Updated 25/04/12

I've added a few new part numbers (breather hoses)....

Stage 0 Tune Up

1) Spark Plugs (Check / Replace)

4 x Spark plugs (OEM: 101000063AA/NGK PFR6Q) (Alternatively Bosch FR7KPP33+)

2) Engine Oil + Filters (Replace)

Engine Oil P/No: ZGB115QLB00511 5L Quantum Platinum

Oil filter P/No: 06A115561B

Sump Plug and washer P/No: N90813201

3) Ignition Leads (Check / Replace)

3) Coil packs (Check / Replace)

Skoda are able to do a check and recall on your coilpacks, so check with them before buying any. Free of charge if it meets their criteria - [Thanks Liverpool-Lad].

4) Gear Box Oil (Flush & Replace)

Gearbox oil P/No: G060726A2

5) Air filter (Clean / Replace)

N/A for me, but for info - Air filter P/No: 1J0129620

6) Engine Coolant (Replace)

G12++ Coolant (G012A8GM1 1.5litre x2)

7) Vac Hoses (Check / Replace)

8) 02 Sensors (Check / Replace)

Not required as if faulty will display CEL [Thanks STSKODA]

9) Fuel System + Injectors (Fuel System Cleaner)

Fuel Filter P/no: 1J0 201 511A

10) Turbo, Breather & Intercooler Piping (Check / Clean / Replace)

Upper Breather Hose P/no: 06A 103 221 BH

Lower Breather hose P/No 06A-10302130AF

T-Piece P/No 06A-103-247

Front Breather hose P/No 06A-103-221-BK

Alternatively: Silicone Hoses from www.creationmotorsport.com for less than OEM. [Thanks STSKODA]

11)Throttle body clean

How to link http://www.briskoda....dy-1-8t-engine/

Throttle body gasket P/No: 028 129 748

Carb cleaner

Feel free to recommend any other essential I've missed.

Probably worth mentioning that I've bought it with the following bonus features

Forge DV

Induction kit (Pipercross)

Rear Strut braces

Possibly more - I'm working my way around the car as I get the time...

As far as I know, it's running a Standard Map, but you never know.

Cheers

Bob.

EDITS: Thanks to BigJakk for his useful post in the 'Useful part numbers for Octavia DIY servicing and mods' thread.

Edited 25 April, 201214 yr by BobSmoke

most of you info seems good but

there are no ignition leads, just coilpacks

worth doing the pollen filter replacing for an active carbon one

replacing vacuum or breather hoses is best to use silicone items from creation motorsports (3 piece kit)

also O2 sensor and boost pipework will throw a CEL if soemthign wrong so not much point checking them otherwise

Skoda are able to do a check and recall on your coilpacks, so check with them before buying any. Free of charge if it meets their criteria.

Depending on mileage and history might also be worth doing oil pickup pipe inside sump aswell if its done a few miles or service history is abit sketchy,

Clean leaves and dirt out from behind the front wheel arch liners

Buy a throttle body gasket and give the throttle body a clean

Clean and rinse out any oil and crap in the intercooler

Your rear strut braces are standard if its a hatchback

Just thought I'd check back before I hit the hay. Wow - thanks for the info so far! I'll update the main post tomorrow when I get time.

there are no ignition leads, just coilpacks

Can't believe I missed that one...

replacing vacuum or breather hoses is best to use silicone items from creation motorsports (3 piece kit)

Good pointer - yup, think I'll go down that route. Thanks!

also O2 sensor and boost pipework will throw a CEL if soemthign wrong so not much point checking them otherwise

Fair point. I'm not going to do unnecessary work if I can help it!

Skoda are able to do a check and recall on your coilpacks, so check with them before buying any. Free of charge if it meets their criteria.

Cool - Will ask the question when I take it in to get the Stereo code unlocked..

Depending on mileage and history might also be worth doing oil pickup pipe inside sump aswell if its done a few miles or service history is abit sketchy,

Mines 86k and comes with a full service history so should be ok, but will look through it to see if anything is mentioned about this. Sounds like a pretty big job tho.

Clean leaves and dirt out from behind the front wheel arch liners

Not really a stage 0 tune up, but noted all the same - Thanks!

Buy a throttle body gasket and give the throttle body a clean

Will a good squirt through of wd40 do it? I cleaned the 850 throttle body in an ultrasonic bath, which worked a treat, but was a bit of a PITA!

Clean and rinse out any oil and crap in the intercooler

I'll check out how to do this, but pointers welcome!

Your rear strut braces are standard if its a hatchback

Burst my bubble whydontcha?!

Nice one guys! Cheers!

Edited 16 April, 201214 yr by BobSmoke

The oil pick up is a must. Mine was blocking up at 60k. That's with a oil change every 5k.

I wouldnt use WD40 mate.

