Skip to content

ASR Light and fault codes

Featured Replies

For some odd reason my 2006 vrs suddenly in the middle of driving seems to have permanently had the ASR light come on.

Once this morning it came on mid way, it cleared when I started car on the way home then reoccured about half way through my journey.

Running pretty well, good acceleration so no tell tail of other issues there. Handling isn't too bad.

She perhaps felt a bit tight/heavy on the steering but I could just be making this up, might just be slightly low low tyre pressures and I havent been paying attention

Quite a few fault codes, so I'll probably get some help to run it again and hopefully the less important ones will be diminished by the more relevant codes when the ASR (slipping) light comes on again

Read about the brake switch but I checked and my brake light is coming on normally, and once the fault came on, I couldn't clear it with the ASR on/off button either. Any ideas ??

Chassis Type: 6Y - Skoda Fabia

Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,17,19,37,44,46,56,69

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 038 906 019 NJ

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 7331

Coding: 00102

Shop #: WSC 73430

TMBWU46YX74057649 SKZ7Z0F3760998

1 Fault Found:

17911 - Load Signal from Alternator Term. DF: Implausible Signal

P1503 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6Q0 907 379 AG

Component: MABS 8.0 front H05 0002

Coding: 0002229

Shop #: WSC 73430

1 Fault Found:

18265 - Load Signal: Error Message from ECU

P1857 - 000 - - - Intermittent

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6Y0 820 045

Component: Klimaanlage X0840

3 Faults Found:

65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error

00-00 - -

01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)

30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent

01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)

41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

Address 09 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6Q1 937 049 D

Component: 0000 BN-SG. 1S34

Coding: 25742

Shop #: WSC 73430

1 Fault Found:

01598 - Drive Battery Voltage

07-10 - Signal to Low - Intermittent

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6Y0 920 973 S

Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT VDO V04

Coding: 28402

Shop #: WSC 12345

No fault code found.

Address 19 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6N0 909 901

Component: 003M GATEWAY CAN 1S34

Coding: 00014

Shop #: WSC 73430

No fault code found.

Address 44 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6Q0 423 156 AB

Component: LenkhilfeTRW V270

Coding: 10120

Shop #: WSC 73430

No fault code found.

Address 46 -------------------------------------------------------

Controller: 6Q0 959 433 E

Component: 60 Komfortgerát 0002

Coding: 00018

Shop #: WSC 73430

No fault code found.

End -------------------------------------------------------

EDIT: first port of call, I'm going to try replacing the battery.

Any recommendations on a good one (if not the original Fabia one?)

Edited by dominorising

just had a standard one in at work with the same problem start the car up and check the voltage coming out of the plug on the alternator(with the plug still connected) we came down to it needs a new alternator i work for skoda and this is a very common fault unfortunatley normally the alternator :(

oh and first thing make sure the alternator it actually working just put a multimeter onto the battery while the engine is running it should read about 14v

Bet it takes exactly 10 minutes it comes on.

If you start up from cold and leave the trip timer (reset it first) on.

Then run or idle the car (makes no difference which) and during minute 10

the tractioncontrol light will come on.

I've been having the same fault and initially I thought it was

because I had just fitted a new radio and I'd disturbed/disconnected/damaged

a wire back there somewhere.

Mines going into my indy for a quick scan and repair if it's what softscoop

has pointed out.

Have a butchers at my symptomsHere and see if it's the same.

I've seen this problem before pretty common, jack the car up, remove under tray, if u look at the front of the car close to the gear box you'll something like a d clip with a wire disconnected. I think the wire has something to do with the alternator hence the fault code your experiencing. Just attach the wires and insulate them. Good luck

Edited by Tony1554

Yup. Happened to mine.

  • Author

Cheers for the suggestions ! I've actually got a battery on order anyway, an exide but this perhaps was a bit premature

It was 6 years old so I think its worth replacing anyway and I had an almost "its not going to start" moment a few times over the cold spell though.

If the alternator isn't working correctly then this may be false economy (ruining a new battery too) but good to begin troubleshooting with good parts anyway.

Thanks

The alternator will be working fine but only once the engine revs over 2500rpm to make it "kick-in" while that load signal wire is broken.

It will honestly take a maximum of 30 minutes to repair those wires. Both mine were broken and it took me 15 mins to splice a bit of wire in and crip some connectors on.

Phil

  • Author

Cheers

Grr666 it is the same, exactly 10 minutes before the error shows on the dash ! Wierd

Cheers

Grr666 it is the same, exactly 10 minutes before the error shows on the dash ! Wierd

watching this with interest as I have the same problem.

I know its not the alternator wires as I checked these. mine started having changed hubs for upgraded brakes so my prime suspect is the wheel sensors or in my case I think the bearings which house the rotor the sensor gets the signal from.

hoping its something elst though :)

just had a standard one in at work with the same problem start the car up and check the voltage coming out of the plug on the alternator(with the plug still connected) we came down to it needs a new alternator i work for skoda and this is a very common fault unfortunatley normally the alternator :(

I'd be checking the load signal wiring at the plug in front of the box first as mentioned. Seen many alternators wrongly diagnosed due to that wiring fault being missed.

Had mine scanned today at my Indy and theres 2 faults under "engine"

Copied exactly from printout.

18009 - Relay for supply voltage terminal 30 (J317)

P1601 - 35-00 - Implausible signal

and

17911 - Load signal from alternator term. DF

P1503 - 35-10 - Implausible signal- Intermittent

Readiness 0 0 0 0 0

  • Author

I can't see any broken wires though !!! Only thing is one set of thin wires I saw in that area was very taught, but not disconnected.

According to the seat one though, its the one that's firmly strapped to a bracket - and that doesn't appear disconnected.

I can see the battery light not coming on from startup now I finally noticed this, confirming something is missing.

I'd rather have actually found a broken wire to be honest.

Not sure how to progress now. Would it be worth taking to an independant / auto electrician to sort ?

  • Author

correction - it is now ! Think it was very brittle and although it didn't actually break through both I think one of the wires may have failed.

I fixed it albeit this may be superficial since there was less than 5mm protuding from the connector, and far for nice fresh wire.

Rather than followed the seat guide to splice in new wire and removing the socket termination altogether, I just soldered short bit of wire onto the thinner wire that must have broken in the loom, as well as to the other wire which I had cut in order to fully remove the socket off the car.

I have attempted to solder this onto the car in the existing loom, and then electrical taped up, rather than the evil scotchlocks.

God it was quite tarnished wire on that thinner wire that probably had snapped or near as damn it, when compared to the other wire at least (which was blue I think). About twice as thick must have about 3 or 4 strands of wire on the thinner one! Maybe that is the discussion in regard to the loom design failure?

For point of future reference to anyone, the connector is 1j0 973 722, might be useful if getting new wires and connector to splice into the existing loom which I might do myself if my solder bodge plays up.

Checked again and I'm getting an alternator light and not sure if I had this before but maybe fooled myself that there is a battery light, as this doesn't show up still, but on a drive test I passed the 10 minute mark and no ESR light yet on 2 journey over 10 mins)

I haven't scanned the codes yet.

Edited by dominorising

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.