Heys guys my stage 2 vrs doesnt seem to be boosting proberly. It spikes at 10psi and settles at about 8psi although the car still pulls like a train. Any 1 any ideas where to start lookin ive had a look at the vac pipes and they all seem ok. Cheers

faulty boost gauge ?

Possibly. But went out in vrs wrc car today and his felt alot quicker.

10 psi is regular boost for a std car

check for fault codes and go for a boost leak test

Where would i get a boost leak check done??.

I'm sure we will find it out what it is matey. And thank for saying mine felt a lot quicker :-)

Have you checked all your intercooler pipes matey :-)

That's standard boost

Either bad boost leak or the ecu had been flashed ?? Been to main dealer recently???

I went to the main dealers jst before crimbo for the coilpack recal. Would they have flashed the ecu then??

mine went in thursday and they just cleared any fault codes so cant see why they would have? Is that when it started boosting low?

I went in this yesterday and it pull well but like gav said the boost pressure is very low for a stage 2 map. At times it was holding around 6-7 psi.

mine went in thursday and they just cleared any fault codes so cant see why they would have? Is that when it started boosting low?

Im not sure as i put the boost gauge in after crimbo.

6~7 may be low even for a std map. check breather pipes or vac lines under mainfold

Ive had a look to the best of my abilities but nothin looks suspect. Any other ideas as im at a loss.

you need to log the requested boost and actual boost buddy without doing that you will be going in circles

you need to log the requested boost and actual boost buddy without doing that you will be going in circles

?? How do i go about doin that

?? How do i go about doin that

using vag-com

if you're not having access to such, try a DIY boost leak tester. u'll surely find guides and tutorials round here for that

It's worth unplugging the MAF & seeing if the car runs better. If it does you have a dodgy MAF.

Check all the boost pipes especially the one that goes into the top of the DV, & the 2 small braided pipes on the inlet manifold. They are notorious for splitting & because of the braid very difficult to spot splits. There's also a S shaped pipe under the inlet manifold that splits, & that's hard to spot splits unless you remove it.

How easy is it to remove the inlet manifold. Do i need to replace anything when i take it off

You dont remove the inlet manifold, simply check the small rubber pipes on the underside of the plenum (box section of the manifold).

Steve

You may need to remove the small plastic cover and the metal plate underneath (near the dipstick) to get better access to all the little pipes. If there's loads of dirt and oil around that area thats usually a good sign the S-hose has split.

Well i unplugged the maf and no difference. There was a bit of oil in that area but didnt kno to remove the metal plate. Thats the next place to look tommorow then

Pop to mine anytime and try the maf of mine or of the golf matey

Pop to mine anytime and try the maf of mine or of the golf matey

Cheers mate

you need to get it on vagcom otherwise you will be there forever

if you log what i said then you can either see the maps been wiped and its running standard or the actual boost is miles away from requested will show a boost leak or damaged turo ( last unlikely )

you will also see if there are any faults logged

someone local must have a copy of vagcom