The lad's Fun started steaming on Thursday and the AA man thinks it was the head gasket. Unfortunately its 40 miles away at his college so I haven't been able to check for anything else.

As its the OHC engine it looks like major surgery if it is the head gasket. I've kind of been talked round to trying to fix it (as he's a poor student etc - cue violins) but wondering if anyone can offer any advice?

Is the head likely to need a skim?

From a quick read of Haynes, looks like getting the head back on without the valves and pistons coming into contact requires a bit of care, and of course the timing belt with have to be replaced properly.

I'm thinking I'll need the following:

Head gasket

Head bolts

Inlet/exhaust manifold gasket

Cam belt kit

Oil/Coolant

Does that sound complete?

Edited 29 April, 201313 yr by juan27

Sounds about right, but if you're not too confident in your own ability, it may be best left to professionals. It would also need the head skimmed as its likely to have warped while she boiled over. And while you're at that end of the engine, if it was me, I'd change the valve stem seals, maybe even go so far as to grind the valves.

Before you remove the head check that the thermostat housing internals haven't broken up.

Before you remove the head check that the thermostat housing internals haven't broken up.

If so are we are saying the thermostat couldn't open, hence overheating?

Ah I see.....http://www.briskoda....mostat +felicia (edit)

Edited 29 April, 201313 yr by juan27

Sounds about right, but if you're not too confident in your own ability, it may be best left to professionals. It would also need the head skimmed as its likely to have warped while she boiled over. And while you're at that end of the engine, if it was me, I'd change the valve stem seals, maybe even go so far as to grind the valves.

So head skim is practically a certainty? That complicates things. I hope its the thermostat (see above)

Edited 29 April, 201313 yr by juan27

I dunno what they're like on the 1.6, but I know they're troublesome on the 1.3. I hope it is the thermostat, that'd be handy.

Just out of curiosity, the high temperature warning light was on prior steaming?

A cylinder head gasket kit will include the head gasket and intake/exhaust gasket plus a camshaft oil seal and stem seals, in intake doesn't have a gasket on those, it uses 4 rubber o ring type things. if you are going to that much trouble you should fit a new water pump at the same time too..

it's not too difficult a job to remove and refit the cylinder head on one of those, easily doable inside one day. It's worth checking the head before getting it skimmed, it might not need it, there is a place down near trafalgar gate in Portsmouth that can do them, they sometimes do them while you wait if you ask nicely to save you the hassle of driving back later.

edit; you will need an m10 spline socket for the cylinder head bolts too, but other than that everything else is just your basic hand tools, there is one self tapping philips screw under the drivers side engine mounting that hold the timing belt cover on that is a pig to get to, but I normally 'loose' this screw when reassembling them.

Just out of curiosity, the high temperature warning light was on prior steaming?

Not my car and I wasn't in it at the time, but I assume so.

Are you asking just to say 'why didn't the driver stop when the warning light came on?' or is there another reason?

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

Are you asking just to say 'why didn't the driver stop when the warning light came on?' or is there another reason?

I believe it is important to know if the over-temperature warning circuit is ok (from sensor to bulb). You don't want same thing happen twice just because the bulb is bad and the warning doesn't come on in due time.

Other than that, I subscribe to all said above. Gather clues. Find the cause. When you have the evidence, start repairing. Keep us posted.

Yer, if you are in west Sussex I'm not too far away if you need help overseeing the difficult bits or if you need to borrow some tools or whatever.

just as a pointer, I don't know what the Haynes book says because I've never looked in the one I've got, but if you do take the head off it's easier to lift it off in one piece with the intake and exhaust manifolds still attached as one complete assembly.

I believe it is important to know if the over-temperature warning circuit is ok (from sensor to bulb). You don't want same thing happen twice just because the bulb is bad and the warning doesn't come on in due time.

Sensible thinking

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

Yer, if you are in west Sussex I'm not too far away if you need help overseeing the difficult bits or if you need to borrow some tools or whatever.

just as a pointer, I don't know what the Haynes book says because I've never looked in the one I've got, but if you do take the head off it's easier to lift it off in one piece with the intake and exhaust manifolds still attached as one complete assembly.

Thanks for that... Haynes seem to suggest removing manifolds iirc but obviously I'd like to avoid disturbing as much as possible.

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

i got to take my head off mine soon as it drinks oil i would just take it off in one piece like tom says as bolts are hard to take out on manifold+intake i have a spare engine so have taken that apart to rebuild... will make life easyer lifting it off in one i would check that fan works bridge switch on rad and thormo stat before taking head off whats the mileage and a felicia don't had a over heat light

??? and a felicia don't had a over heat light

Anyway, I understand you don't have an over-temperature warning light. Well, as a matter of fact, all Felicia cars in Poland (probably in other countries too) have a warning light that comes on when radiator fan switch closes. In our user manual says you have to stop immediately if that light comes on while moving, and it is normal to stay on some 20-30 seconds when idling, especially during summer.

My car has the light, it is orange. I have it in the left, last slot of warning lights, near the temperature gauge. The sign on it shows a thermometer in hot water. I don't see often that light of warning because it is very cold in my village :(

The right hand drive uk spec cars don't have a temperature warning lamp or a fan switch closure lamp.... They have a trailer warning and seat belt warning lamp instead I believe, the seat let warning lamp is only wired up on the L&K model

The right hand drive uk spec cars don't have a temperature warning lamp or a fan switch closure lamp.... They have a trailer warning and seat belt warning lamp instead I believe, the seat let warning lamp is only wired up on the L&K model

At the risk of getting way off topic, what does the trailer warning light do? I spliced my trailer socket into the rear light cluster wiring following the guide that came with the kit.

Trailer directional lights blinker (located top center between left-right directional light arrows).

Edited 2 May, 201313 yr by adurer

i spliced this wire in to the buzzer wire on relay in side so this lights up....

and seat belt one works with my alarm immobliser...

Panic over.... failed thermostat housing.

Pin punched a hole.

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2