1. Is it safe (and advisable) to `clay` the windscreen, side windows, rear window and lights (lenses)?

2. I understand that `claying` will, if its done properly, remove contaminants. But what about sealants/waxes/polishes that are there...will it remove them at the same time...making it interpretive to replace them immediately you've finished `claying`??

3. I know you shouldn't try to do the whole car in one go, so is doing the bonnet, then each door one at a time and so on, the right way to go? (I'll be using Bilt Hamber with a water lubricant)

4. Do it about now and then again in the spring...is that about right?

Many thanks.

Mike.

Claying is safe pretty much whatever, the only issue is marring the paintwork if the clay bar is too aggressive.

I clay my car all at once and never had any issues and do all the bodywork, windows and alloys.

I don't believe you'll need to re-wax after claying, but someone will correct me of I'm wrong!.... and should only need to clay once or twice a year.

Hope the helps

From what I've understood from my research you WILL have to reapply apply wax's or sealant's after the clay as it removes everything. On the marring, you should be fine as long as you make sure you use plenty of lubricant too much is always better than too little. Also make sure there's no noticeable chunks in the clay (ie, if you drop it on the ground, BIN it) or that may do more damage than good.

I'm far from an expert though, so don't take my word as gospel, but I managed not to ruin everything on my first time. Not long started the clay, polish then wax process on mine panel by panel as I'm limited for time. Would rather have time to spare when I finish, then rush and half ass a job .

1. Yes, do the lot!

2. You can just apply wax afterwards but I would also use an All-in-one too (like Autoglym Super resin Polish to remove water spots left behind). It will strip Protection.

3. Same as washing, I start with the top panels and finish with the lower ones. Entirely up to you though.

4.Yes, spot on, that's when I do it anyway.

Hope this helps. I understand that Bilt hamer is a water lubrication product, but I'd be tempted to pop a bit of shampoo in there to aid with lubrication. Just to air on the side of caution!

Neil

The purpose of Claying is to bring thepaintwork, glass etc back to a completely smooth and contaminent free state

I always use Bilt Hamber Clay and a drop of Fairy liquid to help in the lubrication process

I always follow this with a wash of neat APC to make sure no previous products remain

NEXT...Do you want to mask fine swirl marks and fill them OR remove them all together?

Masking them..Use AGSRP

Remove them: By hand...or by Machine ... GTechnik P1 is the dogs ****

Then...Rewash and dry follow this with a wipe down of IPA diluted 50/50

Youre now ready for your LSP...either wax or Sealer...or both

Good luck

Thank you everyone for your advice.

Chris...I see you use Bilt Hamber, so please tell me this...I intend to do things panel by panel starting with the roof. So, once I've lubed, clayed and dried the roof, I'm now gonna do the windscreen (for instance)...how do I avoid spraying the lube (with a little soap) onto other parts of the car causing the dreaded water marks? Is it just a case of being careful? Y-see, I've watched little videos of claying being done and the person just sprays the lube straight onto the car...but only does the one panel. I can see I'm banging on about this, and I'm sorry for that but living in such a hard water area I'm concerned about messing up what I've just done (the roof) and water marks where I've yet to do. Lastly, please tell me what is IPA and could you give me an example of an APC.

Many thanks.

Mike.

IPA is Isopropanol Alcohol, I bought the following:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220737166162?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D220737166162%26_rdc%3D1

Now this is 70% so I diluted it to 50% with water (I used softened and filtered drinking water), you can buy it in various dilutions but that one linked comes in a spray bottle already.

IPA is Isopropanol Alcohol, I bought the following:

http://www.ebay.co.u...37166162&_rdc=1

Now this is 70% so I diluted it to 50% with water (I used softened and filtered drinking water), you can buy it in various dilutions but that one linked comes in a spray bottle already.

Thank you for this, Gizmo, but I wouldn't have a clue how to buy something from ebay. Can I get it anywhere else do you know?

Thank you everyone for your advice.

