Cruise control problems

[Joshb26]

Hi

Im trying to fit cruise control to my vRS and have bought the kit from skoda which is the loom and stalk, noticed when trying to fit it that to get to the T11a connector is near impossible without removing the dash. I know the other method is to run a wire straight into the ECU but do i still use the loom that i got from skoda and just extend the white wire that should plug in the T11a?

Cheers Josh

[mattievrs]

Yeah extend the white wire and run it through the bulk head behind the glvebox

[Tech1e]

Pin 14 on the ECU, the only single white wire in the larger of the two plugs.

[vRSAnt]

You can do it by basically breaking down the dash to get to the PIN out on the bulk head but it was a major ball ache

I did mine only weeks old while it was still under warranty ! Madness lol

It kinda pulls and slides down like drawers and once you got a lot of the stuff out the way you can see the connectors

Probably easier to do it in the ECU !

[Sizey1980]

Interested in doing this myself, how much is it?

[Tech1e]

Kit is around £60 ish and of course need VCDS to turn on.

[Sizey1980]

Sorry? VCDS? What's that?

[Tech1e]

VCDS, VAG COM, diagnostic software.

[Sizey1980]

Is that a DIY or dealer?

[Tech1e]

There is a whole section on here devoted to it.

[tech838]

You can get to the T11a connector by removing the relay carrier and electrical control box,

I must admit I found this easier than running a new wire, and its as it would be from the factory as well.

Saves messing around with the ECU connector as well the wires in there are painfully thin.

Edited 18 August, 2012 by tech838

[Tech1e]

Not as easy when you find the wire isn't in T11a.

I'd argue running a wire is actually better. There is a reason on Fabia II that connection point isn't there anymore.

[tech838]

No its T11b sorry, Pin 6.

If you do it this way just be careful as pin 6 and 9 are on top of each other,

and when you pull the connector out its upside down.

Depressing when you've put all your dash back together.

Also its the pin that goes into this, not the yellow cables that you get in the kit,

and theres a locking tab on the connector that needs to be opened to allow you to put new ones in.

Edited 18 August, 2012 by tech838

[tech838]

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[Stuarthaskins88]

Cruise Control Retrofit

In this section I will tell you how you can add cruise control to your Fabia. This is a technical installation and should only be performed by someone with the correct tools and experience. The images are ‘clicky’ and will open a larger image in a new window.

If you find this all a bit daunting then why not let us take care of it for you. We now offer a complete OEM style service on all models which means no cutting into wiring looms -Fabia Cruise Control Enquiry

Parts you will need are

Cruise control stalk 8L0 953 513 J 01C (Skoda) or 1J0 953 513 01C (VW)

Cruise control loom 1J0 971 425 (Supplied from a VW or SEAT dealer)

Connector 6Q0 937 702A

5 x Wires 000 979 131

4 x Inline crimps

Black insulation tape

A selection of cable ties

Approximately 3 meters of 0.35mm fine wire (White sheathed if possible)

Tools you will need are

M12 Splined Tool

Hose clip pliers

Wire strippers and cutters

Decent crimping tool for inline crimps

Selection of philips and flat blade screwdrivers

10mm socket and long extension

Torx bits

Allen keys or Allen bits

Permanent marker pen

Paper clip

Soldering iron and solder

Please Make Sure You Read & Understand These Instructions Before Starting The Job

Enable Cruise Control Using VAG-COM (VCDS)

Connect your OBDII lead to the car.

Switch on the ignition and start VAG-COM (VCDS)

Carry out a full check for stored error codes, note and reset any that you find.

You will need to ensure that your Board Network Controller is suitable for Cruise Control. Open the controller 09 and ensure it is either 6Q0 or 6Q1 and not 6Q2.

Open controller 01, when it logs in you should, in the upper right corner, see either OOOOSG if cruise isn’t enabled or GOOOSG if cruise is enabled.

To enable cruise, choose option 11 Log In and enter the code 11463.

Close the controller, then open the controller again and confirm that GOOOSG is shown. You can also confirm by starting the car, stopping it and then scanning for codes on controller 01. You should have a fault code logged which reads something like cruise control system signal implausible. Clear the code and put your VAG-COM (VCDS) away.

Method

Disconnect the battery negative lead and place it clear of the battery – Before commencing the following steps ensure you allow any residual electrical current to dissipate.

Push back the front seats to give you some space.

Remove the airbag from the steering wheel – this can be dangerous, only proceed if you are sure you know what you are doing!!

To remove the airbag turn the steering wheel to one side so that it is 90 degrees from the straight ahead position, feeling behind the steering wheel you should locate a small hole.

Push a small flat bladed approximately 175mm long screwdriver into the hole and lever it upwards away from the steering column to release the spring clip, you should be able to pull that end of the airbag forward.

Rotate the steering wheel 180 degrees and locate the second hole in the steering wheel, carry out the same procedure again to release the spring clip.

