Hi guys,

My car has developed a fault…again.

My car put its EML on a few months ago and the car ran lumpy. Turned out to be o2 sensor however knowing that this was brand new I changed my MAF and this fixed it. I replaced it with a second hand one off a high mileage car and last week the EML came back on with the same fault. I decided to buy a new (albeit aftermarket) MAF and fitted it. This has made my car idle perfect and drive smooth as ever.

However…….

I took my car for a bit of a spirited drive to test it out. My car seemed to hit a fuel cut out around 4,500rpm and put my ASR light on the dash along with the EML. is this limp mode? Could a MAF cause this? Seems strange as the car is driving perfectly at normal speeds.

Im baffled so any help is welcomed.

Richard

Anyone?

Who made the MAF that you fitted?

Reason I ask is because I fitted a new after market (cheapy) MAF last year as I had similar problems to you, it lasted 3 days before it went down. The motor factors I use said they are forever getting the cheaper ones returned, however I replaced it with the same again, result less than a week until that one failed .

I then fitted a Bosch one which cured the fault and hasn't reoccurred since.

Pays your money takes your choice

Cheers mate. It's just an eBay hobby as I wasn't sure that was the fault.

Car idles perfect and drives nice now just have a dash board Christmas tree going on with all the lights.

Might just take the plunge on a Bosch

Aftermarket MAF's are always going to let you down unfortunately. Buy cheap = buy twice.

(i and others have been there and got the T shirt).

cheers mate. ill sort out a genuine one and send this one back

disconnect the MAF and see how she drives. As others have said the cheap mafs are trash.

Genuine VAG parts only is pretty much the rule with any of the engine sensors.

Car drives fine but won't let me boost too much as it seems to cut the fuel. It started just as I changed the MaF so definitely that. Ill ring skoda for a price

Stupid question alert!

I've bought a genuine Bosch MAF now and it's fitted but my car still coughs and spluts around 3.5-4k rpm. Do I need to delete all the fault codes to kick it out of limp mode?

Stupid question alert!

I've bought a genuine Bosch MAF now and it's fitted but my car still coughs and spluts around 3.5-4k rpm. Do I need to delete all the fault codes to kick it out of limp mode?

The code will still be stored, but it should come out of limp. So how does it run with the MAF unplugged?

Not tried.

The old MAF (none genuine) idled fine but wouldn't let me rev past 4.5k

Genuine one idles fine but splutters at 3.5k

And the old Bosch one wouldn't idle at all

Try unplugging it, & go for a spin. It's not unheard of for new genuine MAF's to be faulty.

You need to clear the codes, a faulty MAF will throw up not just a code for itself (lambda sensor is one).

Yea always tells me O2 sensor which has been changed. Definitely the MAF so ill have it cleared of codes n see how it goes

Turned out to be dodgy wiring after all that!

I was fitting MAFs too often. Eventually my local garage discovered the EGR breather pipes leaking. He lifted out a pile of broken plastic tubing and rotted rubber and fitted all new genuine breather pipe work.

Since then things have been good. There was a problem with using brakes at low speeds. Servo issue no doubt. Thats been cured.

Also burnt oil smell has gone. So worth cheking out the breatehr set up