Chris...I see you use Bilt Hamber, so please tell me this...I intend to do things panel by panel starting with the roof. So, once I've lubed, clayed and dried the roof, I'm now gonna do the windscreen (for instance)...how do I avoid spraying the lube (with a little soap) onto other parts of the car causing the dreaded water marks? Is it just a case of being careful? Y-see, I've watched little videos of claying being done and the person just sprays the lube straight onto the car...but only does the one panel. I can see I'm banging on about this, and I'm sorry for that but living in such a hard water area I'm concerned about messing up what I've just done (the roof) and water marks where I've yet to do. Lastly, please tell me what is IPA and could you give me an example of an APC.

Many thanks.

Mike.

Youre going to apply products afterwards so water marks wont matter

Read this:

http://www.polishedb...ting-paint.html

Youre going to apply products afterwards so water marks wont matter

Read this:

http://www.polishedb...ting-paint.html

Thank you so much, Chris. This was very useful.

If you are looking at going to the effort of claying the windows are you considering what to apply to the glass after? I have tried lots of window sealers and can highly recommend the Gtechnic G1. Don't be tempted to use g3 or 5 just use G1 all round with three coats on the windscreen and you won't go wrong. Fantastic run off and will last all year.

If you are looking at going to the effort of claying the windows are you considering what to apply to the glass after? I have tried lots of window sealers and can highly recommend the Gtechnic G1. Don't be tempted to use g3 or 5 just use G1 all round with three coats on the windscreen and you won't go wrong. Fantastic run off and will last all year.

Yeah, I'm going to use Carlack.

Please tell me...

With regard to Claying, what exactly is `Marring`? How do you prevent it? How do you cure/remove it, whatever it is?

Many thanks.

Mike.

If you are looking at going to the effort of claying the windows are you considering what to apply to the glass after? I have tried lots of window sealers and can highly recommend the Gtechnic G1. Don't be tempted to use g3 or 5 just use G1 all round with three coats on the windscreen and you won't go wrong. Fantastic run off and will last all year.

Mmmmm!!

G1 is a pig to apply...but lasts a little longer

G5 is very very easy anf lasts less long, but not much in it IME

Really? I always found G3 (now 5) to be worse to buff out than g1 when done with the g2 residue remover and agood cotton cloth.

G1 lasts up to 30k g3 on SWMBO's a2 useless in less than 8 weeks (about 1200 miles tops)

Well recomended

G1 lasts up to 30k g3 on SWMBO's a2 useless in less than 8 weeks (about 1200 miles tops)

Did you polish the glass first and then wipe down with IPA?

I get around 4 to 6 months from G3/5

yes I did and still didnt rate it. Much prefer the G1 and removal with the G2 is easy. I imagine trying to buff it without the G2 would be horrendous

Please tell me...

With regard to Claying, what exactly is `Marring`? How do you prevent it? How do you cure/remove it, whatever it is?

Many thanks.

Mike.

Marring is when you don't use enough lubricant with the clay and it almost scratches the surface of the paint. Best way to stop it use plenty of lubricant I use megs quick detailing spray on a wet car, no chance of it happening then.

Thanks

Chris

Marring is when you don't use enough lubricant with the clay and it almost scratches the surface of the paint. Best way to stop it use plenty of lubricant I use megs quick detailing spray on a wet car, no chance of it happening then.

Thanks

Chris

Thanks for this, Chris, but I have never `clayed` before, so being a ham fisted git I wanted to know what I do if I do `Marr` (scratch) the paint. Is it a respray job? I'm obviously hoping I don't do it and I'll use plenty of water...but I just wanted to know just in case.

Unless you rub a really soiled piece of clay over the paint with loads of pressure you should be fine. If it does happen a good polish by hand or with a machine and you will be fine. Just light finger pressure on the clay, keep kneeding it and keep it warm and it will be fine.

Thanks

Unless you rub a really soiled piece of clay over the paint with loads of pressure you should be fine. If it does happen a good polish by hand or with a machine and you will be fine. Just light finger pressure on the clay, keep kneeding it and keep it warm and it will be fine.

Thanks

Thanks, Chris. Thats put my mind at rest somewhat.

Its really really easy and safe if you use plenty of lubricant and keep inspecting it

Will claying remove fairly severe water marks?

I live in a hard water area and I was wondering whether or not I need to dry the car post wash, pre clay?

What do you think?