Dont unplug it neither, just remove it from the Intake manifold and spray it with carb cleaner and leave to eveporate. dont try start the car till its all gone or you may damage something.

I hope the pX filter isnt a cone one on the MAF? if so get rid mate.

Oil pickups are random, Mine was spot on after 90+k and ive only ever serviced her on the longlife services since new. where some people service them more regular and have had blocked ones? go figure.

you wont know till you remove the sump tho. it is ok apart from 2 bolts iirc that are hidden on the gearbox side iirc.

billy

Burst my bubble whydontcha?!

These should help you with the TB and Intercooler cleaning:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/129943-cleaning-throttle-body-1-8t-engine/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/115290-cleaning-intercooler-mk1-octavia-vrs/

ideally you do need to get a gasket and take the TB right off as it's hard to tell just how dirty it is on the manifold side.

The oil pickup only tends to be a problem on cars where the sump was either fitted badly from the factory or has been removed at some point and refitted badly (e.g. ex police cars which had a reputation for banging sumps), the blockage is usually caused by excess sump sealant dropping into the sump. Mine never had an issue and had done over 140k when I sold it but AFAIK the sump was never removed and refitted.

If you have no record of the pickup pipe being replaced then I would sort it asap.

EDITS: Thanks to BigJakk for his useful post in the 'Useful part numbers for Octavia DIY servicing and mods' thread.

No problem, took me several hours to find all the part numbers one afternoon - so glad it helped.

Regarding spark plugs, the NGK's are reportedly the better of the two - can be had on ebay from reputable sellers for about £10-15 cheaper than from Eurocarparts etc.

As above throttle body clean is a good idea - I used some old brake fluid to clean it up applied via microfibre cloth/cotton buds. As suggested above just left it attached to the car with the electrics only on at the ignition (don't turn the ignition fully on for obvious reasons!), this allows the butterfly valve to be opened and closed at the accelerator pedal, so with two people you can really get it cleaned up well. I would definitely suggest getting a new Gasket for the job, they're pennies from TPS and the old ones can be quite brittle and break when removed (as mine did). Helped with lumpy acceleration at lower revs on mine.

Given that your doing all of of the fluids, brake fluid might be worth renewing - i wouldn't bother with OEM stuff as for the same price can get a higher performing Dot 4 like Castrol Response.

If it has had the cambelt/watet pump etc done recently you probably don't need to do the coolant - Im saving mine for renewal at the next cambelt in two years time.

If your doing the oil change remember to change the sump plug and washer too

Thanks for the comments guys! Main post updated accordingly/where applicable.

I'll think about the pickup pipe. I'm a bit reluctant to tackle dropping the sump ATM but will have a look at it when I get time to get under the car.

Will definetly do a throttle body clean.

@Billy2981 - What's the problem with the cone filter? I'm not sure if it's straight into the MAF (missus has the car ATM) but will look and put a pic up when I get a chance. My gut feeling it's a 'proper' job and not a botch/badly researched mod. The previous owner looks to have taken good car of it from the history. Oh, and Thanks for the pointers on the throttle body clean - I did mean carb cleaner not WD40 (at least in my head I did!).

@Chicken_eyebrow - Many thanks for the links!

Cheers

Bob.

Mines done 87k and ive not done pickup yet but keep meaning to do it altho i do oil and filter every 5k with decent oil,

@Billy2981 - What's the problem with the cone filter? I'm not sure if it's straight into the MAF (missus has the car ATM) but will look and put a pic up when I get a chance. My gut feeling it's a 'proper' job and not a botch/badly researched mod. The previous owner looks to have taken good car of it from the history. Oh, and Thanks for the pointers on the throttle body clean - I did mean carb cleaner not WD40 (at least in my head I did!).

Nothing wrong with cone filter, what Billy means is do not put a cone filter direct to the MAF as this is a no no on the 1.8 turbo cars as these cars suffer heat soak from the hot engine and the cone filter stuck on the end of a MAF will pull in that hot air and make car run less boost. It is not only about owner looking after car but more about what experience users have with the car as well.

Typically folks will either leave std airbox in place and either fit a panel filter and or improve cold air to filter box or get a proper CAI(cold air induction kit) where the is a pipe from MAF to the bumper where the cone filter sits out of the way and heat.

The parts section on the Octy section has lots of P/N and references to help also plus the technical section covers lots of guides.

My DIY guide to Sump pick up pipe...is there too.

this thread. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/191103-vrs-pick-up-pipesuction-pipe-replacement/

Nothing wrong with cone filter, what Billy means is do not put a cone filter direct to the MAF as this is a no no on the 1.8 turbo cars as these cars suffer heat soak from the hot engine and the cone filter stuck on the end of a MAF will pull in that hot air and make car run less boost.

...cue sound of the penny dropping.

Yes, the cone filter in mine is in the engine bay, where the air box should be. Cold air intake pipe is pointing at the filter, but I see what you and Billy mean.

