Boost gauge

[Choongmu]

Hi

I've just bought myself a 2bar Tim boost gauge and was looking to fit it this weekend. I hope its alright as im only running a standard map

Unfortunately awsome have sold out of t pieces. Does anyone know where else I can get one of these "no buzz" t pieces and also what diameter tubing I need for it?

Last but not least does anyone know where I can find an idiot proof fitting guide!

Thanks in advance

[Guest BigJase88]

Doesnt surprise me one bit awesomes run out of tackle.... Question is did they ever have any in stock?

T piece is 4mm od

Pipe req is 4mm id.... Doubt you'll be able to find a no buzz one local but a plumbing shop may have a normal 4mm tee

[vrs180]

I've just bought myself a 2bar Tim boost gauge and was looking to fit it this weekend. I hope its alright as im only running a standard map

Last but not least does anyone know where I can find an idiot proof fitting guide!

A 2 bar boost gauge is fine for a std and remapped 1.8t.

Not sure about the idiot proof guide, to date the only guides that I've seen posted on here have been done by idiots for the benefit of other idiots and have all recommend putting a "T" piece into the FPR pipe.

Do the job right, tap into the inlet manifold.

Bill.

[Choongmu]

Cheers for the responses.

I was going to put the t piece on the fpr. Is that not correct then? Tapping into the manifold sounds tricky!

I'll have to look around for a no buzz as I want it doing right rather than just buying any old t piece.

[Dave And Lolli]

A 2 bar boost gauge is fine for a std and remapped 1.8t.

Not sure about the idiot proof guide, to date the only guides that I've seen posted on here have been done by idiots for the benefit of other idiots and have all recommend putting a "T" piece into the FPR pipe.

Do the job right, tap into the inlet manifold.

Bill.

Last count, and this was from my gauge fitting instructions it goes in the pipe from the inlet manifold to the top of the fpr , hence why it's put there. i have had two boost gauges, one went back both from different companies. If you have a picture to show me the correct place that would be great, but so far everyone has put it here like myself. Including Rob, Gee-man and Bowders1 have all plumbed it in here.

Not being funny, but take offence at being called an idiot, when followed the instructions that came with my gauge.

here are a few build threads to give you ideas as to what to do....

http://www.briskoda....oost-gauge-mod/

http://www.briskoda....sleeper-estate/ this one you will need to hunt through and find it, but good to see where to plumb vacuum pipe through and where to get power feed from.

www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk this is robs site for all the mods he has done over the 7 years he has been doing it.

[Guest BigJase88]

Manifold will give best readings but fpr is so simple by the looks of it which i why im going to chose to be an idiot too

[GeeVRSman]

you dont need a no buzz t piece on a 1.8T they are for the diesels.

[Lloyd55vrs]

Idiots win then.... Not to be harsh, but you'll be ****** if im going to drill my manifold

No offence... But if it went wrong

I WOULD BE ****ED !!!!!!

Plus..... Ive been called alot worse

[Bowders1]

A 2 bar boost gauge is fine for a std and remapped 1.8t.

Not sure about the idiot proof guide, to date the only guides that I've seen posted on here have been done by idiots for the benefit of other idiots and have all recommend putting a "T" piece into the FPR pipe.

Do the job right, tap into the inlet manifold.

Bill.

Bill don't know what your problem is but the only time I see you post lately is when you want to post unfriendly and helpful comments.

Seriously there is no need for it.

What happened to your extremely useful/technical approach?. If you don't like what people do, fine but don't be so personal. Perhaps you would kindly create perfect guides and responses to show all us Briskodians the error of our ways. As you clearly think we are all idiots...

[Choongmu]

Dave and Loli. Cheers for those links that exactly what I was after. And if I don't need a no buzz piece I've seen a nice brass one on fleabay. I actually read somewhere that you needed a no buzz one as the engines were prone to it. But if thats not the case then bonus!

Cheers again guys yet again knowledge on here far surpasses anywhere else.

[Dave And Lolli]

Dave and Loli. Cheers for those links that exactly what I was after. And if I don't need a no buzz piece I've seen a nice brass one on fleabay. I actually read somewhere that you needed a no buzz one as the engines were prone to it. But if thats not the case then bonus!

Cheers again guys yet again knowledge on here far surpasses anywhere else.

No worries, to be fair most gauges come with a fitting kit so might not need to buy one anyway. Mine are Glowshift gauges and boost came with it all same as oil pressure got sender et al.

[Bowders1]

Dave and Loli. Cheers for those links that exactly what I was after. And if I don't need a no buzz piece I've seen a nice brass one on fleabay. I actually read somewhere that you needed a no buzz one as the engines were prone to it. But if thats not the case then bonus!

Cheers again guys yet again knowledge on here far surpasses anywhere else.

To confirm buddy you do not really need a n buzz t piece. The kit should come with a t piece anyway(they normally do)

Few pointers on routing of wires and boost pipping.

Most folks get the gauge lighting from the light switch found here(removed from panel

Also there are various routes to take the pipe from inlet manifold/FPR. Some folks take a longer route around the front on engine and alongside inner wing and route through bulkhead.(Think Dave and Loli did this way)

As there are 2 grommets going into bulkhead already from various looms, i used one of these. Main loom goes into left side(washer bottle side) bulkhead under the plastic panel were relay box is. Another grommet is under the right side engine hard to see but is in corner of lower inner way to bulkhead underneath this. The L shape black plastic cable cover is above it

Best way to get to it and see it better is to remove the interior glove box, very simple 4 screws. This will expose the fan and the bulkhead grommet(think just under carpet).

Then I used a straightened coat hanger with the boost gauge pipe taped to it poked it through and then could see it in engine bay.

Here you can see that I covered the pipe in the std plastic cable protector and tidy so as to hide it better

Here you can see it routed under the airflow meter and pipping. So was a more direct route from engine bay to gauge

Your choice though but various ways of attaching it.

Keeps Engine bay clean

[Choongmu]

Jesus that's one shiny engine bay!

[RichieB75]

Hi, just finished doing mine today, except for the idle oddity the wiring is ok, heres the wires i used:

The earth is the far right hand wire.

Fat red one is a perm +12v

And the purple one was a switched and is +12v when the lights are turned on.

You may not need the permanent live, depends on the gauge, but if you do....

(borrowed bowders image, sure he wont mind )