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Boost Fluctuation and misfire @ 5500rpm

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This sounding more and more like my problem by the minute !!

Looking at your first log the injection seems a bit weird up the top end, it's going up and down, surely is should keep going up ?? Maybe ....

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  • And the results are in First graph is as it originally went in with an unknown stage 1 map vs the custom stage 2 with capped power and fueling issue's. Data sheets for above graph: Todays grap

  • Fuel pump starting to fail !!

  • Do you scan with vag com for errors or do you log meas block 015&016 Misfire recognition in real time and watch the counter? Usually you won`t see misfire error stored in the log, the best way is

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This sounding more and more like my problem by the minute !!

Looking at your first log the injection seems a bit weird up the top end, it's going up and down, surely is should keep going up ?? Maybe ....

I'm not sure tbh, but what I do find very odd (and i've noticed this in previous logs) is that the ecu load seems to max out at 191.7 yet the boost and the airflow g/s can be massively different when it hits this ecu load.

i.e in the 1st log above, it has hit 191.7 load with a g/s of 151 yet at 187.1 g/s (approx 232bhp using the divide by 0.8 methord), the ecu load has dropped.

A few days ago I had a log of 194.14 g/s (242bhp approx), and again the ecu load hadn't gone above 191.7.

But from what I understand an ecuload of 190ish is approx 1.2bar, yet i'm hitting 1.4ish (2400 - 2500mbar) and the ecu is seeing that in the logs but not registering it with the ecuload.

As said its all a bit technical lol

Is there anyone who can break this down for us. I could do with a hand too.

I did ask on vortex but the spetics didn't help.

Black arts .....

  • Author

Well the only thing I have left to try is replacing the hoses between the n75 and the actuator and from the n75 to the turbo outlet pipe (can't see any splits or holes, but no harm in changing them just incase), oh and my mates cupra R fuel pump.

Once that is done, I am officially out of idea's and i'll have to give up on it and start sorting out the other car, as i'm not going to waste the trackday i've booked and paid for.

That is EXACTLY what was happening to me with the old fuel pump but again you swapped the pumps and s*it was unchanged.

  • Author

That is EXACTLY what was happening to me with the old fuel pump but again you swapped the pumps and s*it was unchanged.

The pump fitted at the moment, is from the other car as I didn't see the point in changing them back again.

I have since done over 200 miles in the other car, without a problem and as said that car also runs 1.4bar boost (although it is nowhere near as agressive when it comes on boost as this car).

I will be trying a cupra R pump tomorrow (hopefully), so if it is the fuel pump that should sort it (but still not convinced it is a fueling problem).

Check the fuel lines under the car,maybe it`s pinched somewhere and robbing you of fuel

Are you sure that the pump you swapped is original vrs fuel pump? AUQ AMK BAM engine code have identical fuel pump (4bar I think) but 150hp has 3bar pump.

PN : 1J0 919 051H

Edited by Gonzaga

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Check the fuel lines under the car,maybe it`s pinched somewhere and robbing you of fuel

Worth a look I guess, but can't see that being the problem.

  • Author

Are you sure that the pump you swapped is original vrs fuel pump? AUQ AMK BAM engine code have identical fuel pump (4bar I think) but 150hp has 3bar pump.

PN : 1J0 919 051H

Afaik AUQ uses 3bar pump and AMK / BAM is 4bar.

I'll be honest I didn't take the sender unit apart to check, just swapped the units over complete.

The best way to check and to 100% sure is to temporally install fuel pressure gauge and see what is happening with fuel pressure, Use some duck tape and stick it to the windshield and gun it in 3rd gear.

Afaik AUQ uses 3bar pump and AMK / BAM is 4bar.

I'll be honest I didn't take the sender unit apart to check, just swapped the units over complete.

There are some confusing information on the net regarding this. I am 99% sure that AUDI TT quatro 225HP BAM uses the same pump as AUQ but have one additional outlet.

  • Author

The best way to check and to 100% sure is to temporally install fuel pressure gauge and see what is happening with fuel pressure, Use some duck tape and stick it to the windshield and gun it in 3rd gear.