I would have preferred the panel filter option (same as I had in the Volvo) so will have a think about either sourcing a proper CAI or a replacement airbox. Cheers for clarifying that and for the link - doesn't seem all that daunting now!

Cheers

Bob.

Lol cheers Mark,

Yup that's what I meant mate, I have my airbox spare mate if you wanna go that way, ill dig it out. Think I got a spare one too.

Depends on if you want more sound or not,

Or have a look at Wayned thread about a metal surround heat shield for £25 ish?

Billy

Mines done 87k and ive not done pickup yet but keep meaning to do it altho i do oil and filter every 5k with decent oil,

Yeah mine's just rolled over 135k miles, and the pickup has never been touched. I've always used Castrol Edge, so replacing the pickup pipe isn't high on my list of priorities.

Personally I've found the engine to be pretty bomb proof. But then it's treated well.

My list of things to replace to make sure the engine is running as Audi intended would include (all OE parts):

Thermostat

CTS

Plugs

Coilpacks

Entire breather system including valves

Boost hoses

Air filter

Fuel filter

Injector seals (x8)

Correct VAG spec oil

Coolant

Aux drive belt

Cambelt

DV

Personally I'd try to keep the engine as standard as possible, as they're much easier to live with. Although the temptation of a remap is almost impossible to resist!!

...I have my airbox spare mate if you wanna go that way, ill dig it out. Think I got a spare one too.

Awesome. What would you want for it mate?

Ordered one of these last night

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-OCTAVIA-AIR-FILTER-INDUCTION-KIT-AIR-PIPEj-gv-/150799690745?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D180861536393%252B180861536393%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7813258178267839281

I'm planning on using it to route the cone filter to the correct position. If I decide don't like the noise, I can always use it as a fresh air intake into an original airbox instead (following a bit of airbox surgury!) and fit a performance panel filter. At £15 it's not going to break the bank.

Also got some Silicone vac hose on order as that was pennies too. More major pipes (Turbo, Cooling etc.) will have to wait till next month as I've been galavanting around the country this month and blown most of my disposable cash on petol duty

Cheers.

Bob.

Ill have a look at weekend mate and see what I have and let you have it cheap if you want it.

Billy

Just recieved and fitted the replacement breather hose. Typically it was the first thing I ordered and the last thing to be delivered, but ho hum...

Here's the old one...

And here's the new!

Can't really tell if it's made much difference as I've only done a short spin but I'm expecting to see better mpg figures next week (only getting 27-28mpg on the trip computer after driving to/from work last week).

Lower breather hose looks ok, but will replace that too for piece of mind once payday comes.

Did you get a blanking plate with that Forge DV? I'd fit that on the side instead of the air horn so its running fully recirculating. They can throw a fault code if they're running half and half, particularly if its remapped.

also mate, soon as you get the std air box back on youll notice much better MPG.

I will go out to shed now and have a look for you if I got one. Just woke up lol, long night work.

Did you get a blanking plate with that Forge DV? I'd fit that on the side instead of the air horn so its running fully recirculating. They can throw a fault code if they're running half and half, particularly if its remapped.

No blanking plug sadly, it was already fitted when I bought it. To be honest, I'd like to get rid of the horn as the 'psssht' as I shift is a bit too chavvy for my tastes. Any idea where I can get one from? Google search has drawn a blank (no pun intended). No fault codes (as yet at least - fingers xx'ed!), so guess it's on a standard map after all :( She's still bloody quick tho

On that point, is there any way to check if its been mapped without taking it to someone? I'm looking to get the Torque app and a bluetooth OBD adaptor soon to check boost levels etc - what tell tales should I look for?

also mate, soon as you get the std air box back on youll notice much better MPG. I will go out to shed now and have a look for you if I got one. Just woke up lol, long night work.

Sweet mate. Let me know if you do & how much - I'm very much interested!

Cheers guys, I'm really appreciative of your help and advice.

Bob.

How far is to and from work? And what sorta roads? Just done a road trip, over 1k miles and I wasn't hanging about on the lovely country roads in Scotland plus the trip there and back and got just over 38mpg. Made me fall in love with the car again lol

Usual working week sees 34mpg usually town work

Oh and with the torque app if you get the full version the boost pressure will tell you if its been remapped can't remember the figures

From what I've read on other posts, a Std Map should produce 9 - 11psi on boost. Ordered a ELM327 dongle yesterday. Bit fustrated as I deliberately went for a UK seller, only to find they're actually based in China and delivery is 8-10 days. Oh well.

I do about 25 miles to and from work, mostly motorway in the morning and A-roads on the way back (I like the scenic route when I'm not in a rush). The Octy is definetly running better since replacing that breather pipe. Got 37mpg on the way home the other day, which is a significant improvement. Real test will be the next couple of weekends when we go down to York & N Wales.

Edited 25 April, 201214 yr by BobSmoke