My Superb II (1.8 TSI petrol), is nearly 5 years old and I want to change the battery (12V 70Ah 340A DIN). This is the sort of thing I've always done myself, however, the owner's manual (page 230) says do this at a garage, so I wonder...

What special precautions should be taken for this car when changing the battery?

Page 231 says when disconnecting, disconnect first the negative terminal. and when reconnecting first connect the positive terminal.

Yes, I think I can manage that, but how about the ignition, do I leave the key in?

What about the Columbus, will I need to enter some code number after re-connecting?

Anything else? Your guidence would be much appreciated.

Mine's a diesel, though I don't see what difference that would make. I upgraded to a Varta Silverline 77Ah recently (which is the most powerful I could find that had the same dimensions as the OEM). Terminal disconnection procedure is standard for any car, I think. The Columbus didn't ask for anything, though I had my radio code to hand just in case. I didn't leave the key in and would think it's probably not a good idea to do so. The ESP light came on at next start up, but went out after driving a short distance. Had to reset the clock, of course.

Take the key out of the ignition then disconnect the negative terminal then the positive terminal, replace battery and reconnect the positive first and then the negative terminals. You may lose your radio so will have to reset the security code this will also apply to any memorey settings as in seats, window etc that will have to be reprogrammed.

Edited 5 May, 201313 yr by Danny 57

When you put the new battery in, you will have an ESC light (and maybe a warning message), TPMS light and power steering light. These will all go away after 100m of driving or less.

You'll have to re-adapt the power windows or else the one-touch-automatic function will not work. To do this, roll them all up and down manually twice. After that they're OK. If you have a sunroof, you may need to do the same (roll open and close manually twice) but on mine I didn't need to do this.

If you have a powered boot lid (combi) and you change the battery while the boot is open, you need to re-adapt the boot motor, or else when you try to close it you get two beeps. To do this, gently push the lid shut. It will lock itself, then you can open normally. If you have set an upper limit, you might need to set this again.

Your radio/nav unit will not ask for a code as long as the ECU identifies itself with the same VIN, i.e. you only need to enter a code into VAG radios when you swap them between cars or change the central electronics or engine control module as it thinks it's in a new car.

The battery is held in with a bolt on one side. Remove this bolt (13mm socket with an extension bar is ideal). On some cars, the intake pipe is in the way of the bolt. You can unscrew the top of the air filter cover and push it out of the way. Ensure that you block the intake and top of the filter with a clean cover (i.e. clean cotton or plastic) to ensure that no debris enters the engine.

Wokwon, you should be more thorough. .

Very good explanation I must say.

Wokwon, you should be more thorough. .

It's fresh in my mind, I just did it this weekend to install the PTC heater and reversing camera. Usually I'm lucky if I can remember what I had for breakfast.

I also lost a spanner down the gap between the engine compartment and front-left quarter panel so I'll have to take the wheel arch liner out this weekend to see if I can find it.

Edited 6 May, 201313 yr by wokwon

Best write up on battery change I've ever seen!

PTC heater = ?

It's fresh in my mind, I just did it this weekend to install the PTC heater and reversing camera. Usually I'm lucky if I can remember what I had for breakfast.

I also lost a spanner down the gap between the engine compartment and front-left quarter panel so I'll have to take the wheel arch liner out this weekend to see if I can find it.

Don't forget or you will be wondering what that rattle/knocking noise is.

PTC heater = ?

1.2kW eletric booster heater that drops in the aircon box. See this thread:http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/220727-option-code-or-part-number-for-ptc-heater-element/

Thanks you Devon Wanderer, Danny 57 and Wokwon, I managed to do the job with very minor jitters.

Wokwon: special thanks for the screenshot of the manual.

The old battery was a Banner 70Ah.

The new battery came from VAG dealer here in Madrid Spain, it's the official replacement, a Varta 72Ah for 122 eur.

The nearest Skoda dealer wanted 190 eur for the job.

Operations performed:

1. Made sure all doors and boot closed, all electrics off.

2. Removed key from ignition.

3. Accessed battery, removed top plastic cover.

4. Removed front half of plastic housing.

5. Disconnected negative terminal.

6. Disconnected positive terminal.

7. Removed retaining clamp (bit of a sod) with regular 13mm spanner (see photo), (Wokwon: secured with string ;-) AND it proved effective, actually).

8. Lifted out old battery.

9. Went to get new battery from boot, but boot wouldn't open.

10.Re-installed old battery, first positive terminal then negative.

11.Managed to open boot, got new battery out.

12.Re-disconnected old battery, first negative then positive.

13.Lifted out old battery again.

14.Lifted new battery in.

15.Re-connected positive terminal then negative.

16.Checked that the car would start, yes it did.

17.Screwed in retaining clamp, put back plastic housings.

18.Had a nice fag, thinking of the money I saved by doing this meself.

Observation: steps 9-13 can probably be omitted if you do this job when you're sober.

BTW

All windows and sunroof worked normally, no need for further adjustment.

Columbus turns on ok, doesn't ask for code.

Need to reset MFI Time.

Thank you again, all.

oops, forgot the photo:

oops, forgot the photo:

LOL nice.

Observation: steps 9-13 can probably be omitted if you do this job when you're sober.

Finally, an explanation for why every car/home DIY job I commence ends up including a step 9-13.