Idle speed should be around 850-900rpm. If it sitting at 1000rpm then it's too high.

Mine goes to 1000rpm from cold sometimes when a big electrical load is placed on the alternator but not normally any other time.

Phil

I have come to the conclusion mine is not an engine mount. When I have had mounts go on other cars, when starting the engine moves alot, however the Fabia does not. Also if it was the mount, it would shake form cold.

So my thinking and actions to sort it will be the following:

Fit the smaller EGR gasket (although mine doesn't have a gasket at all at the moment...)

Raise the idle to just over 900.

Have the timing checked.

Also, I believe form reading on forums there is a tensioner pulley that comes off balance and causes the shaking. No idea how true this is but is another possibility.

I think it has to be related to idle speed or timing as when rev'd slightly it stops

Same - If I rev the car over 15 RPM no shaking.

I wish you were local so we could compare!

Mine rattles to a point where my head kind of shakes

That is on idle, if I slightly press the throttle to maybe 950-1000rpm it is fine.

I am maybe in Yorkshire next weekend

I dont think it is anything like a missfire or injector fault, because if it was, surely blipping the throttle would result in a hesitation or stutter to start with.

Do you have VCDS or similar?

Might be worth getting an exact number that your engine is idling at.

When ours used to shake it was the same. If I pressed the throttle really lightly to just under 1000rpm it stopped.

When increasing the idle there is a maximum it will go. There is a number that can only go so high and the maximum you can get it to is about 950rpm but it seems to vary between cars.

There is also a little tweak to lower the EGR duty cycle (reduce how much EGR opens).

So basically ours used to shake at idle and no longer does. Everything that I have done is as follows:

EGR duty turn down to minimum allowance level (about 15% from memory)

Idle revs raised as high as they will go (just shy of 900rpm in my case)

MAF removed and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner

Cleaned intercooler and pipework out

Gearbox rebult

New clutch, slave cylinder and DMF

Cleaned EGR out

That's all I can think of that's been done that could affect the idling.

P.s. Just noticed where you are s0nix. My Gran lives just up the road in Gomersal.

Phil

I am kind of ruling out things like DMF and clutch as it would do it from cold with those as fautkls would it not? But also the shaking would ease by pressing and releasing the clutch, or at least it would change, however mine does not.

I am still thinking EGR or idle. Will be getting VAGCOM soon. EGR has recently been cleaned so will put the gasket on, For £2 it is worth a try first

Not too sure if this is helpful, but I had something rather similar recently; shaking at idle, sometimes intermittently. Checked everything, including the mounts and turned out to be a missing bolt on the stabliser bar. No shaking while moving though, and the RPMs at idle were stable and lower than yours.

Pete

Where is the stabiliser bar?

No vcds

Yeah where is the bar? Is it something I could see without jacking up the car?

... I think Skoda engineers should visit here for ideas!

I rang skoda up to order the EGR gasket the other day.

I didn't feel much confidence with him when he didn't even know what an EGR was and then asked what the part looked like, even though I gave him the part number.

Had the car in today for;

EGR Valve Clean up

Inlet Manifold Clean up.

The car is idling allot lower and it has STOPPED shaking!!!!!!

Why they didn't do this in the first place no one knows... Instead they decided on replacing my flywheel, clutch, tensioner, Aux belt & engine mount.

It would appear this was the problem, I hope - Lets hope it doesn't develop the fault again

thanks for all your help guys

At least it's finally sorted! And on the bright side you've got several '00s worth of parts and labor FOC too.

I put my new EGR valve in and it calmed the idles a little bit. Not too much though so will try the manifold cleaning, May try and get another manifold. Anyone know the part number?

Yeah after giving the car a good run i must admit it hasnt cured it but simply made it less noticable (At times)

Thought it might have something to do with the EGR.

You just need to turn the EGR down now to reduce the ammount of exhaust gasses the engine draws in.

Still annoying that it hasn't totally cured it though. On the bright side too at least they have replaced a load of stuff on your car so you're covered for failures of those parts for a while!

Phil

Absolutely.

How do I turn down the EGR Valve?

Not all engines will work with this mod (has to be Bosch EDC15P not EDC16 ECU):

Engine 01 -> Login -> Enter 12233

Adaptation 10 -> Channel 003

Give the throttle a little push and hold it. You should get a number around 220 mg/h. You can let go of the the throttle now.

Enter new value of 33768 -> Test -> Check the test value and make sure it likes it -> Save

Press the throttle again. The previous figure should now read about 330 mg/h and the % be lower.

This basically reduces the % of exhaust gasses the ECU requests to come through the EGR.

Done this on my car 2x Ibiza FR's and an Ibiza ASZ PD130 (same as mine).

Phil

What gain do I get from doing this?

Doesnt this raise emissions = failing MOT?

What gain do I get from doing this?

Doesnt this raise emissions = failing MOT?

Basically the EGR doesn't open as far/as much so it stops so much exhaust soot getting drawn back into the engine (EGR/Manifold stays cleaner). There is usually a reduction in smoke from the exhaust.

No emissions are checked at MOT. Only a smoke density test.

I bought a 56 plate vRS on friday with 68000 miles on the clock and i too have noticed that every now and then, on idle in nuetral it shakes! Almost like it is ticking over on really really low revs but the rev counter doesnt move....Wondering if i may need a trip back in to Skoda myself.....

Good luck bud. If you get to the bottom of it please update us.

I still have the issue only on warm up.

Guys it is normal for the turbo to be leaking oil ever so slightly? Had a friend look at the car yesterday he took the plastic cover off the bottom, had a good look and noticed a little bit of oil on the turbo. (no dripping)

I have slight oil coming from the EGR, so thinking maybe the EGR could be at fault?

Could we perhaps make a list of what we have all tried and how successful it was.

EGR Gasket- 9mm- Reduced vibration a small amount and improved running below 2,000rpm.

Replacement dogbone mount bush (poly)- No real effect on shaking.

Having done a quick search, i came across two other topics from people who had the same issue with the wobbling at idle and both came back to say it is a characteristic of the newer BLT engine. I can live with it lol

I have had replaced / Cleaned.

DMF Replaced

Clutch Replaced

Gearbox mount replaced

Aux belt pully and tensioner

EGR and Manifold cleaned

Hex Bolts replaced ? (Looking at receipt)

They have tested all injectors and they are reporting OK too