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Boost gauge is in! couple of Q's however...

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Hi all, finally got my gauge in and all seems to be working, couple of Q's though as I am not sure if all is good.....

I disconnected the battery as i had to pull the dash apart to get the vacuum hose thru, now my idle sits around 1500 :(

Whilst putting the T piece onto the hose near the FPR i disconnected one of the black air line pipes and it's being a real sod to put back together, circled in red:

hose1wr.jpg

Would this cause high idle rpm?

And a pic of the gauge at idle:

img0558f.jpg

peaks at around 16 then drops off to around 10ish

but is that looking fine where the needle is at idle?

Many thnx Richie.

Spiking at 16? thats a bit high aint it!

Sorry, i dont know why your rpm is high. did you disconnect your TB connection with the battery still connected?

My boost gauge idles at -20 on idle as its running of the fpr hose.

the concertina line you have circled is the return feed from the SAI - it is only used when engine is warming up (the SAI helps the cat get up to temp quicker)

if you have idling issues after the engine is warm it is NOT this that is causing the issue

  • Author

Well, i didnt touch the TB connection, i just pulled the neg off the battery, last time i touched the TB connection i had to go and get the TB recalibrated :)

As for 16 peak being too high, no idea, but the car is remapped, so that's probably why.

Would fiddling with the vacuum lines cause high idle rpm? if the battery is disconnected dosn't it reset the ecu or something?

Oh well, will keep an eye on it, drives ok. I'll have another go at getting that stupid conector back together anyway,

EDIT: btw i did take the feed from the fpr hose, as many had recommended that as the best place.

Edited by RichieB75

To me sounds as if you have caused it by the removal of a hose. I would recheck what you have removed as if car was ok before fitting the gauge, it should be ok after too.

  • Author

To me sounds as if you have caused it by the removal of a hose. I would recheck what you have removed as if car was ok before fitting the gauge, it should be ok after too.

I was thinking the same thing.....

all i did was cut into the hose to the fpr, and disconnected that big black pipe.

1st up will be that black sai pipe, then go over the other and make sure nothing 'fell off' :)

Well, i didnt touch the TB connection, i just pulled the neg off the battery, last time i touched the TB connection i had to go and get the TB recalibrated :)

As for 16 peak being too high, no idea, but the car is remapped, so that's probably why.

Would fiddling with the vacuum lines cause high idle rpm? if the battery is disconnected dosn't it reset the ecu or something?

Oh well, will keep an eye on it, drives ok. I'll have another go at getting that stupid conector back together anyway,

EDIT: btw i did take the feed from the fpr hose, as many had recommended that as the best place.

if the car is remapped then thats very low in that case. a remapped car should hold 16+ all day long. mine peaks at 19 / 20 ish and holds 18 dropping to 16ish near redline.

Do you have an uprated DV? that may help you hold boost for longer.

  • Author

Remember tho that the 4x4 is base 150 bhp, dunno if that makes any difference :)

Also fixed the high idle probs........ put that big pipe back together after a wrestling match.

For some reason i slipped my foot 'under' the throttle pedal and lifted it up.. it made a little clunk and popped up by about an inch, then the idle dropped down to around 800ish.

Must have got a little stuck when i was under the dash earlier lols

hmm true. tho my AGU and AEB (150bhp) audis were mapped with higher boost. have you got a uprated DV fella?

  • Author

hmm true. tho my AGU and AEB (150bhp) audis were mapped with higher boost. have you got a uprated DV fella?

Yup i fitted the Forge 007 jobby

you can just see it in the first piccy i posted, top right

Edited by RichieB75

yellow spring?

  • Author

pretty sure the yellow is in

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