Well I set about lowering the vRS today, got all the tools etc, started on the back nice an easy took about 30 mins. Then came the front. Wheels off loosened the top mount removed the drop link, un done the track rod end locking nut, is the instruction it say tap with a hammer! Tap! I then spent the next 2 hours trying to knock the b****** out and it is still in there now, had a lump hammer even heated it up with the blow torch! Nothing, so I now have a half lowered car lol.

I've had a quick look on here an people say you need a proper dismantling fluid, plus gas or similar I only had wd40 which done nothing, off I go to order some

I know places say you shouldnt but used a small chisel to gently prize open the hub slightly after taking the pinch bolt out obviously and with spring compressors on to give some extra movement it came out much easier.

Be careful of the passenger side though as the driveshaft is longer and doesnt allow as much movement as the drivers so keep an eye on it before knocking seven bells out of the hub.

Also avoid using heat anywhere near suspension and brakes v dangerous not trying to patronise you but some people dont know

This is why I always leave it to a garage. If you guys can't do it then there's no way in hell I'd be able to!

Got the hub to move no problem it's the track rod end bolt I can't get out, I'll put a pic up in a min

This is why I always leave it to a garage. If you guys can't do it then there's no way in hell I'd be able to!

I know, but all was goin well and this one little thing stops everything, would have been perfect if it came out 2 hours job tops

this is what needs to be knocked out. Any one got any tips

I dont think i touched the track rod end as once the strut is out of the hub youve got a decent amount of room to play its the top nut on the damper strut i stuggled with a nightmare finding a spanner to fit that gap and allow an alan key socket as well.

Out of interest coils or springs?

If you need to take it out though you need a ball joint wedge ideally

Hammer and punch? Or a smallish pry bar and leaver it out

If you need to take it out though you need a ball joint wedge ideally

But it'll more than likely ruin the rubber on the bail joint so going to get this http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173425_langId_-1_categoryId_255216

need to go and measure it to make sure it will fit.

Hammer and punch? Or a smallish pry bar and leaver it out

Been batering it with a 4lb hammer its well in there lol

I dont think i touched the track rod end as once the strut is out of the hub youve got a decent amount of room to play its the top nut on the damper strut i stuggled with a nightmare finding a spanner to fit that gap and allow an alan key socket as well.

Out of interest coils or springs?

I tried but I didn't want to damage the track rod pushing the hub down to far and damaging it.

The top nut was alright, I just put a socket on it and griped the outside of the socket with some stillsons and put the Allen through the middle of it.

Just springs mate, H&R 40mm ones well recommend from jonny boy and the drop looks fantastic on his

I tried but I didn't want to damage the track rod pushing the hub down to far and damaging it.

The top nut was alright, I just put a socket on it and griped the outside of the socket with some stillsons and put the Allen through the middle of it.

Just springs mate, H&R 40mm ones well recommend from jonny boy and the drop looks fantastic on his

I think there is still enough movement that the track rod wont contact with anything and once everything is off if you support the wishbone and the caliper it wont bend anything.

Have you got any further with it yet mate?

Sorry you're having issues Hayden, but really look forward to the end result pictures

You're going to be made up with the new ride

what part are you hammering ? you need to hit the actual hub where the ball joint slots into, not the track rod end.they normally release pretty easily if contact is made in the right place

Isn't this where you should be employing a balljoint splitters? They're a taper fit so just bashing it with a hammer won't do much?

Splitters will damage the boot. If you want to release the taper just knock on the end of the hub where the ball joint sits.

All kinda irrelevant anyhow as you don't need to undo it to change the strut anyhow????

All kinda irrelevant anyhow as you don't need to undo it to change the strut anyhow????

That made me giggle!!

How many times have I done something similar, doh!!!

I think there is still enough movement that the track rod wont contact with anything and once everything is off if you support the wishbone and the caliper it wont bend anything.Have you got any further with it yet mate?

No mate I gave up because I just couldn't get it to budge, I had the hub right down with about 10mm left to go but didn't want to carry on in case it damaged the track rod

Sorry you're having issues Hayden, but really look forward to the end result pictures You're going to be made up with the new ride

I was gutted especially after the backs were no problem and they look well better already. I'll have another go tomorrow if I get chance

what part are you hammering ? you need to hit the actual hub where the ball joint slots into, not the track rod end.they normally release pretty easily if contact is made in the right place

I'm hammering the top of the bolt that comes up from the underside, in the pic above I'm hitting the bolt that has the nut undo half way

Splitters will damage the boot. If you want to release the taper just knock on the end of the hub where the ball joint sits. All kinda irrelevant anyhow as you don't need to undo it to change the strut anyhow????

Thought that about the spliters but thought I might get away with it, so I can drop the hub down enough to get the strut out with out it damaging the track rod? I was doing the passenger side first, and someone said this is the worse as the track rod is longer? Like I said I has about 10mm left to go but was worried if I damaged it. Will it just drop down as far as it can or do I have to stop it going to far?

**Thanks for everyone's input **

This is why I always leave it to a garage. If you guys can't do it then there's no way in hell I'd be able to!

Dear knows what goes on at most garages Lols

I'm hammering the top of the bolt that comes up from the underside, in the pic above I'm hitting the bolt that has the nut undo half way

that's why it won't budge mate,you're hammering the wrong bit,you're going to damage the ball joint hammering it there.

it's the outer part where the ball joint goes up into you hammer.(the actual hub)

I'm hitting this bit down:

Where do you mean mate? hitting it anywhere else would damage it wouldn't it?

it's the hub part you hammer not the actual track rod or joint.lol don't know how to draw a arrow on it.

it's the bit the joint goes through.its the impact/shock of hitting the hub that release the joint not the hammering of the actual joint

I'm confused I dunno where u mean mate lol.

Right click the pic save as. Save it to ur desktop open it with paint an you can put an arrow on it, then upload to photobucket or similar an post it back here.

The threaded bit I'm hitting connects to the joint so surely hitting that will push it out? Or am I completely wrong, hopefully after wat tech1e sed I won't need to take it off but it would make it easier

hope this helps mate,but as you say you might not need to remove it.yeah you need to change the way you are thinking about it,its not the track rod you want to hit.