Hi my wife recently got 01 Octavia 1.9 Ambiente as she has gone back to work and its a longish commute. She got it from a friend of a friend and unfortunately I wasn't around to give it a go over. She was told it had FSH etc but I took it for a spin this weekend and it just didnt seem right. I got a loan of VCDS to check for any errors and got the following and not sure what they mean so any guidance would be much appreciated.

I'm fairly handy with cars but Diesel engines are a whole new world to me. Just some notes average fuel consumption is 62mpg so doesn't seem to be any issues there but when I took it for a spin I couldnt hear the turbo whistling and although its quick to get up to 100km/h it seems to lack the oomph past that but once you get it to 120 it seems to cruise perfectly. Not knowing how the car should handle usually this could be perfectly normal for it.

There are two other strange things there is a vibration behing the passeng glove box/under dash at around 1500rpm this is whether the car is at a standstill or driving along. I took the glovebox out but came seem to pinpoint whats causing it so any ideas would be great I did read a short snippet through googling that it could be the driveshaft causing vibration but that could be completel irrelevant. The other issue is she has since found she cant fill the car past a 3/4 tank or around 38l??

Thanks in advance for the help.

VCDS log is as follows:

Chassis Type: 1U - Skoda Octavia I

Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 56 76

VIN: Mileage: 250260km/155504miles

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl

Part No: 038 906 012 H

Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 3315

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: 152BB0F06F9A896

VWZ7Z0Y3289482

4 Faults Found:

17563 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)

P1155 - 35-00 - Short to Plus

17565 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)

P1157 - 35-00 - Supply Voltage

17964 - Charge Pressure Control

P1556 - 35-10 - Negative Deviation - Intermittent

19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239)

P3105 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ABS.lbl

Part No: 1C0 907 379 C

Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0103

Coding: 0001025

Shop #: WSC 31480 000 00000

VCID: 2A51730C86E436E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl

Part No: 6Q0 909 601

Component: 0F AIRBAG VW5 0006

Coding: 12358

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: F0E52164B0B88CE

1 Fault Found:

00532 - Supply Voltage B+

07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1U0-920-xxx-17.lbl

Part No: 1U0 920 910 F

Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V05

Coding: 03412

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: 31636460FB32456

VWZ7Z0Y3289482

1 Fault Found:

01176 - Key

07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl

Part No: 6N0 909 901

Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001

Coding: 00006

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: F0E52164B0B88CE

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl

Part No: 1J0 959 799 Q

Component: 5G Zentral-SG Komf. 0001

Coding: 04097

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: 4C9D15947CD008E

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1U6959802B

Component: 5G Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1U6959801B

Component: 5G Tõrsteuerger. BF0002r

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1U0959811B

Component: 5G Tõrsteuerger. HL0002H

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1U0959812B

Component: 5G Tõrsteuerger. HR0002r

No fault code found.

End ---

I would say the two first places to start are the plug to map sensor, unplug and replug it a few times this helped mine. Then clean the egr valve, as these get thoroughlygacked up. Maybe even inlet mannifold. Maf sensor will probably have seen better days too. But do those two things, wipe all the codes clear and retest see what comes back

A bigger battery also helped mine ALOT with all the little faults

Edited 23 September, 201213 yr by Lofty79

Hi Lofty69, thanks for the reply and the tips.

As un update I spent the afternoon getting my head around what is what and I have since found two things really wrong. The yellow and purple wires that go into the MAP sensor are burnt through so tomorrow I am going to replace these and hopefully that will clear those errors.

The other problem I found was one of the vacuum tubes running from the firewall down to behind the manifold was completely worn through. When I open the throttle I cant hear any whistle from the turbo. Could this be why the Turbo isn't kicking in? Is it as simple as just replacing the vacuum tube or could there be repercussions from the fact this tube has been worn through and the engine has been running without it. I dont want to just swap it out and make a bigger problem

I've included a pic of the perished vacuum tube can anyone let me know what size vacuum tube I need to replace this:

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BxmC0HZ-EQUgV1JWbmNwNTRfSUk

Edited 23 September, 201213 yr by claytonie

As un update I spent the afternoon getting my head around what is what and I have since found two things really wrong. The yellow and purple wires that go into the MAP sensor are burnt through so tomorrow I am going to replace these and hopefully that will clear those errors.

