just linking to another thread i started...

really want to get this sorted. started to P%^& me off lately,

with the better weather, ive been tryin to keep the car clean and looking well.

so, if anybody has any thoughts or ideas...

Only thing to do is sand back and re-clear the panel!

mmm.... i dunno how confident id be doing that!

It's not actually too bad.

Wet & dry, proper clean... Including an alcohol wipe... remember to properly mask everywhere you DON'T want your lacquer to go... Grab yourself a tin of clear lacquer... Tip: Put lacquer into a bowl of warm (not boiling) water. Shake the can a lot... Shake it a lot more... Shake it a LOT more... Then spray a light dusting. Put back into warm bowl to keep warm, wait for lacquer to dry a bit... Repeat until you get plenty of lacquer down. Plenty of light coats is the key, making sure that between each coat of lacquer it is spotless.

Once you've built 3-4 coats of lacquer up, leave it to harden for a week, then get yourself some rubbing compound to gently blend it into your existing paint.

Job done

As Chris said basically!

If it's a small, contained panel, like a wing, 1,500 then 2,500 wet & dry over the the whole panel, you want to aim to rub off any lose clear coat and make sure the surface is smooth. Wipe dust off then wipe panel with panel wipe. Mask off the panel, light dusting of clear, leave 20 minutes. Then spray 3-4 thicker coats, but don't allow it to run. Most modern spray clears are good to sand/polish in 24 hours.

After this you should have a fairly shiny panel with no clear coat damage.To refine it more, 2,500 grit wet and dry then compound polish to bring a much deeper shine.

Re-clear coating is easy, just got to be careful with the sanding

And as with all rattle cans... If you keep them warm (not hot) it thins the paint/lacquer out and makes it stick and dry better - so less chance of running (though if you keep the coats thin, you reduce that chance anyway!) - if you do get a run, don't panic - you can either get an alcohol wipe and gently wipe it off before it dries, or you can wait for it to harden and then flat it back with wet & dry and go again.

I should _really_ post a how-to with some pictures as I start tidying mine up. Lol!

I did above with my front bumper as it was peeling the clear coat, not 100% but looks a dam site better

Might see if i can get a broken/bent panel somewhere to practice on first... give it a go, see what happens!!

thanks for info guys, i was hoping there might be a way to avoid the sanding and rubbing. other than paying someone to do it..

been googling paint correction, curiosity really. one crowd seem to only use Zymol product, which seems to be stocked by Halfrauds... any body use this stuff? any good? for wax shampoo etc

hows about : http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_804661_langId_-1_categoryId_212504#tab1

A standard clay bar is for cleaning - it'll not repair flaking clear coat.

If you're lacking confidence... You can find pretty much anything to paint.

If it helps... I originally started out painting PC cases to some epic finishes as a 'case modder' - maybe you have an old PC case you could practice on?

Phone up a local respray company and find out what it would cost to repaint the whole panel.

If the cost is acceptable to you get the sandpaper and have a go yourself. Worst comes to worst you pay them to sort it out.

I m looking at clays for the car in general, sort of, post peel fixing...

I'll find something to work on, and get the confidence up.

If it really comes to it, i have a distant cousin tha trained up as an aircraft painter...

I'll track him down and see what he could do for costs and beer tokens