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turbo question

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hi to everyone,guess my turbo is done according to the mechanic,question is how much will it cost me to buy and let the mechanic refit it?and what is the cheapest i would expect?and to the guys who had the same problem what is the best solution to this problem?is rebuilding the turbo worth it?if so where can i have it?thanks for the ideas and advices..

What are your syptoms?

  • Author

when im driving it hard and it reaches around 70 mph it jerks or hesitates and after that its like its just a normal diesel car no turbo boost,and i have to switch off the engine and turn it on again to make it ok,it now happens consistently anytime anywhere,the air mass meter was renewed by the way..thanks man for your reply..

Sounds to me like the common problem of a sticky turbo vane mechanism caused by rust and soot build up. Many of us had had this - mine at just 54k miles - usually brought on by driving like a granny below 3500 rpm and low turbo temperature.

Solution is to take off the turbo and have it cleaned professionally (about £250+) or do it yourselves (see guide on here by mbames).

The lack of power is initiated once the boost has become excessive (normally noticed first when accelerating up a hill or overtaking) and is caused by the ECU reducing power as a protection. Turning the ignition off and on resets everything.

Make a search on here for the many many posts on this subject or search on the net for "vag tdi turbo problems"

Mike

Yep sure sounds like sticky vanes. Nothing wrong with the basic turbo, just the overcomplex VG mechanism showing it's sensitivity to soot.

You wouldn't be driving the car if the turbo had gone.

Book time is about 3.5 hours to remove and refit the turbo if you go to a dealer/vag indi.

If you have the time (say a weekend) and can do without the car for that length of time, then there is nothing too complicated about removing the turbo, cleaning it and refitting.

Having an extra pair of hands is a bonus at times, and some socket drive allen keys. Plus gas and taking your time, along with a few gaskets is all you need.... (maybe a new oil feed pipe if you are unlucky).

I had this last year.

owever in my case it turned out it wasn't the vanes. After putting it into a very helpful garage in Chesterfield they diagnosed it as one of the valves (afraid I can't recall which). This indeed seemed to solve the problem, but then a couple of months later it was back. I took it to the same guy, having already checked the VAG COM myself. It was reporting an issue with another valve and the manifold control or something.

When he looked into it, he discovered that the problem was the wires bounce around in the daft corrigated pipes, and eventuall the plastic wears through and you get a short. He fixed the wire and both issues went away but were replaced with another valve error, this was traced to a blown fuse most likely caused by the short.

Everything fixed, nothing wrong with the turbo, and no more limp modes when pulling hard up a hill.

Tom

Obviously before taking the turbo off, checks should be made on:

- MAF

- Air pipework/joints

- n75 control valve

- vacuum pipework (old age / clips can cause the pipe to fail)

Also logging requested MAP vs actual MAP can help to show is the turbo is failing to deliver, or over delivering (and causing a limp-home fault code).

Best get: get the car scanned for faults and post those back here - worth posting the whole list of faults, as a lot of things can cause turbo/power issues - even a failing CTS.

  • Author

thanks to you guys,yap i'll get it scanned and i'll post for developments,thanks again..

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