Hi folks. Having read through a number of previous threads on issues with the CL, I thought I'd cracked it by getting a replacement convenience control unit. Nope. From the start, the key fob only unlocked the CL, but I knew this was a broken contact in the remote. So we have just used the key in the driver's door to unlock & lock. Worked fine for a number of months, but would occasionally also wind down all 4 windows (which it seemed was only when holding the key in the unlocking position). A few weeks back, it started doing it all the time, so we resorted to unlocking & locking the car from the hatch boot lock, as the driver's door lock would only unlock (and wind the windows down)and not lock the car. More recently, this too now only unlocks (the indicators flash when unlocking so is all connected to CL). To complicate things, the interior lights started to stay on after taking the ignition key out, but this has on its own corrected itself. Concurrently with these issues, the front wipers stayed on, so reading up on here, I changed the rear motor and that is all sorted now, with wipers all okay (I only mention just in case these are related!).

Last week I took the door card off and checked the window motor unit, all seemed dry enough and no noticable defects. I also disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to see if that cleared any fults with the CCU. So, I have now replaced the CCU with one of the same part number, and the same faults occur;

1. Remote fob does not unlock car, even though red LED shows power is in the fob.

2. Key unlocks car in driver door, but all windows open.

3. Key in driver's door does not lock any doors.

4. Key in boot lock unlocks all doors as it should, but will not lock them.

The only way to lock the car is to lean in from rear offside passenger door and press the CL button on the driver's door (which suggests that CL has some functionality).

The 'door open' light comes on when the driver's door is open, and the 'lights on' beeper works when lights left on, and the interior lights work again, so this seems to suggest the driver door lock microswitch is working.

Using a cheap code reader all I got was a 'low fuel' code which is odd.

I have bought a second hand key, and the local main dealer will programme both fobs for under £25, so I will do this, but can't see that this will sort it, but will at least give us a spare key, as at present it is just the one with the iffy fob.

Any ideas would be much appreciated, its my partner's car and I don't want her to find herself locked out whilst she's out because the locking decides to give up completely.

Thanks in advance! Mike.

Edited 28 January, 201214 yr by mikeo

Sounds like either a faulty door catch on the drivers side or wiring into the door.

Thanks Tech1e. Would the same problem of not locking with the key be on the boot lock as well as the driver's door if it was a dodgy wire? One of the wires (brown, earth?) in the loom between driver door & pillar had breakages in the outer sheath but the wire itself looked okay, and I wrapped it in insulation. I'll check the wiring diagram, but thought that the boot lock should work if this is the case, and the CL switch on the door itself works.

I'm thinking that parts within the lock barrel have broken, you should be able to get repair kits from a dealer for less than a fiver. Part numbers 1J0998001 and 1J0998002 I think.

I'm thinking that parts within the lock barrel have broken, you should be able to get repair kits from a dealer for less than a fiver. Part numbers 1J0998001 and 1J0998002 I think.

Thanks. Odd that both locks (driver and boot doors) have both gone, but possibly. Thanks for the part numbers!

Got as far as taking the trim and bonnet catch off today, with a view to checking wiring to the door.

I tried to unlock and start the car today with just the key blade, so fob over 20 metres away. Could unlock and start the car. Does the fob not affect the immobiliser?!

The immobiliser is completely independent of the remote locking and does not require any batteries in the key for it to function.

The immobiliser is completely independent of the remote locking and does not require any batteries in the key for it to function.

Ah, thanks! Have just got some servisol delivered, will try that in the lock and check the wiring at the weekend. Cheers.

Just on the subject of CL does anyone else`s lock and open violently the fist time I sat in the car and locked it (not sure why) I nearly ship my pants.

The door locks contain a number of micro switches that the CL/CCU use to determine the state of the system (locked, unlocked, key turned to open/closed, door open/closed etc) These microswitches wear out causing all sorts of issues. On top of this the CCU goes faulty(but you have changed yours) and the Door control unit(the one inside the door attached to the window thingy)corrodes and pins break off. On top of top of those there have been some issues with the wiring breaking where it goes into the door as well.

If you have problems with the windows opening/closing on the key, then the microswitches in the door lock mech are shot OR the lock barrel is not locating properly(sometimes the flat bit that turns breaks)

On mine I have had issues with the drivers door more than others and have tried all sorts to fix it.

Thanks. I was hoping its not the microswitches afetr seeing how fiddley it is to change them. Will try the servisol and see what this does. The window motor connections in door looked okay and no noticably broken pins. Will check continuity on all this when its warm enough to be out there taking door cards off! Weird that the boot door now only unlocks, and doesn't lock, maybe that is due to signals from iffy driver door microswitch going into CCU. Once I sort this I'll have a spare CCU so if anyone needs one cheaper than ebay, let me know.