Searched but couldn't find a solid answer.

I have developed a bit of steering shake when braking, jacked up the car and discovered some left to right play in the near side wheel/steering. All the bushes are ok, the track rod end doesn't have play, it is definitely coming from the rack side of the track rod.

So question is, would wear on the inner track rod cause this? I know it screws straight in to the rack but some posts mention a metal ball joint of some sort on this end?

Any help appreciated

Wear in a track rod end always refers to the flexible bearing rather than the threaded rod. This wear is usually, but not always in the rod end rather than the rack or the outer "knuckle".

Wear in a track rod end always refers to the flexible bearing rather than the threaded rod. This wear is usually, but not always in the rod end rather than the rack or the outer "knuckle".

I'm completely confused by that.

There's no play in the track rod end, which is the part which attaches the threaded rod to the hub, the play is at the opposite end.

I have been told there is a sort of ball joint in there so I'm going to check that out, is that what you are referring to?

Mine doesn't wear out the trackrod end ballpoint it always knackers the actual trackrod balljoint(end that screws into the rack)covered by the rubber boot,which is a pain as genuine vw part quite expensive :(

Mine doesn't wear out the trackrod end ballpoint it always knackers the actual trackrod balljoint(end that screws into the rack)covered by the rubber boot,which is a pain as genuine vw part quite expensive :(

Pretty sure that's my issue.

Changing it tomorrow, will update

I'm completely confused by that.

There's no play in the track rod end, which is the part which attaches the threaded rod to the hub, the play is at the opposite end.

I have been told there is a sort of ball joint in there so I'm going to check that out, is that what you are referring to?

Sorry, I thought that you understood that both ends of each track rod are joints and can be replaced.

Sorry, I thought that you understood that both ends of each track rod are joints and can be replaced.

No worries mate, I didn't know that which was why I was thinking it was the rack.

For anyone else reading this, the inner track rod (opposite side from the hub) has a ball joint like connection -

Cut the clips and you will see it

To remove it -

Turn the steering so that whichever track rod you're replacing is fully extended towards you.

Undo this nut (original is 18 mil, my replacement was 19)

(Nut already removed)

Once the nut is off tap the metal arm/track rod a few time until it is shocked loose from the hub.

It's then simply a case of unscrewing the inner track rod, you will need either a 34 mil spanner or an stilson plumbers wrench (which is what I used, spanner would probably be easier).

You don't need the special tool mentioned in some threads it's easy enough with the steering turned.

When you reassemble use loctite on the inner track rod and copper grease where the track rod meets the track rod end, and remember the plastic gaiter/boot at the rack end before fitting the track rod end.

You will also need to count the threads on the old one and do the new one up to the same, I ha d my tracking checked straight after and was only about half a mil out.

Nice, I need to change one of mine before my next MOT. How much was the new track rod roughly?

Don't suppose you remember the sizes of spanners required to hold the rack and to turn off the rod? I know you said 34mm for the rod, but what about when you held the rack?

Skoda workshop manual suggests the job is impossible unless you remove the entire steering gear, you obviously found otherwise!

My old rod ends are fine too, it's the inner joint on the rod that's got play in it.

Nice, I need to change one of mine before my next MOT. How much was the new track rod roughly?

Don't suppose you remember the sizes of spanners required to hold the rack and to turn off the rod? I know you said 34mm for the rod, but what about when you held the rack?

Skoda workshop manual suggests the job is impossible unless you remove the entire steering gear, you obviously found otherwise!

My old rod ends are fine too, it's the inner joint on the rod that's got play in it.

Nah it's not impossible at all, I didn't touch the sub frame and it took me about 40 mins all in.

Some folk will say genuine only but I used aftermarket parts from the factor, the rod was £14 +vat and the track rod end was only a few quid, I decided to change the track rod end as well as I figured it was easier to remove the whole thing rather than **** about trying to separate it.

The rack is all still attached to the car and solid so it doesn't need to be held mate.

IIRC the OE arms are about £50 a pop

The copies don't last half the time though. I've been through a few, although the roads I use weekly it's no wonder

Might have this job to do on the drivers side, but would it be better to do both sides at once? I can't feel any play on the passenger side.

@Vijay2018 - I'd just do the one that's worn; it's quite often the case that one side wears much more than the other.

Thanks Ken. I take it as the original poster suggested, replacing the inner and outer parts together?

@Vijay2018 - It's your car etc, but I've never needed to replace an inner track rod end.

is it normally the outer part that wears then? Are they easy to separate and reassemble?

 

All I don't want is to get things disassembled and find out I haven't got the part I need

@Vijay2018 - Yes, it's normally only the outer rod end that wears. Since you've not filled in the location field in your profile I honestly can't help on price beyond under £20 UK.

Edited 29 December, 20187 yr by KenONeill

Added location. Are they a DIY job to separate?

On an old car like this, both the track rod (the long bit that connects into the steering rack) and the track rod end (the bit that connects at the wheel end) can wear their ball joints out at this age. Usually the grease in the joints has long departed and the ball joints rust/wear. Even a minor sub mm wear will lead to loose steering.

 

Treat it to new track rods and track rod ends, source them yourself for cheapest repair as dealer parts are way over priced, but ECP, GSF, eBay or Amazon have plenty of cheap alternatives. Meyle HD (HD being the important bit) parts, would probably last a lifetime.

 

DIY shouldn't be too difficult , but a fast fit place or independent might be easier and cheap.

 

You will need wheel alignment carried out after replacing track rods and/or ends, but make sure there are no more suspension parts worn out, bushes etc and you have nearly new tyres as this is just as important to sort before carrying out wheel alignment.

 

@Vijay2018

OK, look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steering_knuckle The photo is for a double wishbone suspension, but there's also a good exploded diagram of a strut system.

 

To change the outer rod end ( also @xman My car is on 140_000 miles and unless they were replaced with the exchange rack at 125_000 the inner ends are original), you'll need a ball joint splitter and a set of open ended or combination spanners.

 

Loosen the lock nut on the arm near the rod end. It will be tight, and only needs to be loose. Now find the flat on the arm itself, and use that to undo the arm from the joint. Remove the other nut, and use the joint splitter to remove the joint from the hub (labelled knuckle (US practice)). Reassembly is the reverse process, except that the splitter is not required.

 

Now go and get the tracking checked!

4 hours ago, xman said:

 

 

You will need wheel alignment carried out after replacing track rods and/or ends, but make sure there are no more suspension parts worn out, bushes etc and you have nearly new tyres as this is just as important to sort before carrying out wheel alignment.

 

Wise words indeed - the one that can be forgotten is the strut top bearing which can fail (you don't always notice just drving the car) and it's then impossible to track the car correctly

 

 

Thanks guys