind the headunit and run out just below the glove box.

Was a pain in the ass and took many trips to halfords, maplins and wickes for drill bits and grommets etc... But is well worth all the effort!

Have fun!

Ilmor

[black-fabia-1.2-htp-2006-]

I removed all the pasanger side trim and glove box. I ran the power and remote lead under the trim, i put the audio lead under the carpet. I then ran it all through the trim where the rear speakers are and out the back near the rear light cluster down the passanger side. I used a screw by the light cluster as a grounding point, once i had sanded down the paint off if it. My 2006 didnt have a gromit so i used a 12mm drill bit to drill through the bulk head behind the glove box to allow the power lead to be connected to the battery.

The main problem i had was the sub audio leads pressed into the trim at the back of the slot where the headunit fitted into the dash meaning the headunit wouldnt sit flusg with the dash. To solve this I purchased some 90 degree turn adapters, from Maplins, so the audio lead turned 90 degrees out of the headunit, then the wires would fit behind the headunit and run out just below the glove box.

Was a pain in the ass and took many trips to halfords, maplins and wickes for drill bits and grommets etc... But is well worth all the effort!

Have fun!

Ilmor

thanks for the info mate mine a 2006 but unsure if it has gromits yet as i havent had a look but i dont fanct drilling a hole as it could let water in ? does yours did you put sealant around it ? thanks

[Polo6n1600i]

The fabia is actually very easy to do - there is a grommet on the bulkhead that is big enough to allow the power cable through. Take out the glovebox and have a look on the bulk head, its up in the top left corner. also you can find it under the bonnet, just behind the wiper mech. I was a pro stereo installer and managed to fit mine in about 20 minutes. Only piece of thrim that caused me a pain was the b-pillar seatbelt cover and sill trim.

[ilmor]

thanks for the info mate mine a 2006 but unsure if it has gromits yet as i havent had a look but i dont fanct drilling a hole as it could let water in ? does yours did you put sealant around it ? thanks

I did, i got the gromits from Halfords and sealed it with bathroom sealant there may be a gromit under there, but i couldnt see/find it!

[anewman]

Only piece of thrim that caused me a pain was the b-pillar seatbelt cover.

I normally end up snapping them no matter what. Luckily they're not much over a tenner each from the dealers.

Here's how to install the power wire courtesy of Tech1e http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/195613-fabia-refurb-underway/page__view__findpost__p__2463288 You need to dremel the battery box a bit in a few places as you can see in the pics. As stated above it comes out behind the glovebox. I removed my wipers and the scuttle panel to do this, and removed the piles of leaves and compost in the plenum chamber at the same time. Remove the glovebox and push the wire through and feel for it the other side. For the earth, a good point is the factory earth up behind the carpet in the boot at the passenger side.

For the power cable I would use 4 gauge for future up-grades. If you might want to go super mad with amps in the future, then 0 gauge wire is the best to use, and to get it the cheapest look around for welding cable.

Equivalent of 0 gauge

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELDING-CABLE-365A-50MM-RED-PER-MT-AMP-BATTERY-POWER-/350357088059?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item5192e8e73b

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELDING-CABLE-365-AMP-50MM-BLACK-PER-MTR-ELECTRODE-ROD-/190342454558?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2c514b5d1e

Equivalent of 4 gauge

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELDING-CABLE-230-AMP-25MM-RED-PER-METRE-NO-35MM-200-/190296525338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c4e8e8a1a

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELDING-CABLE-230-AMP-25MM-BLACK-PER-METRE-NO-35MM-200-/190444143196?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c575b025c

Need about 5 metres from battery to boot, and 1 metre from amp to earth.

You may need to cut some of the plastic from the dash behind the stereo so it can fit back in with the RCA cables connected to the stereo.

Try to keep the power and RCA cables separate (i.e. don't run alongside each other). With the sill trim removed, I chose to remove the passenger seat and rear seats (rear seat removal requires no tools), lift up the carpet, and put the RCA's across that way. I put another pair at the same time in case I get around to installing an amp for the front speakers.

[trunks_mk1]

2013...excellent guide and very helpful info all.

If you've ever had your washer stop working, it usually because its come loose from the connector that goes into the bulk head which leads into and up to the washers. I used that gromit. There was another to the left of it (from inside the car)but you need to drill through. I took the easy option

Tucked all the cables under the trim, on the rear I remove the trim slighty (again another place where the washer connector to the rear usually comes apart), tucked it nice and tidy through there and out through the side into the boot. Awaiting amp and sub to finish off.

With the glove box out it was a good time to clean out the leaves and also feed my usb cable from the rear of the head unit into the glovebox through a small opening. Saved me a lot of hassle as I was going to have to cut a hole at the back of my cubby hole. Either way, usb is now usable and tidy.

Job made easier with the above info.

+100

Will add some pics up if it helps anyone.

[trunks_mk1]

<p>Just show this as this is probably the hardest bit.

[lukeanderson31]

Theres also a 'buzz board' or distribution block behind the drivers side dash trim. The panel under the steering wheel.

This would keep all wires inside the car. Its how i ran mine. Remember to fit an inline fuse.

