as title i want one of these can you buy them or do i have to get mine sprayed?

Take it off and paint it. Search for Black Grille, there are a few threads with photos of how it comes apart.

Mine:

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/BlackGrille.htm

nice one, will have a go at it today

Paint will eventually chip,

I used plasti-dip spray! No prep required! Just spray on! Plus its completely reversible too!

Ive had mine on for 5k now and still prestine

@Big Jase

That's without the glossifier, right? Looks good!

Glossifier?

Just black plasti-dip spray! Took a couple of hours rather than a couple of days prep and spray

Its really simple! The end effect is flawless and last without chipping!?

im confused what all the worry is about with the painted grilles chipping? it wont chip any worse than any of the surrounding areas that have been painted, or am i missing the point and the grille is somehow a magnet for stones? lol

correct prep, and painted with a decent quality base and clear, and it will be fine. and no way does it take days to do so! mine was out, prepped, based and cleared, and back in within an afternoon

I re-did mine as it was covered in stone chips. So is my bonnet, bumper, A pillars, windscreen and roof. Damn NZ roads!

im confused what all the worry is about with the painted grilles chipping? it wont chip any worse than any of the surrounding areas that have been painted, or am i missing the point and the grille is somehow a magnet for stones? lol

correct prep, and painted with a decent quality base and clear, and it will be fine. and no way does it take days to do so! mine was out, prepped, based and cleared, and back in within an afternoon

Exactly. Properly keyed, and with decent quality paints (and not the first thing you see at Halfords) results in top jobs. Never had a single issue with my V40 grille in 7 years, having done it myself. And no issues as yet with the Octy either.

Glossifier?

Just black plasti-dip spray! Took a couple of hours rather than a couple of days prep and spray

Its really simple! The end effect is flawless and last without chipping!?

The Glossifier is a Plastidip product that's suppose to leave a glossy finish over your plastidip finish.

I was just checking. Didn't think you had used it.

I re-did mine as it was covered in stone chips. So is my bonnet, bumper, A pillars, windscreen and roof. Damn NZ roads!

I can confirm that in NZ they like to leave loose stones all over their roads when they work on them

I don't know if it was coincidence, but when I was there it seemed like there were endless roadworks being done and the loose stones they spread everywhere certainly aren't bodywork friendly.

... Damn NZ roads!

I can confirm that in NZ they like to leave loose stones all over their roads when they work on them

Just like Devon then

And Oxfordshire...

+1 for Plastidip. First did mine in Black magic with proper and careful preparation. Keyed grill then primed base coated then lacquered. Flatted between coats looked excellent but still chipped ! So thanks to Porkballs nabbed his leftover can of Plastidip. A quick rub down of the chipped grill then three coats of the stuff leaving 30 mins between. Job done !

Mine is painted and requires touching up every 2 months

Sent from my GT-I9100. Not a Crapple!

A mate of mine did mine, he is a smart repairer so it's done right and that doesn't chip, sanding the chrome right back is the key.

Just remove the chrome from the grill surround to get to the plastic and paint onto that. No issues as paint will stick better to plastic than chrome!

Just been to halfords and picked up wet and dry, plastic primer and matt black paint. Will put a picture up if it comes out ok

I'll give you all a tip if you're painting anything externally facing, like wheels/grilles/etc.

Don't use lacquer.

Use polyurethane.

Lacquer is too brittle and will chip easily. Polyurethane clear is more durable, and still allows that glossy/semi gloss polished effect.

Paint chips no matter the prep!

Plasti-dip takes a 10th of the time to do and doesnt chip whatsoever!!!

Did my other half vw badge 10k ago and its like new

Paint chips no matter the prep!

Complete BS, I'm afraid. But then I used to paint for a living, and had access to quality 2 pk poly's, and other aircraft finishes. I still have decent materials, but sadly no longer have a spray booth, gun wash, or baking oven. If you have patience, the RIGHT materials, and know what you're doing, it's not an issue. Building up layers without allowing proper curing time however, is bound to chip.

Complete BS, I'm afraid. But then I used to paint for a living, and had access to quality 2 pk poly's, and other aircraft finishes. I still have decent materials, but sadly no longer have a spray booth, gun wash, or baking oven. If you have patience, the RIGHT materials, and know what you're doing, it's not an issue. Building up layers without allowing proper curing time however, is bound to chip.

Really so could you please tell me why my bonnet and front bumper are stone chipped? Maybe cause paint does actually chip to a degree??

What im saying is.... Plastidip wont chip whatsoever unlike paint

Complete BS, I'm afraid..

You can produce a paint finish that won't chip ???

All those car manufacturers must be amateurs then.....

sent from my phone....

You can produce a paint finish that won't chip ???

All those car manufacturers must be amateurs then.....

sent from my phone....

I built up the layers on my grill took 3 days to complete had no stone chips and had minimal damage to the grill when i hit someone, prep and patience is key!

I built up the layers on my grill took 3 days to complete had no stone chips and had minimal damage to the grill when i hit someone, prep and patience is key!

Yep. Spot on.

The polys are brilliant stuff now and a lot more durable than straight up lacquer because it's not as brittle.

Obviously if you've only got access to rattle cans, even rustoleum polyurethane is better than halfords lacquer... I'm using it on my wheels and it's spot on.

Key points are allowing time for curing between coats. A lot of cans will say you can apply coats 20 mins between each other, but that's ridiculous. I leave at least an hour between colour coats, then 24 hours for each coat of lacquer/poly, with 2500 grit W&D between each coat and properly cleaned up. Then once my last coat goes on... I leave it for a week at the bare minimum to harden... Before I even consider the last 2500/3000 grit and polish... Then seal it with some hard wax.

The results are very durable and there's not much difference in depth nowadays between poly and lacquer.

And to answer a previous point... Our stock paint is actually pretty poor and rushed on, with relatively cheap lacquer. Mass production for you.