Just a quick question, forge recirc valves... is there any benefit changing fom the standard one to a forge one?? also I see that theres a 007 and a 007p, is there any difference in these?

007 and 007P are the same thing.

The only benefits over the standard DV is that the Forge is harder wearing and you can adjust it for whatever boost you're running.

The standard Bosch valve is the same one as used on the 225bhp S3 / Cupra R which run a K04 turbo producing 12psi compared to 10psi on the VRS so the Bosch valve is far from the limits on a VRS

thanks for the info

And shiny

Dont forget shiny

shiny = more cleany

Only thing with the forge valve is that its expensive, compbrake one is just as well made and still shiny for less £££ lol

Think i'm gonna get one of these, cheap as chips and looks like a 007 copy to me. Even comes with two different springs for increased boost and supports max 40psi. If it does the trick why pay an extra £100 to Forge? lol

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360461088789?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1952.l2649

Think i'm gonna get one of these, cheap as chips and looks like a 007 copy to me. Even comes with two different springs for increased boost and supports max 40psi. If it does the trick why pay an extra £100 to Forge? lol

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1952.l2649

Why waste £30 on some shonky valve when the standard Bosch item will do the job then?!

The standard DV has lower hysteresis, due to the fact that it uses a diaphragm rather than a piston with o-rings. You also run the risk of the o-rings running dry and breaking up, then passing down the intake and destroying the turbo. A risk that doesn't exist with the Bosch DV. Obviously with a diaphragm you run the risk of leaks due to fretting or silicone degradation due to oil contamination, which are well known issues.

The DV doesn't give you any extra boost, or allow you to hold any more boost than normal. It operates when you lift off the throttle when under boost, so that's the only aspect you can tune.

i got a Forge 008 on my mapped vrs.. holds the boost alot longer than the OEM DV did higher up the revs.

Its shiny, will last longer, and will bive me piece of mind knowing a plastic OEM aint going to crack on me.

dv 008

hmmm i like my forge black version a lot

The one I have at the moment is the standard plastic crappy bosch thing. That's why I'm going for the one on ebay. It's aluminium and will last alot longer, the same as the forge one and the springs can be changed in it just the same as the forge one. Your paying an extra £100 for a brand name. Forge probably get their casts from china, the same place this one comes from...

Edited 25 May, 201214 yr by sammyhale30

you can get a lot more then two springs for the forge one,also shims to really fine tune it(if needed)the compbrake looks good, but would you buy a cheap remap or spend a bit more on a proven one......?

If the compbrake one was rubbish then forge wouldn't of banned all their dealers from advertising them on their website lol. After nearly 3 years my compbrake one is still like new

Sent from my GT-I9100. Not a Crapple!

the price is to high for the forge one now,when i got mine it cost around £60(seven years ago and still like new)which would be a better price then £100+ they cost now,compbrakes a good copy of a great valve

Why waste £30 on some shonky valve when the standard Bosch item will do the job then?!

The standard DV has lower hysteresis, due to the fact that it uses a diaphragm rather than a piston with o-rings. You also run the risk of the o-rings running dry and breaking up, then passing down the intake and destroying the turbo. A risk that doesn't exist with the Bosch DV. Obviously with a diaphragm you run the risk of leaks due to fretting or silicone degradation due to oil contamination, which are well known issues.

The DV doesn't give you any extra boost, or allow you to hold any more boost than normal. It operates when you lift off the throttle when under boost, so that's the only aspect you can tune.

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What a load of scare mongering C**p !!!. My 007p has been on the car since ive had it, no probs. Oh Oh Oh seals breaking up, mmm difficult one, I think I have a idea.... ahh yes Red Grease I know.... check once a year add lube if required very very difficult. I have heard that diaphragms can and do break up with not good results. I do not have data to validate this. But hey thats my opinion lol.

When people make sweeping statements about product reliability and risks therein I would expect the argument to be supported with empirical data. I await the said document with baited breath lol.

However all is not lost, I do agree that it does nothing to increase performance results and that the response time could be faster with the Bosch one (less mass to move). However you can with most ally ones alter the release pressure if you go for megga remaps and loads of mods. The Bosch one is "this is as good as it gets".

Soooo I suppose you pays your money and take your chances.

Could I intervene the debate with a complete noob question concerning DVs (OEM or these Forge 007s)...;

Is it an easy DIY job to change the DV? Do I have to worry about anything, before disconnecting hoses attached to the DV?

Many thanks!

Edited 25 May, 201214 yr by Longyear

Could I intervene the debate with a complete noob question concerning DVs (OEM or these Forge 007s)...;

Is it an easy DIY job to change the DV? Do I have to worry about anything, before disconnecting hoses attached to the DV?

Many thanks!

