After about 6 months of waiting I managed to get a Lee Big Stopper 10 stop ND filter. Took a bit of getting use to but finally got it sorted and I must say I’m delighted with the results. These were take over the most couple of weeks at a local beach most used the Big Stopper all used Lee ND grads.

Perfect Night at Parton 2 by mrhmclean, on Flickr

IMG_6670 by mrhmclean, on Flickr

IMG_7183 by mrhmclean, on Flickr

IMG_7184my by mrhmclean, on Flickr

IMG_7208 by mrhmclean, on Flickr

IMG_6382no by mrhmclean, on Flickr

Edited 30 July, 201213 yr by harryweld

Nice one, where are these rocks?! I have the B&W ten stop ND filter but nothing really to use it on! Well, I used it at inflection falls with good results, but I really want to do the traditional 'rocks in the sea' thing like this, but there are no rocks round here!

Looking good, cant beat an ND filter

I've been trying to take pictures like this for ages. :(

But I haven't got a clue to be honest. What would be the way in which you'd suggest to do it? And what exactly is the filter?

The filter is the essential part, you can't do it without an SLR and an ND filter, the denser the better! But be prepared to shell out for a ten stop! It's effectively a long exposure, where the water is moving. That is all!

Nice one, where are these rocks?! I have the B&W ten stop ND filter but nothing really to use it on! Well, I used it at inflection falls with good results, but I really want to do the traditional 'rocks in the sea' thing like this, but there are no rocks round here!

Looking good, cant beat an ND filter

Its a place called Parton in Cumbria looking across the Solway towards Scotland. I'm quite lucky as its only about a mile from my house. I just check the tide and sunset times on line and as long as the tide is going out I go down there and just follow the tide out shooting as I go. I’m starting to learn the area quite well so know the best points when the tide is at a particular height. You can always try landscape shots so you get Ghost Clouds, would have worked well at the Abbey if the clouds had been thinner.

I've been trying to take pictures like this for ages. :(

But I haven't got a clue to be honest. What would be the way in which you'd suggest to do it? And what exactly is the filter?

For a start you need a tripod, a DSLR and preferably a cable release. They are done by using very long exposure times from around 30 seconds but can run into hours, hence the tripod and cable release. The long exposures have the effect of smoothing the waves out and giving them that milky misty appearance, some of these were taken when there was 3 foot waves coming in. There are three options for this kind of shot.

1. A 10 stop ND filter. Which is a filter so dark you can hardly see through it unless you are looking at a strong light? It has the effect of extending what would have been a 1/30 sec exposure to around 35 seconds; some of the shots on here took 8 minutes. The filters are expensive you are looking at £60 to £100. Then if you don’t use filters already you need adapter rings and filter holders etc.

2. Wait until it’s a clear night with very little cloud and goes out then if you stop your lens down enough then you will get the long exposures needed. Heres a couple I took a while ago just to try it out.

IMG_3557 by mrhmclean, on Flickr

IMG_3556 by mrhmclean, on Flickr

3. This is a cheap option, Google “Welding Glass Photography”. Here you use a welding glass in front of the lens (making sure you have a UV filter on in case of accidents). You need to shoot in RAW and use Photoshop to remove the strong colour cast and the Glass quality is not up to photographic standards but as a cheap option or for a trial it worth a go. Just be careful you don’t damage your lens.

Edited 30 July, 201213 yr by harryweld

I will have to try harder in looking out for rocks. I keep forgetting if I'm honest :( I'm not so fond of the cloud movement effect, just makes it look blurry to me. Water all the way! Lol

I will have to try harder in looking out for rocks. I keep forgetting if I'm honest :( I'm not so fond of the cloud movement effect, just makes it look blurry to me. Water all the way! Lol

If you look at the one above that was taken early one morning long before the sun was up and the white lines around the roof are rhe clouds. Yon need clear skys with little cloud to get the best effect, as you say overcast skys just look blurred

Thanks for that thats exactly what I needed to know. I knew it wouldn't be as easy as just having a lens with long exposure and decent F stop. Haha.

I shall keep an eye out for an ND filter. Thanks again!

Apparently I can't edit posts so to add to that i've already got the tripod too. Just obviously thought it being dark would be enough for it to work!

Fantastic pictures and a lovely bit of insight too. Thanks very much

That is a great effect very well executed. Love 'em. And thanks for the instructions.

As a low cost option could you use 2 polarising filters? If you had a linear polariser in front of a circular polariser then by changing the relative angles you could cut out a major percentage of the light. Wouldn't be much good for getting reflection off water mind!!

I have a 2 stop ND, 2 circular and 1 linear polariser - time for a play! Only trouble is the linear is a different (larger) size to the circulars... maybe a stepper ring.

I will have to try harder in looking out for rocks. I keep forgetting if I'm honest :( I'm not so fond of the cloud movement effect, just makes it look blurry to me. Water all the way! Lol

Funny. I'm the other way round. I love the effect on the clouds but have seen the smooth water too often now.

Another (cheaper) option with a slightly different effect overall (but keeping the long exposure) is to get a pinhole adapter for your SLR.

Cost is about £10-15 IIRC.

As a low cost option could you use 2 polarising filters? If you had a linear polariser in front of a circular polariser then by changing the relative angles you could cut out a major percentage of the light. Wouldn't be much good for getting reflection off water mind!!

That's pretty much how all the Variable ND filters work ( http://singh-ray.com/varind.html et al )

The 2 filter trick works!

I have a 58mm circular polariser that screws into my 28-105 lens. I have a 72mm linear polariser that wedges nicely into the EW-63 tulip lens hood and still allows easy access and rotation of the filter element.

With no filters on the lens, the scene out of my living room window is ISO200 1/100th at F/5. Then with the CPL on and the LPL rotated to maximum darkness it goes to 20 seconds at f/5. I make that an 11 stop change.

Just have to find something to photograph now :think: