That's the idea, it depends if you're doing it for prevention or cure, if cure then you should definitely fit a new HG since the old one will have been damaged by blowby during head lift.

Not really what I wanted to hear but I kinda figured that! Guess it's time for a new HG will have to send it off as I don't have the tools to do the timing on it! Just got it done too :-(

Thanks

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Josh and I replaced mine during the summer. Replaced one at a time and it's been fine.

There is another thread about this somewhere on Briskoda.

What sort of power levels are people running to justify changing to PD150 head bolts? 200+?

I'm only running about 170! I've been experiencing headlift since I got the car but since the fmic went on and there's no boost leaks it's much more noticeable. I've had to top it up twice in the last week where I use to only do it once a month.

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I had head lift at stage one map too

Just pot luck

What are the symptoms of it? I've had a search but can't find anything solid

Coolant loss is the most noticeable effect where it pressurises the expansion tank and spurts coolant out of the overflow. Coolant getting into the combustion chambers is never a good thing either! Thats what ive gathered so far. Someone with a better understanding will probably be along shortly.

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Hi,

 

i also want to change the headbolts to the pd150 ones.

Can pls someone sent me the mentioned PDF instruction manual?

 

thx

Hi,

i also want to change the headbolts to the pd150 ones.

Can pls someone sent me the mentioned PDF instruction manual?

thx

Me too please

And me please!

Me too :P I read the post with the sequence but still a little confused... but it doesnt take much

Me too :p I read the post with the sequence but still a little confused... but it doesnt take much

 

Just change them one at a time, doesn't matter about sequence if you do it that way.

Me too :P I read the post with the sequence but still a little confused... but it doesnt take much

As above, one at a time, old out new in fully tightened down before undoing the next.

sequence is full removal/refit of head to stop the risk of warping.

As above, one at a time, old out new in fully tightened down before undoing the next.

sequence is full removal/refit of head to stop the risk of warping.

Is it worth borrowing a torque wrench from work?

You'll definitely need a torque wrench for the job, as you still have to torque straight to the second stage.

 

After that you just have to angle tighten it. So if you're good you could get the angles yourself, as they're in 90 degree increments. To be properly accurate though you need an angle gauge to put in between your wrench and socket.

ok thanks i will see if we have one at work, never used one...

 

What is the enitial torque ?

 

then do i go 90 degree, until it clicks or something? 

If you're doing them one at a time, go up to 60Nm, then do 90 degrees, wait a minute, then another 90 degrees.

 

As for clicking, that's for your torque setting on the wrench. Definitely get someone to go through how to use it with you before attempting head bolts!

Someone will be along with the correct settings to quote but I recall 40nm - 60nm - 90nm - 90° angle. Went something like that.

An accurate torque wrench is needed, not a 10 year old one that's been left at 120Nm for three year sitting in a tool box. I don't use an angle gauge since its 90° you can tell how much you've turned.

If you want to be more sure, make a mark on the bolt and another mark 90° away from it and turn it until it touches.

Is it possible to just fit these? Im having some coolant loss problems, very very small, talking maximum to minimum in months but want to rule out head lift.

Yeah it's no problem to just fit the head bolts.

Yeah it's no problem to just fit the head bolts.

 

Thanks. Hoping this will cure the problem!

I'm sure it's been said, but just change them one at a time to the correct torque and angle.

Message me if you need some cheap.

If your car is engine code BLT you will need to slacken off the bolts holding the inlet manifold to the head,one bolt fouls on it where EGR bolts on.

thank you both. I dont think I will attempt this, im guessing a VAG specialist will be able to do this fairly easily? Any idea on cost to fit? Hutchy I will be in touch about some bolts.

thank you both. I dont think I will attempt this, im guessing a VAG specialist will be able to do this fairly easily? Any idea on cost to fit? Hutchy I will be in touch about some bolts.

I've done a couple now, I charged £30 to customers, it's quite an easy job but any job with headbolts and high torque comes with risk.

Only one I've ever had snap was my own when removing the cylinder head.