Gently pull the airbag away from the steering wheel to reveal the firing wire. Carefully release the yellow plug from the airbag and place the airbag to one side in a safe place.

Put the steering wheel back to the wheels straight ahead position.

Using the permanent marker pen put a mark on the steering wheel retaining bolt and the steering wheel, this will help you to re-position the bolt later.

Hold the wheel tightly, not just on the steering lock, use the M12 splined tool to remove the bolt.

Again using the permanent marker, place a marker line on the steering column shaft and the inside of the wheel, this will help you to re-position the steering wheel later

Inside the steering wheel hub there is a small yellow plug, remove this.

Remove the steering wheel and place it away from you in a safe place.

Remove the steering column housing by undoing the two philips head screws from underneath, two philips head screws facing you and the allen screw tucked away under the steering wheel reach/rake adjustment.

There is also a felt trim attached to the top section which can be removed by releasing the spring clips near the dash pod.

Now you will see the canceling ring, again using the permanent marker put a mark on both the fixed and moving parts of this part. It is important not to mess this up especially if you have ESP.

There is a further yellow plug on the underside of the canceling ring, remove this then unclip the canceling ring and remove it. It may be wise to put a bit of tape on it to stop it moving and then place it somewhere safe.

Undo the allen clamping screw on the steering column switch assembly and pull the assembly forwards slightly.

Release the three electrical plugs from the back of the assembly and remove the assembly from the steering column.

Using a flat bladed screwdriver release the locking lug on the switch assembly and separate the two switches.

Fit the new cruise control equipped switch to the wiper switch and replace them back on the column.

Reconnect the three plugs you removed from the switch assembly and tighten the clamping screw.

Remove the headlight control, to do this grip the switch and push it in as you turn it to the sidelight position, this should release the latches behind it and allow you to pull it out. Release the two plugs, push them into the dash and put the headlight control to one side.

Lever off the fuse panel cover and place to one side. Next remove the trim below the dash clocks, to do this lower the steering wheel and pull it out to it’s full extent, grip the trim with both hands and pull sharply towards you and place it to one side.

To the right of the steering wheel under the trim you just removed you will see a torx screw, remove it. Inside the fuse panel cover toward the top you will see another torx screw holding the lower dash section, remove it.

Working in the foot well remove the remaining torx screws holding the lower dash panel in place.

Lower the dash panel sufficiently to allow you to reach up inside and pull the rubber air conditioning pipe from the ducting behind the air vent.

With the lower dash section laying in the foot well use a flat blade screw driver to release the 3 clips holding the OBD plug in place, you can now remove the lower dash section from the car and place it safely away from the car.

You now need to run a wire from the ECU to the cruise loom.

Working under the bonnet, remove the air box cover, air filter and air box. To do this you will need to disconnect the MAF plug and undo the spring hose clip on the main air intake. There is one bolt at the front right of the air box to remove and it will, with a hefty tug, pull clear. Put all bits to one side away from the working area.

If you look down behind the ABS unit you will see a small grommet that passes conveniently into the car behind the glove box, this is our next target.

Working inside the car remove the three upper and two lower torx screws that hold the glove box in place. Lower the glove box down slightly, unplug the plug for the glove box illumination and pull off the rubber air conditioning pipe. Be careful if you have air bag deactivation fitted. Place the glove box safely out of the way.

You should now be able to see the other side of our target rubber grommet. You will need some sort of pull through for this, maybe a wire hanger.

Feed the pull through into the grommet and into the engine bay, attach the white 0.35mm wire to it and pull the wire into the engine bay.

Remove the ECU from it’s mounting bracket and undo the upper and lower plugs. The plugs are removed by pulling the ‘T’ shaped end upwards and sliding the plug off.

We are interested in the lower, larger, 81 pin connector T81a. Remove the cable tie holding the back cover in place and remove the back cover from the plug.

We now need to locate pin 14 which should be the only solid white wire in the plug.

Snip the white wire at pin 14 approximately 1 inch from the back of the plug and strip it back ready for soldering.

The ECU loom is fitted with a corrugated protective sheath, feed the 0.35mm white wire behind the ABS unit, into the black protective sheath and up to the ECU connector.

Strip back the white 0.35mm wire ready for soldering.

Taking care not to damage any of the surrounding wires, solder the two white wires together and then seal with insulating tape.

Refit the back cover to the plug and replace the black cable tie. Refit the the plugs to the ECU and refit the ECU in it’s bracket.

Ensure that the 0.35mm white wire you fitted is secured neatly in the engine bay, pull back any slack into the car. Refit the air box, remembering to replace the MAF connector.

Working inside the car again, feed the 0.35mm white wire along the back of the ventilation unit and into the drivers foot well taking care to secure it out of sight and without obstructing anything.

Refit the glove box remembering to refit the plug for the glove box illumination and the rubber air conditioning pipe.

In the drivers side foot well pull the 0.35mm white wire through, over the steering column, following existing harness’s and toward the vehicle electrical system control unit.

