Have a look in the Classifieds as there is a set of the earlier (much better) locking bolts

Thanks never thought of looking there !

Are the wheel bolts the same on all Skodas ? Same length etc.

Yes copper slip can be used to reduce this issue also; basic problem of dissimilar metal corrosion, made worse by winter rain mixed with road salt.

TP

Can you use copper slip on wheel nuts/ I thought that it was dangerous as nuts could be overtorqued on tightening due to reduced friction ands also come undone in transit!

Yes I apply a thin coating to the last few bolt threads and between the mating faces of the rim and hub.

 

 

TP

Thanks never thought of looking there !

Are the wheel bolts the same on all Skodas ? Same length etc.

 

I believe so yes.

Yes I apply a thin coating to the last few bolt threads and between the mating faces of the rim and hub.

 

 

TP

Thanks - I will do that, when I changed from summers to winters a week ago it took all my strength to shift the wheel bolts even using a 'spider'. I torqued the nuts to 120Nm when I put the summers on in the spring but when I eventually got them off I could see traces of corrosion on the threads which, I assume, was responsible for the extreme tightness. I remember thinking that if I had a puncture there was no way I would have ben able to change the wheel by the roadside using the Skoda supplied nut wrench.

Last time mine was serviced I got Sinclairs to remove the locking wheel nuts and replace them with ordinary nuts.

I did that with my first and had my current yeti delivered without lockers-no use to me having a car where an impact gun is the only way to remove a wheel.

There was a thread a while ago where folk got a bit heated over the coppaslip issue. 

I have always used a thin smear (the aerosols are very convenient) since having to cut a wheel off, with a lot of collateral damage. 

VAG wheel bolts aside, it is generally accepted that fasteners are best lubricated before torquing.  The rational being it is impossible to know the friction value on a used fastener, so the result is more consistent.

The lubed torque spec for a grade 8.8 bolt is 101, dry that goes up to 141, both Nm.  VAG specifies 120 Nm's, so maybe a lower quality steel, or perhaps they know most times they will be abused with a rattle gun.

When I have new tyres fitted, my first job is always to immediately remove the bolts and wheels, apply a smidge of coppaslip and replace.  After years of practice, I am pretty good at getting the torque within tolerance.  I do have a snap on torque wrench, but I don't carry it around in case of punctures. 

Getting a suitable wheel brace or correctly sized socket and kit could be a good idea. 

Has fireblade checked his bolts yet?

Anyway local tyre place who normally swap my winter tyres over couldnt get the locking nuts off.

So off on a 90mile round trip tomorrow to the Skoda dealer to get them replaced with plain bolts - apparently a common job for them.

 

Rather annoying but far better to find out now than at that the side of a road miles from nowhere.

Strongly urge anyone with these locking nuts to think seriously of replacing them.

The problem is:

 

- the tightening torque is quite high at 120Nm

- the tool tends to cam out of the bolt because of its length and the shallow engagement

 

If you replace them with a set of McGard ones and a dab of copper grease* you should have no further problems - except that the little plastic nut covers won't fit.  On the other hand, you WANT thieves to see that you have a locking nut on each wheel, so the nut cover is a stupid idea anyway.

 

 

*I know some people think this will cause your wheels to fall off, but they're bonkers