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230v power tool to 240v mains?


devonutopia

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as it happens i am actually in a theatre right now, i've just looked at the mains incoming voltages, and they are L1-238v, L2-241v, L3- 240v under no load, getting a bit of fluctuation when the stage dimming equipment is working but thats fairly normal...

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as it happens i am actually in a theatre right now, i've just looked at the mains incoming voltages, and they are L1-238v, L2-241v, L3- 240v under no load, getting a bit of fluctuation when the stage dimming equipment is working but thats fairly normal...

Totally Normal and you can certainly end up with some issues when the voltage drops and you start popping fuses due to the increased current draw on some devices.

There is no way you could make the grid work at a perfect 240V/50Hz, 24/7 as you're going to get extra demand and generation coming on and going offline.

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GG- just read your post #28 - my comments in post #27, were not aimed at you . I'm a time served Comms engineer, and in that line( and some of my others) ,you get to learn a bit about all branches of electrics . ( from LV 5v /12v/24v /110v to mains 240 /440/660 ,650DC,800DC & 50w RF to 4.5KV submarine PF cubicles and 25kv overhaed), so you only have to mention a few things and I know you know what yer talking about . i haven't stuck the leads on my fairly well calibrated DVM into a mains socket recently ,as I don't know if the leads are HV .

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Thanks for the clarification; there are a couple of people who seem to spend all their time slagging me off and making out I am a sky pilot though; I am not, I have just had a busy and interesting life.

There ARE thingsa I dont know, and others I make mistakes about, but if in doubt I read up on them ASAP (I am at least a fast reader).

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I haven't checked in the UK. But every transformer here seems to be manually adjustable for voltage. Because these typical transformers are rather dumb machines, with no actual voltage measuring, they simply run on a ratio of voltages which is driven by the ratio of coils.

Coils and hence voltage ratio is adjustable (I don't know the range, I decided not to try it) to cater for voltage drop on the lines feeding the transformers. Many are kilometers from the sub-stations.

Cities I'd expect to be a little more sophisticated.

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I haven't checked in the UK. But every transformer here seems to be manually adjustable for voltage. Because these typical transformers are rather dumb machines, with no actual voltage measuring, they simply run on a ratio of voltages which is driven by the ratio of coils.

Coils and hence voltage ratio is adjustable (I don't know the range, I decided not to try it) to cater for voltage drop on the lines feeding the transformers. Many are kilometers from the sub-stations.

Cities I'd expect to be a little more sophisticated.

Most substations feeding HV lines have tap changers so they can be adjusted remotely/manually to maintain the voltage on the line IE 11/33/66/132KV to allow for the volt drop over vast distances. As for the LV side of transformers there are various tapping points in order to give the voltage output required in various countries

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I stuck my volt meter into a socket and guess what ?? It says 240v !! :rock: As for cost, please widen your narrow view, EVERY sub-station transformer in Europe would need changing.

240v - 10% and 230v - 6% BOTH give 216v - care to comment ?? This was all discussed in the IEEE Journals back in the late 80s/early 90s; the consensus was only a symbolic paperwork change was required, and I have seen no evidence of any new transformers giving 230v despite all the new housing estates (complete with new sub stations), built in my area since the change occurred.

You be surprised the actual difference in readings between meters. We did a refresher course when the 17th edition came in. There was various different companies and the instructor made us in pairs plug our earth loop testers into a twin socket at the same time and the voltages displayed was on average about 10v difference between them and also the Zs was quite a difference. Between lowest and highest values was about .30 ohms and all units were calibrated

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That all sounds a bit iffy, WHEN were they all calibrated and by whom?? I used to send my Fluke 88 away every couple of years (until it got stolen), I dont bother with my little Fluke 12 because I only dabble, but if the voltage reading is 10% off, what about the resistance, capacitance and inductance readings??

You dont say where you did the refresher, but my experience of college equipment - admittedly 15 years ago - was that they used old, obsolete tat; Evesham college were still using 10% resisters, YEARS after everyone in the industry had switched to 1% jobs; and ancient model 10 and Model 12 AVO's.

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And look out for any US kit that says "110 -230v AC" . It might well be switched mode, but the input RF capacitors will most likely be rated at 110 ,and on connection -unit goes bang . Son had it with some kit he bought in US ( Californi to be precise). Think it was a PS3 -lot cheaper than here . Said "110-230" ,so he pluged it in for PSU to go bang . I opened it to find input cap had blown and deposited it's innards on most of the inside . New PSU for a few quid and all was well . If the drill is not metal ,then it's probably double insulated . If metal ,might be worth opening up and fitting three core cable ,and then get it PAT tested .

Strange I had a Jap PS3 when they first came out, and ended up selling it quickly and bought a USA model a couple of days later.

IIRC it was 2006 when the PS3 was launched and my USA model is still plugged into the mains and working without an issue.

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Sons kit defo went bang and I'd suspect being ofv US originon were rated as 110 v. Nice bang , he told me .

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Sons kit defo went bang and I'd suspect being ofv US originon were rated as 110 v. Nice bang , he told me .

I'm not doubting what your saying, just saying thats very strange, as I said mine is a USA unit thats been plugged direct into the uk mains and has been since november 2006.

I was wary about doing this when I bought it, but there was alot of info about on the net, that stated the psu in them was universal and would happily run on 110 - 240v.

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Nah- It was bought states side ,in CALIFORNIA ,where AFAIK it's 110 AC . Happy news was that he got a PSU here for peanuts ,so was still Quids in . He should have known better ,as i'd mentioned before that anything they brought over would be 110 not 240 .

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