Plug the cruise loom 10 pin connector, T10g, into the cruise equipped switch and run the loom down the left side of the steering column adjacent to the existing loom securing with cable ties where possible.

Pass the loom over the top of the steering column and alongside the existing looms and toward the vehicle electrical system control unit, again securing with cable ties where possible.

Now we need to make some connections, firstly cut all of the terminations from the end of the cruise loom – these aren’t required for this method.

We will be joining in the yellow pre terminated wires to the existing loom prior to fitting them in the plug.

Take two of the yellow pre terminated wires, cut the ends off to about three inches long, strip back and crimp an inline crimp to each.

Crimp the two black/yellow wires and the white 0.35mm wire from the engine bay into one end of a yellow wire you’ve made up as above.

Crimp each of the remaining three wires (blue, red/yellow, white) to the remaining three yellow wires made up as above.

Tidy this up by binding the black insulation tape around it.

Take the brown 6 pin connector, T6y, and insert the connectors in the following order -

Pin 2 – White

Pin 3 – Black/Yellow & 0.35mm White

Pin 5 – Blue

Pin 6 – Red/Yellow

Push the purple locking tab into the brown plug and then plug the brown 6 pin connector, T6y, into location XS3 on the vehicle electrical system control unit.

You should be left with a blue/black wire and a plug arrangement, this connects to the foot brake switch to supply power to the cruise system.

Remove the plug from the foot brake switch and release the top fold down section of it. Using a bent paperclip pushed into the bottom of the plug release the barbs of the termination and pull out the blue/red cable from pin 2.

Once released put the blue/red cable into the spare plug supplied with the cruise loom and the blue/black flying wire from the cruise loom into the pin 2 location on the foot brake switch plug. Close up the plug and refit it.

Join the two plugs on the cruise loom together and cable tie the cables neatly out of the way.

That’s you just about finished – just got to put it all back together now.

Notes for refitting

The steering wheel bolt is treated with a sealant and can be used up to five times. Make a punch mark after each use and tighten to 60Nm.

Make sure there is nobody in the car when you reconnect the battery incase the airbag deploys.

Credit

Many thanks to those that helped in the production and research of this guide including and not limited to Ross, BigK and Moose.

[Tech1e]

/\ looks familiar, courtesy of Fabia-vRS.com I'd say

(note Ross credited at the bottom)

Seeing how that was written in 2004 or so though things have moved on a bit.

[Joshb26]

Cheers for all the help i got it done in the end…not so bad a job really could be done very quickly if you know exactly what to do first time and works a treat….one thing i am wondering about is, should there be a light on the dash to tell me cruise is on or does the fabia not have that… a friends R32 has a light when he turns it on thats the reason for asking…maybe its different.

i did use the guide on fabia-vrs.com, very helpful, just got confused with it when all the wires he seemed to use where different colours to mine!

[Tech1e]

There isn't a dash light for cruise on the Fabia.

[Joshb26]

Cheers mate, just wasnt sure thats all

[other-power]

Hello,

This is my first post, I am new owner of a Fabia estate 1.9tdi.

I am wanting to put CC on the car and have ordered a stick for the car.

I went to order a loom as per the code 1J0 971 425 but its been superseded by 1j0998527a which is a complete kit - £80 + VAT

I can order plugs and cables/crimps for peanuts but I need to know the wiring diagram, has any one got the loom to hand that they could draw the cable and pin up for it please and or can I be directed to the wiring diagram?

Thanks

Jon

[Tech1e]

That wiring kit is for a MK4 Golf, doesn't have the right loom for a Fabia.

[other-power]

Which one?

1J0 971 425 or

1j0998527a ?

I think I have a wiring diagram but its German format and I need to convert it.

Cheers

Jon

[Tech1e]

Both of them are incorrect. The stalk is the same but how and where they connect to is very different.

The proper Skoda kit is BEA400002 and costs around £70

[Denzil]

Hello,

 

1. I have bought a Cruise control kit for my 2006 Fabia VRS, I got the kit from Skoda kit number BEA 400 002 what has got the wiring harness and switch. The car has a 6Q1 control unit, I have followed the instructions word by word I have connected the white wire to plug T11a/pin10. when I switched the cruise control on with my vcds I have taken the car for a run the cruise does not work, Plugged the vcds and found fault code 17977-cruise control switch (e45) P1569-35-00- implausible signal.
2. I have been reading on here about cutting into the car harness at the ecu witch I don't want to do. can anyone shed some more light on this. I have seen someone saying T11b/pin6 Help needed..... 

[Tech1e]

There probably isn't a wire in T11a/pin 10.

 

The wire moves about which is why I always go direct to the ECU, saves a lot of hassle of hunting for the white wire.

 

Also when it is successfully installed and the engine ECU is coded to clear all the fault codes you normally need to start the engine, turn off and go back into the fault memory to clear it.