I know a couple have done this,

Jason and Simon are two that spring to mind! It's easy enough to do, the only issue is I'm not sure what gauge wire to run back to the battery?

Anyone done it that can shed some light? Simons inbox is full and I don't want to pester Jason as he's busy enough moderating etc.

Cheers all

I'd be interested to know how heavy the cables are, compared to a lighter battery.

It's only 1 cable (i think, lol) and a short earth wire, not particularly heavy! Main reason for doing it is I need to make space in the engine bay

I'd use at least 40amp wire.

Not just weight, but also the distribution too surely?

I dont think say 10-15KG will make a noticable/worthwhile difference IMO

5 metres of the marine grade cable I used probably weighed in around 2kg, maybe 3? It was chunky, but not stupid heavy. I think a battery must weigh in around 15kg, and moving it to the back is definitely a good move. Actually my cable is thinner than many of these 4AWG kits you get from halfords for wiring in subs etc as they are all chunky rubber whereas the wire I used had better internals and a tougher, thinner, sheathing. Been good now for quite some time in my case, and I know Simon has only just done the swap but it showed at Castle Combe as I never got past him (mainly thanks to my trackday tyres taking ages to warm up though....)

Oops sorry Josh, I must clear my inbox out!

I weighed it before I put the cable in. 5 metres came in at 2kg, that was for 35mm2 stuff which is 300amps, more than enough!

I got mine locally but there are some places on ebay that sell it in a 5 metre reel for about £35.

I could definitely feel the difference in handling, my Bosch battery weighs 17kg which is now slung really low right at the back end - rather than fore of the front axle, and high up. The 2kg of cable is obviously spread down the passenger side of the car.

Other good thing with the fabia boot is it has two massive vents at the back so of there are any nasty gasses, they can escape. sometimes a window helps for other noxious gasses though...

Edited 7 May, 201313 yr by SimonK24

Has anybody got a picture off the battery being relicated to boot

What have you lined the boot with Simon?

Moved mine to the boot a while ago too. My upgraded battery weighs 19 kg so moving it to the boot in a lower position than it was in the engine bay makes a significant improvement in the handling . Binned the air con as well!

Looking at the two pictures, it seems that the cables are just connected to the battery with a normal clamp. Can I suggest that a fusible link be fitted?

Looking at the two pictures, it seems that the cables are just connected to the battery with a normal clamp. Can I suggest that a fusible link be fitted?

No need, as for me, the fuseable end is still safely tucked away in the engine bay. I merely extended the main power lead from 30cm (ish) to 4 to 5 metres. Should never be an issue with current, etc from extending that cable. If anything the newer cable is better than the oem cable.

Thanks all for the help and replies!

I've managed to 'source' some heavy duty wire perfect for the job from work, from a set of jump leads used for jump starting heavy plant..should cope with start up amps of a car with no dramas.

I intent to use the old battery box as a closed induction style thing. Keeping the lid with fuses etc still safely in place

Wish me luck... lol

No need, as for me, the fuseable end is still safely tucked away in the engine bay. I merely extended the main power lead from 30cm (ish) to 4 to 5 metres. Should never be an issue with current, etc from extending that cable. If anything the newer cable is better than the oem cable.

the fuse is there to protect the cable, yours does not do that.

if your positive cable ever chaffs and hits the body of the car you will regret not fitting a fuse as close the battery as possible

I have one under my bed, will install as a fail safe

the fuse is there to protect the cable, yours does not do that.

if your positive cable ever chaffs and hits the body of the car you will regret not fitting a fuse as close the battery as possible

I had this happen to an old recovery truck that ran a second battery in the back.

Only having a 13mm spanner in my top pocket and some quick finger work saved the whole thing going up in flames.

There was a hell of a lot of smoke from the cable insulation burning off though...

Moved mine to the boot a while ago too. My upgraded battery weighs 19 kg so moving it to the boot in a lower position than it was in the engine bay makes a significant improvement in the handling . Binned the air con as well!

I'd imagine that has made quite a difference losing the air-con as well!

Just thought, wont you struggle to get an inline fuse to do this? The type I was thinking was a car audio one used for wiring in subs etc. but isn't the current draw off the starter motor up in the hundreds of amps?

get a marine style anl fuse and holder, i have one here good for 600amps

http://www.shop.sterling-power.com/acatalog/ANL_fuses.html

http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/fuse-holders-and-boxes/anl-fuse-holder-729342

I'dEurope ne that has made quite a difference losing the air-con as well!

It does make a big differance to how sweaty ones ****** get when the temps get warm regarding the removal of the air con. It was broken any way.

Combined with the battery move the steering feel was vastly improved giving you more confidence pushing hard though corners.

I drove a std Vrs the other week and it like it was wearing hob nail boots .

Battery in boot FTW!

I've shifted my A/C too and lost further weight in the form of a lighter flywheel, and a carbon fibre bonnet. Definitely all helps for a slightly better stable feel (which as stock is not exactly A1 is it....)

I've shifted my A/C too and lost further weight in the form of a lighter flywheel, and a carbon fibre bonnet. Definitely all helps for a slightly better stable feel (which as stock is not exactly A1 is it....)

It'll be super light when its burnt to a crisp