Hi all, I'm getting a bumper tomorrow in silver but I need it in rally red, I have got the money to get it done properly so I am going to DIY it,

Does any know the best step by step with a rattle can? Also will I have to sand the bumper down all the way to plastic again thanks,

I have done DIY paint jobs before and they have always came out ok , I just want this time to be a bit better than ok

Thanks

If the paint is good and not flaking you'll only need to sand it enough so as the surface is not shiny, to key the two paint layers together. However, make sure it's smooth with no scratch mark. Taking time with preparation work is at least 60% of getting a good paint finish, if not more. I can't say as I'd want to use aerosols, but if you must.

Don't save money on cheap aerosols. You need quality paint with a quality nozzle. And DON'T try to get the last bit out of the can either, on such important paint jobs. Once that can really starts slowing down, discard it.

Remove all paint & primer, sand smooth, couple of layers of primer, allow to dry for 48 hours, sand smooth, clean, 2 or 3 layers of basecoat, applied fairly thin to avoid runs, preferably in a warm environment. Warm can up on a radiator too. Then repeat with clearcoat, allow to dry for some time - I would say at least 48 hours too. Then wet sand and polish.

Remove all paint & primer, sand smooth, couple of layers of primer, allow to dry for 48 hours, sand smooth, clean, 2 or 3 layers of basecoat, applied fairly thin to avoid runs, preferably in a warm environment. Warm can up on a radiator too. Then repeat with clearcoat, allow to dry for some time - I would say at least 48 hours too. Then wet sand and polish.

Why remove all paint and primer? Plastics are a pain in the bum, and a specific PLASTIC primer should be used, not any old primer. Also, primer is pretty quick drying. That is rather excessive waiting time for the primer.

Why remove all paint and primer? Plastics are a pain in the bum, and a specific PLASTIC primer should be used, not any old primer. Also, primer is pretty quick drying. That is rather excessive waiting time for the primer.

I just think I would want to start fresh rather than go over the top of something, I would at least remove the original basecoat and use a layer of fresh primer over the original primer?

I'm not a paint sprayer by trade so this is just from a hobby perspective with the odd bit of spraying I have done by can.

Barcoat it if you're worried about a reaction but sanding it all the way back is just making needless work for yourself.

yes no need to take paint off all paint as said, just repair and key the surface then prime it properly then paint!

What's the use of putting plastic primer on top of exsisting paint?

You wouldn't. You would only plastic prime the bits that have been sanded through to repair. You will still have to prime it though

You wouldn't. You would only plastic prime the bits that have been sanded through to repair. You will still have to prime it though

exactly!

What's the use of putting plastic primer on top of exsisting paint?

I was referring to plastic primer on the BARE plastic. But then I'd never strip it back to bare anyway. Not unless the paint was flaking off. Even damaged area's I'd rather fill and repair.

you always strip bare, you did the last time you came over, remember it vividly :love:

Only when you look at me with those big longing eyes, sweetheart...

aaaaaaaaaahhhaaaaaahaa

thought you were gonna deny it...

overkill to remove all paint as the paint just needs keying. I have done loads of jobs with good result with good cans. As demonufo states good prep is key get the surface all key'd using medium sand. If surface is not scratched or dinged then will not take too long. tacky rag the surface for dust etc and then apply a even coat of primer over bumper . You can apply a few coats at 30 min intervals and leave last coat to dry overnight. Then rub back the last coat using fine sand and apply 2-3 coats of top coat. Depending on temp you can apply coats every 30 minutes and then leave to dry 48 hours at least before you touch paint or cut paint with a compound to get a smooth shinny surface.

I would recommend getting some good cans mixed up and even 2k lacquer on top, however if you havent got breathing gear perhaps avoided.

Right

1 key surface 400 grit wet and dry

2 fill any imperfections doing this second will a lot the filler to stick to paint

3 rub back filler and bumper again using 400 then 600/800 grit

4 use plastic primer this will not (should not) react with current paint/primer

5 rub back the primer using 800 grit aply another layer or primer and rub back again! Do this until its all covered and smooth

Wipe down with clean water to get dust off

Allow 1 hour is between coats if done in warm is environment

6 Apply first coat of red try not to spray in patches either go up and down over the whole bumper or back and forward across whole bumper repeat as required

Not sure if your red need laquer? I would guess not if not build up a good 4-5 coats and leave to cure for 24-48 hours depending on temps

7 Then use 1200 grit wet and dry (wet with loads of water mixed with fairy liquid this will polish it up don't go mad and lake off loads of layers your just after removing any "orange peel" and flattening out the paint

8 get some cutting compound and a cloth and polish the life out of it!!! The wax it

It's not the exact way it would be done in a spray shop but its by far the simplest way of getting the best results at home and works for me! I've re sprayed many panels at home this way

Best of luck

I would recommend getting some good cans mixed up and even 2k lacquer on top, however if you havent got breathing gear perhaps avoided.

+1

I lacquered mine and you are able to cut back better to give and real good finish, but boy that dust get everywhere.

need to be really careful with 2k, can make you pretty sick if inhaled, its much worse than normal spray paints, you really need a proper 2k mask, 3m do disposable ones (non air fed), a normal mask is not enough.

I really wouldn't recommend 2pk paints to anybody doing a first attempt job. I used to spray that crap on a regular basis, and you NEED good ventilation, and a good mask. (Personally, I would NEVER spray it without a proper suction booth, and an air-fed mask) It is VERY toxic, and will slowly kill you if you use it regularly without the correct PPE.

Also, the big downside of 2pk poly, it is dries VERY hard, making it very difficult to polish up and rework. It gives little margin for error. But if you get it right, it's fantastic stuff.

Beginners are best sticking with good ol' soft cellulose. VERY easy to rework and polish. But usually most aerosol paint is acrylic nowadays, so you'll probably have to make do. (Actually, most things are going water-based now it seems, but I've not seen water-based sprays on the mass market just yet)

Thank you all guys, just one question will I need lacquer?

If its standard cellulose stuff then no!!

All the above aside I personally would get something like a bumper painted properly at a bodyshop. Rattle cans are for small touch ups IMO

Edited 14 March, 201313 yr by Frisco

If its standard cellulose stuff then no!!

It's from halfords?

If the paint is in good condition, no cracks etc, personally I would just use a red scotchbrite pad on it with plenty of water then just paint straight over it... Theres really no need to sand it or put primer on it at all.