Hi Buddy,

No question is a "noob" question, if we dont ask we dont learn. This is a forum to share our experiences that way we all grow and move on, we arnt born with loads of knowledge. I'll stop now before you nod off lol.

Anyway to answer your question, if you still have the original hoses you will need to unclip those stupid vw hose clips, I replaced mine with nice stainless hose clips so if thats the case have some new ones of the correct sizes ready.

To fit the DV I think the most sensible route is to orientate it exactly as the same as the one your replacing. That was one of the first mods I did, so to play it safe I had the new one beside the existing and swapped over each hose in turn. Easy peasy

Many thanks mate, that's appreciated and helpful. Seems a doddle, but yes I do have those pesky "use only once" hose clip things on, so will get some proper mini hose clips ordered, and go for it.

Just standard radiator worm drive clips are fine got mine from the local motorfactors

Sent from my GT-I9100. Not a Crapple!

i had a compbrake one on my a3.. had no problems with it. The Forge 008 i now have cost me a little bit more than the compbrake as i got a good deal. (2 digits not 3) Seemed a false econamy for me to get the compbrake one. Plus.. if you forge haters(which i generally am as its soooooo over priced) there is videos and write us on the 008 vs 007 vs OEM etc etc.. there are differences. I deffo feel the 008 holds boost longer in the high revs. Also, i wanted something pretty! oh and its really shiny so ner!

Where are people getting £100+ for the forge 007p's

There £78 i think!!

Actually saying that they used to be £78 3 months ago but the price has shot up a good £30

Just to fuel the fire ....

I'm back on the standard plastic one atm

I can't tell difference between that and my forge one. If anything the standard is smoother when you come off the loud pedal, but that is if I'm being picky

if your standard ones in good nick it should feel the same,but if old/bit worn you should notice a slight differance changing to a new oem/forge etc....+forge is shiney!

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What a load of scare mongering C**p !!!. My 007p has been on the car since ive had it, no probs. Oh Oh Oh seals breaking up, mmm difficult one, I think I have a idea.... ahh yes Red Grease I know.... check once a year add lube if required very very difficult. I have heard that diaphragms can and do break up with not good results. I do not have data to validate this. But hey thats my opinion lol.

When people make sweeping statements about product reliability and risks therein I would expect the argument to be supported with empirical data. I await the said document with baited breath lol.

However all is not lost, I do agree that it does nothing to increase performance results and that the response time could be faster with the Bosch one (less mass to move). However you can with most ally ones alter the release pressure if you go for megga remaps and loads of mods. The Bosch one is "this is as good as it gets".

Soooo I suppose you pays your money and take your chances.

My dear fellow, fear not! I have the data and the experience. I speak only of what I know from my 3+yrs as a component expert for wastegate and pneumatic VG actuators. All of my WG actuators used diaphragms, so I'm more than familiar with their failure modes and advantages. All of the pneumatic VG actuators were piston type actuators, with o-rings. They were the bane of my life!

A piston type actuator can never compete with a diaphragm actuator on hysteresis. For one key reason, friction. This high hysteresis isn't necessarily a problem, as long as it's known and repeatable. But the repeatability is incredibly sensitive to the grease type/amount/condition/location. Controlling the grease in this way is very hard and it's at this point that you find the designs limits. As you and I both know (I too run a Forge piston DV), the piston DV's need servicing. The servicing gives you a chance to control the grease to some degree, but you'll never change the high base hysteresis.

Diaphragm actuators obviously can't handle as much pressure as a piston, but that shouldn't be a problem in this case. Diaphragms can handle between 3 and 5 Bar, depending on their edge profile. So clearly not an issue here. Unless you're using a flourosilicone filler, oil will degrade the diaphragm and cause it to leak over time. The standard DV uses a silicone filler, so has little oil resistance. But VAG obviously deemed this to fulfill their life requirements (typically 150k miles for a passenger car). Vibrations can also cause the diaphragm to fret against the piston that it's laid over, causing small leaks over time. Diaphragm actuator failures are mainly leaks, which isn't a major issue in this application. The possbile failure modes of a piston type actuator for this application can have more severe effects. As I already mentioned, if the o-rings are left to run dry they will quickly deteriorate. I have seen o-rings twist in operation and eventually snap, causing leakage and o-ring debris. In this application debris could have serious consequences. One member on here has reported this failure, and required a new turbo as a result. However, most piston actuator failures I have seen are "sticking". The sticking failure is normally enough for the user to inspect/service/replace the part.

I hope I haven't bored you too much, but I wanted to let you know that I don't make unsupported sweeping statements. I'm an Engineer, so I base my statements on fact.

Reference your last comment about the price of the valve, I'd tend to agree, but the opposite way around! The Bosch valve was far more expensive to develop, design, test and approve. So even though the Forge valve costs more to buy, I'd say the Bosch valve is more valuable!