Got a few electrical issues/questions with my Felicia I'm hoping some of you can help with
 

• There is no telltale on the instrument panel that shows when the headlights are turned on - should there be and has the bulb failed?
• One of the bulbs that illuminates the speedometer has failed - are replacements readily available?
• The interior light does not operate when doors are opened despite being set to the "doors open" setting.  The light does work if it's turned to the on position.
• The "headlights on warning buzzer" does not function - were all models fitted with this?  It looks like the relay R6 is missing.

Thanks in advance.

Sorted the first two things but can't seem to find any answers for the rest - anyone able to help?

• The interior light does not operate when doors are opened despite being set to the "doors open" setting.  The light does work if it's turned to the on position.

This one of those things where Skoda opted for a cheap, unreliable design. You need to take out the lamp and bend the flat spring contacts inside (arrow).

 

• The "headlights on warning buzzer" does not function - were all models fitted with this?  It looks like the relay R6 is missing.

R6 'relay' has the warning buzzer inside. If R6 seems to be missing... guess what? No buzzer.

All Felicia cars have it installed afaik.

Thanks, I'll check out the light and see if I can get if working!

Do you know if the relay is model/engine specific? I know that one from a mk1 petrol doesn't fit because I got one from a breaker car when getting other bits!

It could be that the courtesy light switch on the drivers door is not working, if it's not working the lights on warning won't work.  I recall that the later Felicias had the lights on warning buzzer located on the back of the instrument panel, not in the fusebox.

Do you know if the relay is model/engine specific? I know that one from a mk1 petrol doesn't fit because I got one from a breaker car when getting other bits!

No, they are not model/engine specific. But Fordfan might have a point (see photo below). If you happen to take out the PCB of your dashboard, please take high resolution, well lit, well focused photos of both faces. Skoda keeps Felicia instrument cluster schematics in a safe   

 

About door contact(s): not so sure if both door contacts are broke. It's not impossible to fail both on their own, just very remote.

 

Edited 6 November, 201312 yr by adurer

If that's what we think is a buzzer, my instrument cluster does have one of those on the back!

 

I need to take it out in a bit to change another bulb, so I'll try to take some photos when I do.

 

I attempted to fix the interior light last night but ended up with it on in all 3 positions so I need to try again!

Edited 7 November, 201312 yr by gmrtn14

I attempted to fix the interior light last night but ended up with it on in all 3 positions so I need to try again! 

It is a pita to set the right amount of tension on those contacts. When I took the photos of my lamp, I had to figure out how VW designed it to work. I was one step away to add a 3-position rocker switch and get rid of that factory 'switch' mess. Identify the pins of lamp connector and use an ohmmeter to check proper operation. You can change the bulb with a 10W one while doing that. Fiat lux!

I had a bit of free time and decided to help you all the way. Here is how things work: the photo shows the OFF position. When you flip the lamp lens to middle position (on when door open), the right plastic tab slides and pushes only spring contact 2 against DOOR SWITCH pin. When you flip the cover lens to always ON position, the right plastic tab slides more and pushes also spring contact 1 to ground pin. You have to ensure you have free sliding movement of those plastic tabs and that lamp lens pushes them easily. Some grease could help also to those cover lens pegs serving as 'hinge'.

 

On buzzer malfunction part: is it not buzzing no matter which door you open with side/headlights on?

 

 

Edited 7 November, 201312 yr by adurer

Thank you so much for the detailed diagram - I hope someone else with the same problem can benefit from it too!

The buzzer does not seem to work no matter what door is opened - it's lead to me draining the battery through leaving the lights on once already! :(

One last check: door switches. We'll do that at interior lamp connector (see photo). First you need to check if pin 1 is connected to ground. Connect the ohmmeter between pin 1 and a known good ground. Then connect the ohmmeter between pin 3 and pin 1 and open/close front doors in turn to see if you have continuity when one door is opened and the other is closed.

 

Open circuit no matter whether the doors are open or closed. The ground is connected.

Got the light to now be on in the two positions and off in the off position though so I've not really made it worse....

Open circuit... this means either the very remote scenario proves to be true (both door switches failed) or their wiring has no continuity. Take switches out, check if pin 1 (brown wire) goes to ground. If OK, uncover bottom left or right A pillar area and look for a 6-pin connector. At pin 6 (brown/white wire) both door switches (pins #3) meet. Check wiring all the way to interior lamp connector and also to instruments cluster PCB (yellow connector, pin 4, blue wire).

Thank you, I'll get to it if I have time this weekend

Are the switches push-to-make or push-to-break ?

"Push to break" or better said normally closed.