right, ok, before all you 'detailers' start, I couldn't be arsed to search ok So do clay bars make a massive difference? I'm normally a wash and go guy, why take two bottles into the shower and all that. However, my almost ten year old Firby could do with some TLC on the exterior. I hardly ever wash him, he's at 108K and the most he's had is some Turtle Wax wash n wax or Swarfega vehicle cleaner. A few bits here and there I'd like to sort so he looks nice for Gaydon in July. What do you anal detailing people recommend? I'll post a few pics s of the major bits I'd like sorting ASAP and one more thing, budget is tighter than a gnats ****!

Oh yeah, the engine bay, I'd like to make that look 'acceptable' too, also on the cheapy cheap if possible :think:

Yes clay can make a huge difference as it will cleanse the paintwork from any contamination stuck to the paintwork.

However in your case and with your wash routine I think it is going to be a waste of time and money, much better off going over the car with something like Autoglym SRP.

As with mist things, with detailing you will get out what you put in, for the best results you need, time, money and a machine polisher.

Clay bar isn't cheap (pick cleaning stuff up from Halfords when they have their 3 for two days)....although you don't actually need detail spray to use it as a drop of water will do the same.....it will make a difference, then use some thing like Autoglym SRP and you will really notice it

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_255233

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_851369_langId_-1_categoryId_165527

It will make a difference on paint which has never been properly polished before, and should be a routine stage done before any polishing is done. In your case, I suspect your lower half of the doors are also rough with tar spots, eve after washing? They should be removed with autoglym intensive tar remover.

But, if you take a car (clean) that has never been clayed, and then clay it, it does make a difference. The main difference though is the feel when you run a hand over it. Ultra smooooooth.

However in your case and with your wash routine I think it is going to be a waste of time and money, much better off going over the car with something like Autoglym SRP.

Quite the opposite. It's the first thing I would do before starting any polishing and absolutely would not go anywhere near a car with a machine before using a clay bar.

There are clay bars available for less than £8 that can be used with water for lubrication rather than a QD.

And if you can get a spray bottle empty, fill it with water a small dribble of fabric softener. Provides sufficient soap in the mix, should you need it. 90% of the time I find water alone left on the car after a wash does the job for claying.

Quite the opposite. It's the first thing I would do before starting any polishing

Providing any tar spots have previously been removed (which the SRP would do anyway) then you can quite happily polish a car which has fallout in the paintwork.

absolutely would not go anywhere near a car with a machine before using a clay bar.

Agreed, but the OP hardly washes the car let alone machine polishes it.

Reading between the lines the OP is a long step away from wanting to detail his car, he just wants to improve it’s looks for the national meet.

If you clay a car then the likelihood is you will be introducing micro marring to the paint, not a problem when you are going to machine polish the car as this will remove the marring and swirls.

But as he is on a very tight budget then HIS money will be better spent elsewhere, the paintwork will still look much better even without claying it.

FWIW I clay our cars, but I then go on to use the flex for correction, followed by an IPA wipe down and then add a couple of coats of wax.

I think it's worth pointing out here that claying is not as simple as some people are making out with some false advice being offered.

There are different grades of clay in terms of how aggressive they are, some are fine, some medium and some hard. Also you need to be aware that only some clays will work with water alone, some won't and require a Quick Detailer product to act as lubricant.

Depending on how rough your surface is and how many contaminants on the paintwork there are, when you clay you may induce marring that will add fine scratches into the paintwork.

I appreciate that you may not want or have access to machine polish the paintwork so will already have scratches in there but I think it's worth making you aware of the risks associated with claying.

That said, claying goes a long way to smooth the paintwork by removing bonded contaminants and it's a worth while exercise........

FWIW I clay our cars, but I then go on to use the flex for correction, followed by an IPA wipe down and then add a couple of coats of wax.

Check you out with your Flex...........

Check you out with your Flex...........

You have a lot to answer for Simon, starting me out on that slippery slope …. it is a lovely bit of kit mind.

You have a lot to answer for Simon, starting me out on that slippery slope …. it is a lovely bit of kit mind.

Apologies......... :(

Yeah I have used Rob's many times, I do like it but the Makita is just too reliable..........

Don’t apologise, it was nice to see how it should be done

Providing any tar spots have previously been removed (which the SRP would do anyway) then you can quite happily polish a car which has fallout in the paintwork.

Agreed, but the OP hardly washes the car let alone machine polishes it.

Reading between the lines the OP is a long step away from wanting to detail his car, he just wants to improve it’s looks for the national meet.

If you clay a car then the likelihood is you will be introducing micro marring to the paint, not a problem when you are going to machine polish the car as this will remove the marring and swirls.

But as he is on a very tight budget then HIS money will be better spent elsewhere, the paintwork will still look much better even without claying it.

FWIW I clay our cars, but I then go on to use the flex for correction, followed by an IPA wipe down and then add a couple of coats of wax.

I think it's worth pointing out here that claying is not as simple as some people are making out with some false advice being offered.

There are different grades of clay in terms of how aggressive they are, some are fine, some medium and some hard. Also you need to be aware that only some clays will work with water alone, some won't and require a Quick Detailer product to act as lubricant.

Depending on how rough your surface is and how many contaminants on the paintwork there are, when you clay you may induce marring that will add fine scratches into the paintwork.

I appreciate that you may not want or have access to machine polish the paintwork so will already have scratches in there but I think it's worth making you aware of the risks associated with claying.

That said, claying goes a long way to smooth the paintwork by removing bonded contaminants and it's a worth while exercise........

Check you out with your Flex...........

Both giving the best advice on this thread... the OP obviously doesnt know where to start and as said, claying (although an essential stage for me) isnt going to make this car look better without subsequent polishing. Granted, going from a wash stage to something like SRP wouldnt sit right with anyone in the know but is that a step too far in this case?

Personally i would wash the car, cover it in tar and glue remover and wipe down then wash again before using SRP and then a wax.

Time would probably be better spent on the details (trim and tyre dressings and making sure the glass and plastics are clean and dressed).

HTH, Nige

I wonder if the OP got the answers he was after from the "anal detailing people..."

I wonder if the OP got the answers he was after from the "anal detailing people..."

Not sure who that was aimed at Chris but feel free to offer your thoughts........

As with mist things, with detailing you will get out what you put in, for the best results you need, time, money and a machine polisher.

Machine polisher's on my birthday list

In your case, I suspect your lower half of the doors are also rough with tar spots, eve after washing?

funny thing, Jase, when I wash it I take a bit of meths to remove the tar spots as I hate them, so very few ATM

I wonder if the OP got the answers he was after from the "anal detailing people..."

:rofl:

thanks for the responses guys Lots to think about, I'll ask SWMBO if she can get me a polisher early

the term 'anal' was meant in a good way, BTW

OK...You mentioned 'anal' but its you that cant be 'arsed' cleaning your car

OK...You mentioned 'anal' but its you that cant be 'arsed' cleaning your car

:( ,,,,,busted,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

any good,, or can someone reccomend a better one sub £50?

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cp254-car-polisher-230v

Steer well clear...They are rubbish

You need a Dual Action polisher and compatable backing plate and polishing pads

You wont get one at the price youre willing to spend

A cheap DA with pads and polish:

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/das-6-dual-action-polisher/das-6-dual-action-polisher-menzerna-intro-kit/prod_721.html

Why not ask someone who lives near you to help ypou out by polishing your car for you?

OR pay a Detailer?

Steer well clear...They are rubbish

You need a Dual Action polisher and compatable backing plate and polishing pads

anything you can recommend :think:

Above