Hi Guys,

While pulling out the dipstick, the long probe broke off inside. I can't see any trace of it to grab it. Will it be ok to leave it in there and just buy a new one? or is there a way to get it out?

Ro.

I assume you mean the long flexible metal wire with the plastic scale on the end?

You literally just have the oranged looped end with the rubber seal on it left?

I personally wouldn't be happy knowing that it has dropped down into the sump and then leaving it there, I'd also imagine it may be difficult to then squeeze a replacement dipstick down there with the old one in the way...

Yes, exactly.... the long flexible wire with the plastic scale on the end.... all i have left is the hooped handle...

I can see no sign of it where i could maybe pinch it and pull out....

Is it possible to remove it from underneath?

I am taking the car to the garage Thursday and wanted some possible solutions before I went.

Remove the holder or sump off job.

Edited 24 July, 201213 yr by 07 vRS Taxi

Long shot but you could try this - get a length of curtain wire (you know, hollow, coiled metal with plastic sheath) very gently feed this down the dipstick tube whilst rotating clockwise. Then after about 9" are down there pull it up gently at an angle to the neck of the tube. It might just be enough to trap the end of the dipstick and pull it back up.

Not saying it's going to work but worth a try. Only danger is pushing it further down the tube and into the sump. So might be a not so good idea after all. I know on the older Golf engine block the dipstick tube was an interference fit into the block, so a good hard pull and you could sometimes get the tube out. The replacement had to be tapped back in. If you can get the tube out then you'd be able to get at the stick.

What have you tried so far?

Haven't tried anything yet... thought I would ask here first - didn't really want to stick anything else down there yet until i had some advice.

Any chance its magnetic? Would need to be a strong magnet mind!

Get your vacuum cleaner hose bit and some other hose that goes down the dipstick opening. Tape the hose to your vacuum and place the other hose in the the opening, turn on vacuum and dipstick might be drawn up. It worked on my civic lol.

Or

Get a long thin hollow stick like a straw, and some dental floss. Make a noise from the dental floss and feed in down th stick, feed e stick down dipstick tube with the noose open, pull noose closed when at bottom of dipstick tube and hope for the best.

Or

Can the dipstick tube be removed?

I would of thought removing the dipstick tube would be easier.

Could you try one of those extendable tubes with a magnet in the end. I picked one up from Tesco for 2 quid and its a small strong magnet on the end of an extendable tube like an old radio aerial. Invaluable for picking up screws and the like that you drop into places you can't get yr hands into.

Try inserting it slowly till it catches and pull up, assuming of course the oil doesn't change the magnetic properties, or there's some plastic left on the top of the broken dipstick.

Adam

The dipstick tube can be removed. My dipstick tube broke once and the dealer just pulled out the other half with pliers and fixed another one in the slot (without any glue or fastner). So I am assuming the tube can come out easily.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I tried the idea of the net curtain wire, but no joy.

The mechanic in the garage has opened it up now but can find no trace of it. Looking very much now as if it had been previously broken by somebody and just the handle put back.

Very annoying as only the garage and myself has ever checked and added oil before.

Well then hopefully they'll be replacing it free of charge for you then!

The dipstick funnel broke off whilst fitting a new thermostat (just knocked it and it broke at the base). Any advice as to how to replace. My understanding is the bit at the bottom will pull out and a new one pushed on. Is this the case or is there a hidden screw somewhere!?

Also, after replacing the stat, I can get it to temp but it only blows hot air at higher revs when stationary. I'm guessing that the heater matrix may have air in it. If so, any suggestions as to how to bleed the system thorougly. I've left the reservoir cap off and put the heating on full so far.

They are just a pushfit, but they can be a bit of a game to get out in one peice without them breaking up from age and possibly dumping debris down the hole.

The one on my caddy broke and I didn't trust the rest of the tube to come out, so I sleeved a bit of pipe onto it, pushed the broken bit back in and stuck a pair of jubilee clips on. Not an amazing solution, but it kept it going forwards.

11 minutes ago, StevesTruck said:

They are just a pushfit, but they can be a bit of a game to get out in one peice without them breaking up from age and possibly dumping debris down the hole.

The one on my caddy broke and I didn't trust the rest of the tube to come out, so I sleeved a bit of pipe onto it, pushed the broken bit back in and stuck a pair of jubilee clips on. Not an amazing solution, but it kept it going forwards.

Cheers, much appreciated. I did think about the sleeving option - what did you use as a sleeve?

In any event I've ordered a replacement. I'll pack the hole with a rag and try to ease the remainder out with long nosed pliers.

Probably a random bit of rubber hose. Not the best idea because oil will break it up over time.... but it was a £300 van

Nice one. At the moment, I've got a bit of rubber hose stuffed in there with a plastic cap jammed into it. Will stop any oil for now so the car can be used. My Octy's worth about a grand, so not wanting to spend a fortune on it.

Any thoughts on bleeding the cooling system so my heater works properly? Hot at higher revs, cools off at lower revs with engine at 90C. Top rad hose is hot, bottom is cool so thermostat is working fine.

What engine's in it? Have you eliminated it being a leak anywhere, EGR cooler or head gasket failure?

Sorted mate - air lock in heater matrix. Funny, I've been driving for 50 years and never had a thermostat or head gasket failure (nor EGR cooler). Temp is now bang on 90C, and vents push through hot air at all engine speeds. Looks like the old stat had had its day after 180,000m and 18 years.

Engine's a BXE.

Quick question on the plastic dipstick funnel - why is there an L shaped tab on it??

Re removal of broken funnel.

In order to prevent bits of broken funnel disappearing down the tube, I left in the rubber hose with plastic bung (used the cap off a clean sealant cartridge nozzle). Because I couldn't get pliers on it, and wanted to avoid marmalising it any further, I then got a hooked piece of thick wire, and pulled on the L shaped tab as near to the broken tube as possible. After a few goes, the internal remnants shot out in one piece (thanks to the rubber hose/bung keeping things together), with just the outer left. This just peeled off easily.

I've done my best to shove the new one on as tight as I can get it. It seems to have located on the collar of the metal tube ok. Will have to see if it decides to stay on after a few runs??