Vrs cutting out at ignition

[O.B-B]

Hi all,

The other day my car was cutting out when I turned it on. It would run for a few seconds and then would just die. The battery warning light would then come on.

If I revved the engine hard and got the car moving it seemed to be ok. 6 year old car, not sure when if the battery had ever been changed. So I'm thinking a new battery was needed.

Managed to get to local Halfords in the car and purchased a new battery and had it fitted. Car started first time; job down. Or so I thought...... :think:

Today I went to start the car for the first time since arriving back from my Halfords trip. Same fault, engine dies after a few seconds and the battery warning light comes on. So unless i got stung with buying a duff new battery (which I doubt) then it must be something-else.

My garage want me to bring the car in next week. The tech I spoke to seemed to think it could be an alternator fault. However Im not sure because if i get the car moving by revving it hard and then driving it for a bit it seems to be ok.

Indeed I drove it to work tonight and I stopped off on the way to do some shopping. When I returned to the car it started first time. I'm thinking that the problem only manifests itself once the car has been unused for a few hours/days. If so then when I go to start it up tomorrow morning (i'm on a night shift tonight) then it won't start again.

I'm also thinking that if I drive it to the garage next week then they won't be able to replicate the fault as it will probably start every time for them (as I have driven it there in the first place)! Anyone got any ideas what it could be? Cheers in advance for any replies.

[xpower]

If the car cuts (or you stop it by stalling it) out then the battery light will come on as normal, it just informs you that there isn't sufficient charge coming out of the alternator, duh it's stopped spinning lol.

Could be the alternator but TBH it's a long shot (very long shot from your description, although we may not have the full symptoms )

I would hazard a guess at idle air control valve, or something related to controlling idle speed, as you say you can rev it and it will keep going.

Let us know how you get on.

[O.B-B]

Yeah I will let you know what happens. Another possibility that has been mentioned to me is a fault with the throttle body which could mean that its not getting enough fuel at ignition due to a blockage. Air leaks on the engine hoses is another suggestion I got from another forum.

All of the above sound expensive which is the real pain, particularly as I just shelled out for a new battery

[O.B-B]

An update:

After my night shift the car started first time with no problems. That was after having been sat parked for 16 hours (which kind of blows my theory out of the water :think:). Am at a loss as to what to do now.

[rwbaldwin]

Sounds like an immo problem. The car runs for three seconds and then stops. If it happens again, check that the key symbol has gone out.

[xpower]

Sounds like an immo problem. The car runs for three seconds and then stops. If it happens again, check that the key symbol has gone out.

Good idea, doesn't the immo on these prevent starting though?

Not 100% sure on this model, try using your second Key / Fob

[rwbaldwin]

Good idea, doesn't the immo on these prevent starting though?...

No - it runs for 3 seconds and then stops.

[O.B-B]

Update again on this thread:

Tonight I got the AA to come out and take a look at the car. First time I have had to call them in 4 years so I thought it was about time I got my moneys-worth.

Nice chap came and plugged in his PDA. The error message that was recurring was for low fuel pressure. In short the fuel pump is knackered. When the engine was running he pointed out that you could hear it grinding periodically from just in front of the rear wheels.

Apparently its not a huge deal but it will cost me a couple of hundred quid for a new one

So I'm trying to remain philosophical about the whole thing; it could have been a lot worse and at least now I can put my mind at rest .

Just got to arrange the recovery to the dealership now.

[a_gris]

Hello,

decided to continue this post as it's description "The other day my car was cutting out when I turned it on. It would run for a few seconds and then would just die. The battery warning light would then come on." almost perfectly fits my problem.

I own Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0 (2009) and it also shuts off just a few seconds after the start. The only addition is that also Engine Management Warning Light turns on.

I will try to get and post the fault code tomorrow

 

But until that - has anyone had similar problem? Would like to know what was the problem?

I'm a bit worried that the service will take the "let's change everything approach" when trying to fix this.

[Brigy]

On 04/05/2020 at 20:58, a_gris said:

Hello,

decided to continue this post as it's description "The other day my car was cutting out when I turned it on. It would run for a few seconds and then would just die. The battery warning light would then come on." almost perfectly fits my problem.

I own Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0 (2009) and it also shuts off just a few seconds after the start. The only addition is that also Engine Management Warning Light turns on.

I will try to get and post the fault code tomorrow

 

But until that - has anyone had similar problem? Would like to know what was the problem?

I'm a bit worried that the service will take the "let's change everything approach" when trying to fix this.

I had the same problem with my octavia mk2 tdi but came up with a p0061 code which is the crank sensor so I’ve changed the sensor which are about £23  all right for a couple of hours but started  to go back to cutting out again when turned over so think now it’s a fuel problem......

[a_gris]

@Brigy I'm quite sure you meant code P0016. I had exactly the same.
Changing camshaft and crankshaft sensors did not help. The problem was back after a few weeks or so after changing the sensors.

 

For me it turned out that toothed crankshaft pulley were worn out. Event with tightened screw it caused timing belt to be out of sync which caused P0016.

Replaced the old one with new pulley, glued it to crankshaft and tightened more than required by specifications.

 

I was told by official service center that it's second case like that in their experience.

 

It has been a month since got it fixed, and the car is fine. Anyway, thinking of selling it. Starting the car with a little frustration if the problem will be back.