I don't know anyone local with a fuel pressure gauge that I could borrow.

There are some confusing information on the net regarding this. I am 99% sure that AUDI TT quatro 225HP BAM uses the same pump as AUQ but have one additional outlet.

Yes it does seem there is some conflicting info.

I have tried it with the standard map, the boost is still up and down and drops right off around 5500rpm still, but doesn't misfire / splutter.

define standard. is it the oem map for that ecu?

where did you get stage2 map? which site and are you mimicking the hardware setup?

what tests have performed on the n75?

  • Author

define standard. is it the oem map for that ecu?

where did you get stage2 map? which site and are you mimicking the hardware setup?

what tests have performed on the n75?

Yes the oem map from this car / ecu (it was 100% standard when I bought it).

This is the map i'm using (mods if the link is against the rules, please remove it)

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=573.msg5663#msg5663

I have borrowed the n75 from my mates leon cupra (same part no.) and nothing changed.

  • Author

Just a quick 1, I have just done a tb adaptation on my other vrs (the working one), and noticed that when it does the adjustment, the throttle % in the 2 box's add up to a total of 100%.

i.e box 1 is 14.4 and box 2 is 85.6.

When I did a tb adaptation of the car with the issue's the other day, I noticed that the 2 box's didn't add upto 100%.

box 1 was something like 14.8 and box 2 was 84.6 (these are not exact figures), but they do not add upto 100%, I didn't think anything of it, as with the Evo's it used to be the same full throttle would be somewhere around 98% in a datalog (but that wasn't dbw).

So could it be my tb is causing the problems ?

  • Author

Ok to answer my own question, it's not the tb causing the problem.

I've spoken to G-slave regarding starting another thread about logging and diagnostics.

We both need help lol, and he seems to know a fair bit.

I'll start something up and we can get our collective heads together on this, I think the clues are in the log figures, it's the hard part is finding them !!

what psi is your WG actuator set at?

still think your vac to n75 to WG is not right. possibly your actuator isn't closing properly. log of n75 should show you flux

Edited by G-slave

  • Author

what psi is your WG actuator set at?

still think your vac to n75 to WG is not right. possibly your actuator isn't closing properly. log of n75 should show you flux

standard actuator as far as I can see. New vac lines to actuator and n75 fitted yesterday. No change to the way it drives
  • Author

Ok tested the cupra R pump earlier, nothing changed, so thats 3 pumps now, which means I am 99.9% happy it is not a fuel pump issue.

Infact looking into the logs the fueling on boost seems to hit 0.75 lambda (11afr) and stops, which makes me think this is as rich as the logging sees and the car could be running even richer and thus either causing a rich misfire (unlikely) or the ecu is just saying no way and cutting the throttle to reduce the boost.

I've now switched to a much more sedate map, and the car no longer misfires and pulls cleanly to the rev limiter.

The downside of this map is that it runs about 0.9bar with a peak at 1.2bar, but again over 5000rpm the boost still drops off to around 0.4bar but I guess that could be a feature of the map.

Anyway for now misfire cured and the car is more drivable, lets hope R-tech can work there magic on tuesday.

they should know. keep us posted

I had a pipe pop off my intake manifold at the weekend and it made a surprising difference to the car's running.

It was idling as though on three cylinders, popping and farting and generally sounding really rough.

A temporary repair with some electrical tape fixed it to get me home!

  • Author

I had a pipe pop off my intake manifold at the weekend and it made a surprising difference to the car's running.

It was idling as though on three cylinders, popping and farting and generally sounding really rough.

A temporary repair with some electrical tape fixed it to get me home!

I've checked all pipework I can find now, and no issue's that I can see or hear.

I've just had another scan over mine today, all looks good to me, although I have been told it could b e tiny, ordered a boost leak tester off the bay as all signs are pointing to boost leak. Vac is solid at -27 psi at idle.

I'll start diag thread as mentioned to save cluttering up this one.

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