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HELP! Top mount bolt keeps spinning!

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Tried removing my front strut brace, one bolt was very stiff but kept at it, started shifting then suddenly the bolt kept spinning (felt like it had skipped a thread)

now it doesn't tighten or come loose

can I still drive the car?

Its only just had new top mounts fitted (few months back)

: (

what can be done? roughly how much to fix?

any help would be great

cheers

You can try and grip it from the wheelarch with mole grips - I had no success.

I drilled it out and fitted a new Top Mount. Did you buy genuine top mounts?

Adam

It happened to my polo, the weld that holds the threaded nut to the mount came loose.

It's still drivable, just a pain in the arse to fix.

I had a garage take care of it, strip it down, re-weld an refit.

  • Author

They were from GSF I think

seems like a common problem, I tried searching but clearly not with the right key words

another thing on the 'to do list'

thanks guys

  • Author

If anyone is local and handy with a spanner, I have some money waiting :bandit:

It's a common issue because people cross thread them when fitted especially if a brace is fitted as the brace is pre loaded and doesn't line up perfectly with the hole.

  • Author

does this mean I have to try avoid speed bumps and potholes due to the suspension being somewhat slightly unstable?

is this the correct part I need?

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/457vg0080

thanks peeps

The bolt is still in there and the other two are tought so I wouldn't panic. I'd go steady for sure though.

  • Author

Yeah true say, ok mate will do

Common problem!

New top mount req. its fine to drive i drove around on 2 for like 6 months! Lol my bolt sheared

  • Author

Now I'm under the impression to leave the brace off if this is going to happen each time I want to drain the catch can and clean the air filter. What a joke!

Are uprated versions available?

move the catch can.

Now I'm under the impression to leave the brace off if this is going to happen each time I want to drain the catch can and clean the air filter. What a joke!

Are uprated versions available?

If you don't cross thread the bolt or over tighten it you should be fine.

Now I'm under the impression to leave the brace off if this is going to happen each time I want to drain the catch can and clean the air filter. What a joke!

Are uprated versions available?

Standard spannering rules apply...

Fit the bolts and screw them in by hand.

Don't tighten any bolts until they are all in.

Or snap the nut off and use a normal nut and bolt

When I fitted my strut brace I thoroughly copper slipped the nuts before

refitting them. They came out no probs when I took it off after 2+ years.

Got Mike B to thank for that little tip.

  • Author

thanks for all the help guys, I have messaged my local VAG specialist. Just waiting for it to be fixed soon

If you have a dremel or similar, you could try cutting a slot in the top of the bolt. That may provide enough purchase to loosen and/or tighten it.

  • Author

some great input and help, many thanks for them all, really appreciate it

will I need spring compressors when fitting the top mounts, I'm running on Hicon GT coilovers 3/4 years old

I was hoping it wouldn't be necessary?

No you could release tension by dropping the adjuster right down, providing it hasn't seized!

Don't forget to mark up where they were also.

  • Author

Iv never dealt with coilovers lol, once the adjuster is down all the way, does this enable the spring to move freely and therefore enabling it to be taken out?

Also will there be any tools required when winding the adjusters back up? I think C spanners are required but I don't have any : (

Are there any alternatives options? I hear the adjusters are made from plastic and sometimes fail to grip accordingly

It loosens them enough for there to be movement and slacken springs, but you can't remove the spring by simply dropping the adjustor.

The springs sit on an shoe that is adjustable via threaded strut. As pictured here (blue adjustor that the spring sits on).

Coilovers.jpg?timestamp=1304514810985

Have a read here for procedure and tools needed:

http://www.fabia-vrs.com/technical-info/eibach-25mm-suspension-fit/

Essentials are spline tool and hub spreader (as these are not usually included in regular tools kits). Don't under estimate the hub spreader tool, it'll kill you if you don't prepare for it.

When i fitted my coil overs with a mate, we took the whole assembly out, and whacked a 10mm bolt into the hub to split it. I dunno how doable this would be with the hub on the car though.

  • Author

ahh ok that helps explain a lot, thanks mate

think I'll leave this to the pro's, defo a lot harder than I had initially imagined

  • 8 years later...

Hi Guys, my 2012 New Beetle had the same problem!

 

My opinion is that the issue here is the silly, rediculous, rubbish design which is no where near adequate to stop these bolts spinning when the so called captive nuts break away from the top mount. Not only do the welds break but the nuts, which do have 13mm flats on, them are not accessible. They protrude down about 1mm and are too close to the springs to get a socket on. Whats the point of having flats if you cant make use of them and why the hell are the welds so rubbish. If the welds did the job end of story. The real cause of the problem is not overtightening but corrosion of the bolts where the thread protrudes down into the wheel arch. Obviously it does help not to overtighten the bolts but once the bolts get corroded its very likely that you will have a problem with the welds breaking.

 

Anyway the solution is to drill the bolts out. Put a spanner on them to stop the drill spinning them and then centre puch the centre of the bolt head and drill a hole slightly wider than the diameter of the bolt thread, starting with a pilot hole and gradually widening it out. Its very effective if your drills are sharp and not old and blunt. You will then need to fit a new strutt top mount/bearing as any welds which have not already broke will likely do so when you come to tighten them up. You will also need to fit new bolts to replace those you have drilled out. They are not too expensive and its not a bad idea to replace them to avoid getting the common knocking noise due to bearing wear. Hope this helps.

 

Best wishes Ian.  

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