Fixing that part of the loom should prevent the first two errors.

The other problem I found was one of the vacuum tubes running from the firewall down to behind the manifold was completely worn through. When I open the throttle I cant hear any whistle from the turbo. Could this be why the Turbo isn't kicking in? Is it as simple as just replacing the vacuum tube or could there be repercussions from the fact this tube has been worn through and the engine has been running without it. I dont want to just swap it out and make a bigger problem

This will cause the third error - a vacuum is applied to move the vanes in the turbo. You may well find that the vane mechanism is jammed as it won't have been moving. Have a search on here for Mr Muscle treatment - that should give you an idea how to check things out. If you just replace that vacuum pipe you may start to see Overboost errors and then car will go into Limp Home mode (very slow) - cycling the ignition will restore power to normal - till it happens again. Generally when you boot it up a hill / do an overtake, etc. ie. just when you really want power that car dies on you. I mention this now so it does not catch you out.

For the forth error, the intake Manifold flap may be part of the anti-shudder or EGR assembly. Check the wiring of the vacuum valve clipped in underneath the inlet manifold.

Edited 23 September, 201213 yr by mbames

aye so map wiring is a great find.

Vac tube needs replaced so go ahead and do that first, be careful with the valve in the picture, when removing the vac tube from it they break easy.

Hopefully this solves it.

If it does go into limp mode after then mr muscle vnt turbo treatment thread is a good idea. But i would hope the pipe fixes it. Quite likely the burnt wire to the map would also cause limp.

Give those a go, clear the codes and report back buddy.

Cheers thanks for tip on the valve going to replace tomorrow morning and will report back here. Strange thing is car isn't in limp mode at the moment and my wife hadnt even noticed problem with car she just said was a bit slow on acceleration when overtaking on the motorway.

Do you know what size vacuum tube I need to buy? And also any idea what gauge wire I should use to repair broken MAP wires?

Off hand no and no sorry, best thing to do is take a sample with you, and request size based on this. Wiring I would be hesitant to say but as long as its 12v in nature and of a similar thickness I'm sure it would be adequate.

Cheers thanks for tip on the valve going to replace tomorrow morning and will report back here. Strange thing is car isn't in limp mode at the moment and my wife hadnt even noticed problem with car she just said was a bit slow on acceleration when overtaking on the motorway.

Do you know what size vacuum tube I need to buy? And also any idea what gauge wire I should use to repair broken MAP wires?

Limp mode normally happens when you get overboost, as you have no vacuum to the actuator you aren't enough boost to start with theres no risk of it overboosting. Limp mode is designed to protect the engine.

Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it! Hopefully the new vacuum tube does the job!

Does anyone have any ideas why the fuel rank will only fill to 3/4?

Limp mode normally happens when you get overboost, as you have no vacuum to the actuator you aren't enough boost to start with theres no risk of it overboosting. Limp mode is designed to protect the engine.

Exactly. No boost, and therefore no limp.

Fuel rank? I assume tank. Tank will be full the sender may be faulty, you can pick em up cheap its part of the sender pump. It's found under the rear seat under a plate held down with screws.

Edited 23 September, 201213 yr by Lofty79

The various "intermittent low voltage" faults suggest a slightly sticky sprague clutch on the alternator drive pulley. This isn't really a concern as long as they don't recur within a week or 2 of being cleared.

Update:

Well with all the advice on here we pretty much have all the niggles in the car ironed out. Repaired the broken wires going this morning an lo and behold error 19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239) has been cleared.

Next task was the vacuum tube for the turbo actuator got a 2m length from Motor Factors for €3 but with the rain lashing down I was in no mood to crawl under the car so took it to the local garage and they fitted it for €10. I was very worried that because the turbo hadn't been used it would be stuck and the car would go into limp mode but the pulling out of the garage gently I could already hear it whistling. I went for a slow 20min country drive to get things warmed up then ripped back along the motorway to clear things out and it is like a different car. Think the wife will be shocked when she drives it into work tomorrow

Just two things left to fix now the the fuel reading and the rattle under the dash on the passengers side.

On the fuel tank only ever reading 3/4 is this what I need to replace?

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