Got everything crossed for you.

At least you are lucky to have a dealer honoring your warrantly and doing what they can to sort the problem out.

Phil

The correct way to adjust the idle on these engines is to adjust using VCDS/Diagnostics.

How high as this raised your idle?

As further back I also had shaking on idle and mine has now stopped. I have an ASZ though so there will be some differences.

Phil

The adjustment on the small bolts which hold the pedal unit together (paint-mark when set at factory) lets you raise & lower the idle. It's common on all VAG cars of the age. Mine is a BLT but the ASZ is the same set-up. I have the 14mm EGR gasket which removes the hesitation at +/- 1700 rpm but I still had the shake & like the OP, it was more noticeable when the engine is warm (ie off fast-idle) or, as we used to call it back in the day "on choke", but not up to full temperature. I took the pedal box off (two bolts) & slackened the unit bolts a couple of turns, allowing the unit to be moved in the slots & slightly increasing the idle, to +/- 920 rpm. The shake disappeared, simple as that. I don't have VCDS but I have a decent code-reader/re-set unit. Absolutely no issues since.

The cheapest fix there is- entirely no cost whatsoever. Try it & I'd virtually guarantee it solves the issue!

Regarding the difference with BMW, I thought that pd was common rail. Perhaps not! Do the injectors fail though?

Edited 27 November, 201213 yr by Dunkuk

Well....

All being well... It isnt shaking however I have left the dealers before saying this.. Give it a few days and I will update you.

Just to be clear #4 Injector was replaced.

Does sound a lot like the injector, I should know have had 2 fail in the past!

Although it's not common rail perhaps the solenoids can go?

The other more scary prospect is the cam wearing as this seems common with some PD engines, I hope this isn't your problem.

Regarding the difference with BMW, I thought that pd was common rail. Perhaps not! Do the injectors fail though?

They can fail just like any other. The main difference is that the PD has a low pressure fuel pump to delivery to the injectors then the injector incorporates a pump which is driven off the cam to charge the pressure. The solenoid then releases the fuel. So you get common rail type pressures (slightly higher actually I think) but just at the injector itself and without the more precise control of when the fuel can be injected as with common rail.

Fingers crossed it lasts.

Phil

How much are injectors does anyone know? Easy to fit for a fair DIY'er?

Got my code reader today, no faults. So hoping it is the engine mount.

Good news so far after the injector replacement... Still no shaking!!!!

Did yours bring up a fault code?

No fault code no. I think that is why it took them to find the issue bud

Was your engine actually shaking? as in you could see it shaking?

I know it's a different car but when the injector went on mine the shake got worse over about a month until the whole car shook. It was very similar to having one spark plug not firing on a petrol.

I do wonder if the injectors are not sophisticated enough to show up as a fault, I wonder what the system would actually detect?

Well I did my injector loom today, not cured it!

so gonig to get an EGR blank, try that and if not, new injector! :(

But which one? Haha.

Yeah the engine shook. They said they needed to do compression tests on the injector? I have read on here if u have vcds all should read ,minus?

But which one? Haha.

With VCDS I thought you could log them? (I never succeeded on my Golf as it wouldn't talk the ECU, otherwise I'd have done this myself!)

Got a friend who works for a breakers yard and parts supplier. He is going to see if he has any in stock, then do them at mates rates

Actually just seen this on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Devon-VCDS-Vag-Com-Fault-Diagnostics-Tricks-Coding-VW-Golf-Seat-Audi-Skoda-GTI-/140890794585?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item20cdbeea59

May be worth £6 when I am near Exmouth.

That's Jason on here - goes by the same name.

For logging you can get a cheap cable for that (or less) and run it at our own leisure anyway using VCDS-Lite, which is free.

I tried a cheap cable and it would not connect, then bought one of the Amazon fault code readers, that works fine but obviously doesn't log things like injector readings.

Will drop him a message when I have time

I got one of these leads, came with a driver CD. Works with the free VCDS, the only false start was that I had to turn off the internal modem on my laptop for it to work.

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

My car is at it again at Idle... Have a listen to the video - Tell me what you think.

Right my BLT engined Ibiza fr does this at idle and worse during warm up phase ( between 55 and 70 deg on the temp guage)

Its a normal thing due to the way the fuelling is one these engines they run very lean at idle thus when a/c or lights are on alternator load is increased so is amount of fuel injected.

fitting the 14mm gasket in the egr pipe just below intake manifold improves things greatly and getting egr turned down.

Do check the alternator clutched pulley as these sieze and cause this, with engine off use a coffee stirrer to try and move fan clockwise inside alternator, sound spin easily i know mine dosent, or mark one blade of fan with paint start up watch alternator and get someone to turn engine off fan should keep spinning, if it stops at same time of engine pulley is siezed.

Also check with vcds that engine is actually reaching 88 deg coolant temp, dont trust gauage as mine was only reaching 82deg on vcds so staying on warm up fueling that made shake worse. All caused by knackered thermostat easy but tight job to change.

Maybe worth usi ng some kind of intake cleaner on your car carefully as its such low milage its prob coked up. Wynnes EGR cleaner is really good remove top boost pipe from EGR and spray it in a squirt at a time with engine running.

Just read the whole thread. Is a common fault -fueling or timimg 90% of the time.Usually down the the cambelt stretching over time a few degrees due to wear or a simple case of the fueling needs tweaking as is normally more of a problem when the engine is warm as when its cold,it is getting plenty of fuel.

try switching your a.c on when its doing it and the engine is warm and it will normally help pointing to a fueling/timong issue

the other option is the duel mass fly wheel as many have mentioned and if this is the problem,dip your clutch when it is shuddering and if it helps cut the shuddering then this will be your problem

as i say 90% of the time it will be down to a fueling/timing problem though

Sonix, did you ever get this sorted?

Mine is booked in today after it got a lot worse