Luke

[anewman]

I'd be careful using the board under the dash. Though If any problems occur, the fuse on top of the battery should blow to protect the wire. If you're using something high powered it really needs to be direct to the battery. The washer tube grommet shown above is quite tight, heavier gauge wires can fit through further up, as shown in above link. As important as the fuse is wire gauge, which should be able to cope with what the fuse can let through.

Sent from my Blade using Tapatalk 2

[Jack M]

i dont have much advice and im in the same boat as im about to wire one in, the only advice i can give (if its not already been said) is run power and audio cables along opposite sides of the car.

[lukeanderson31]

I'd be careful using the board under the dash. Though If any problems occur, the fuse on top of the battery should blow to protect the wire. If you're using something high powered it really needs to be direct to the battery. The washer tube grommet shown above is quite tight, heavier gauge wires can fit through further up, as shown in above link. As important as the fuse is wire gauge, which should be able to cope with what the fuse can let through.

Sent from my Blade using Tapatalk 2

im pretty sure all the board under the dash is, is a distribution board. so its a direct feed. so long as the amp cable is fused, which it should be anyways, this should be fine. have fitted subs and amplifiers to 3 fabias now without any problems what so ever

i dont have much advice and im in the same boat as im about to wire one in, the only advice i can give (if its not already been said) is run power and audio cables along opposite sides of the car.

my method also allows this, as you can run audio cables down the left, and power cables down the right

luke

[JoshH]

Any pics Luke certainly sounds a good way mate

[anewman]

im pretty sure all the board under the dash is, is a distribution board. so its a direct feed. so long as the amp cable is fused, which it should be anyways, this should be fine. have fitted subs and amplifiers to 3 fabias now without any problems what so ever

Remember there's a cable from the battery to that distribution board. Drawing too much power through a cable is what causes problems, and hooking up an amp is going to draw quite abit of extra power. Fuses are there to protect the wires. You essentially turn cable into a heating element, if it's not of sufficient gauge, which can cause fires. But as I say the fuse should blow to protect that wire. You'd probably only run into problems with higher powered systems needing a fuse of 60a, 80a or higher. I suspect the cable is specified to provide enough power for all extras ever made available for the car, such as heated seats, so if your car doesn't have these you might have that bit extra headroom.

[steve-yfzracer]

Remember there's a cable from the battery to that distribution board. Drawing too much power through a cable is what causes problems, and hooking up an amp is going to draw quite abit of extra power. Fuses are there to protect the wires. You essentially turn cable into a heating element, if it's not of sufficient gauge, which can cause fires. But as I say the fuse should blow to protect that wire. You'd probably only run into problems with higher powered systems needing a fuse of 60a, 80a or higher. I suspect the cable is specified to provide enough power for all extras ever made available for the car, such as heated seats, so if your car doesn't have these you might have that bit extra headroom.

My system was installed by professionals so have no doubt about the safety of running a cable from the distribution board, like mentioned above but their is still a fuse on the sub power cable too. has been like this for 2 years with no problems, my sub and amp are a £300ish JL audio set up so by no means top of the range but not a bad set up either (dont know the specifications so by price hopefully you can guage power needed??)

No heated seats mind you..

[steve-yfzracer]

<p>Just show this as this is probably the hardest bit.

<p>Just show this as this is probably the hardest bit.

Did you drill a hole for the cable to push through here i am guessing??

Thanks

[trunks_mk1]

@steve-yfzracer

no need to drill through metal, there is a rubber gromit there.

The system is in and working but waiting on warmer weather to tidy up the wires and up some pics...I want a smaller sub now. Way to big! hahaha.

Edited 12 March, 2013 by trunks_mk1

[steve-yfzracer]

@steve-yfzracer

no need to drill through metal, there is a rubber gromit there.

The system is in and working but waiting on warmer weather to tidy up the wires and up some pics...I want a smaller sub now. Way to big! hahaha.

Iv been looking at mine and my fabia seems to have metal here instead of rubber? Iv even scraped it with the screw driver, so looks like metal. Thanks anyway wont be a hard job drilling through as the photo has helped me know where to drill:)

Know what you mean your sub doesnt leave much room for anything else in the boot. build a smaller box jus:)

[trunks_mk1]

Steve, in the pic to the left of that hole is empty place to drill too, I went for the gromit was easier. Not sure what fabia you got but mines a 2000 elegance. Sub was a freebie sitting in the garage taking up room, got bored so fitted it...loud but now lost half of my boot :S

[steve-yfzracer]

Steve, in the pic to the left of that hole is empty place to drill too, I went for the gromit was easier. Not sure what fabia you got but mines a 2000 elegance. Sub was a freebie sitting in the garage taking up room, got bored so fitted it...loud but now lost half of my boot :S

Well in mine it has the 1 wire going through and a rubber gromit but their is only enough room for the one lead thats already their, I need to get a power cable through and 2 air lines. so probably opt for the empty hole to the left:) perhaps leave it too my mechanic also lol hes getting the car on Thursday anyway..

Cant beat a freebie..

[trunks_mk1]