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Immobiliser

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Vehicle TDi 90 estate, 99 vintage.

Fault - intermittent imobiliser fault, escpecially after being stood all night.

Symptom - immobilisor warning light flashing and not going off. car starts and stops.

Eventually it resets itself. The car runs fine all day

Skoda Diagnostic codes states that there is a weak signal from key to immobiliser. Different keys make no difference.

Skoda man says there was an updated wire from the key to the module.

Question. The key end bit bit is not a problem I dont think. I presume I can get at it without removing the steering wheel.

Where the hell does the other end of the two wires connect to.

The wires are twisted about 12 to 14 inches long with a two pin plug at one end and two pins at the other which look as though they fit in a multi block or something.

Any body any ideas before I start to systamatically destroy the car or have to pay skoda man to fit

He is spot on in his diagnosis i'd say.

The other end of the wiring loom goes to the dash insert.

:agree: :agree: :agree:

He is spot on in his diagnosis i'd say.

The other end of the wiring loom goes to the dash insert.

You do not have to remove the steering wheel. The fiddly bits are removing the column shrouds and removing the old wires from the multi plug at the dash. The dash insert does need to be removed.

  • Author

Just to clarify by dash do you mean the multi plugs at the back of the speedo and rev counter housing

Geoff

Hi yes there is a mod and these have been known to do down.

Green and red if i remenber right.

Little loom.

Does work and is a cheep option.

There was an e mail sent to all dealers in regards these mods.

Could be cheeky and ask your dealer , wether they will help or not though is another thing.

Sarah

Remove column shrouds and dash panel insert, the plugs on the dash insert do not just pull off, there is a lever on them you have to lift. Trace the green and black wires from the read coil on the ignition barrel back to where they enter the dash plug and remove them - carefully (fiddly bit), noting their positions. Unplug the wire at the ignition barrel (there is lug you need to lift to release it). To get an idea of how the loom un plugs - look at the new loom.

  • Author
Remove column shrouds and dash panel insert, the plugs on the dash insert do not just pull off, there is a lever on them you have to lift. Trace the green and black wires from the read coil on the ignition barrel back to where they enter the dash plug and remove them - carefully (fiddly bit), noting their positions. Unplug the wire at the ignition barrel (there is lug you need to lift to release it). To get an idea of how the loom un plugs - look at the new loom.

Well I took the bit between my teeth and had a go. Couldnt get the bottom shroud off. Rang Skoda dealer to find out how to remove. quote. "on that model you have to remove the steering wheeel to get at two retaining screws. It discourages DIY repairs". Not wanting to interfere with the air bag side of things and try to remove the steering wheel I bodged the job. I cut the black and green wire as close as I could to the ignition switch and soldered the new cable in. Did the same at the speedo end and luckily the car started alright. Time will tell I suppose.

A big thank you to all who took the trouble to respond to my thread. Your comments were really helpful.

Regards

Geoff

  • 3 years later...

Thanks Guys

This thread, even though a few years old, proved really useful for my Octavia TD1 Mk1 (2000) that had the same symptoms as described above. Apparantly the Fabia suffer the same problems?

The local skoda parts department were unaware of the background, but armed with the information from this thread they did eventually come up with the modified part (Part No. 000979018A) and they kept it in stock. At first they only supplied one wire. Again from this thread I knew there would be two wires so I asked for a second wire and replaced both at the same time. Whilst both the new wires are identical (Yellow) I coloured one of them to ensure that the same connections were made at each end.

Whilst a bit fiddly the plastic plug at the key, coil, end comes appart quite easliy once unpluged and the replacement wires slot in. Also the mutli plug at the back of the instrument cluster comes apart in a methodical way, so no force is needed. The key is to cut the plastic tie that holds the cluster of wires as they enter the main plug to the plastic plug housing. The end of the retangular plug then slides off and the external housing /sleeve slides off. All the wires and the connections are then visible and the old wires (traced back), in my case they were green and black, can be unplugged and the new ones slotted in. I found that a micro screwdriver was a very helpful tool to assist in dismantling the connections at both ends.

No need to take the steering wheel of my car. I just needed a longer philips screwdriver and had to turn the steering wheel to expose the two screws

Many thanks to all those that contributed to the thread and I hope my update proves helpful to anyone else that wishes to have a go at solving this problem.

Deadly

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