ok guys please bear with me here as I know very little about the car as its the in-laws car

 

all I know is its a 2009 skoda superb diesel with auto box (I think its a 1.9 tdi pd engine?) or looks very similar to the 1.9 tdi engines in the vag range.

 

car was taken off the road last year with a gearbox issue, car has sat ever since.

 

I decided I would look into it and fix it for them as its a waste of a car sitting doing nothing.

 

only problem we now have is the car wont start, it'll turn over and cough into life then immediately die, sometimes it'll just turn over and over.

 

done a scan with vag com but there is no engine faults showing

 

 

im sure its a fueling issue but no idea where to start on these diesel engines

Diesel will start to go off after 6 months and can absorb moisture. I suggest you drain the tank, put a new fuel filter in and fill up with fresh diesel.

Tank was near empty, was reading 20 mile left to the tank. So I added 1/4 a tank how would I properly drain the system?

I wouldn't worry about the fuel in that length of time. Have you done a purge cycle to make sure there is no air in system?

I have no idea how to do a purge cycle?

I have no idea how to do a purge cycle?

You'll have to ask someone who uses VCDS to give you instructions, a quick google threw up this page, but it may be different for PD engine if that's what you have. Find out whether you have a PD or CR engine first... http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/2009-2010-VW-TDI-fuel-filter.htm

Once you've completed a purge cycle if that doesn't work check pump in tank and feed pipes are free from blockages.

would air in the system cause the car to start then immediately cut out after numerous attempts? all diesels ive worked on normally when u get it started it'll splutter, stay started and push all the air out the system and is fine after that

its a 2.0 tdi 140bhp, engine code bmp with a dsg box

 

guessing its common rail?

That's a 2.0 for sure if it's auto, CR if the engine cover is like this / / / PD if it's like this l l l

 

I think it's just gone dry,

 

open the filter housing (behind driver headlight) empty it and fill with fresh fuel and make sure it's fully filled, do the cranking a few more times and see how it goes

 

if it doesn't run try some easy start straight into the air intake pipe (runs behind the engine from the air filter seperate it after the MAF)

 

other things to check are the air filter and where the air enters it, look for a birds nest

 

and make sure someone hasn't restricted the exhaust by stuffing something up the tailpipe (you never know someone previous may have had a grudge)

 

other than that the two fuel pumps would be prime candidates, the lift and tandem (tank & side of the head)

 

then it could be an injector/glowplug or the loom inside the head

 

best action before you spend is to get it scanned though, hth.

Edited 8 August, 201312 yr by Supurbia

ive had it scanned and didn't flag up any engine codes, there was an immob fault to do with key but it cleared and I even tried the spare key and both keys gave same sypmtoms

Try the easy start, this will show you if it's a delivery problem or an electronic problem.

 

Might be worth new fob batteries, they are 4 years old and even a battery with power still can cause this and kick the imob in.

 

Is there a re-programming method for the keys, if the car has sat idle for a long time the ecu may not be recognising the keys anymore, with old VX's you simply put the ign on and hold one of the buttons to re-prog, not sure if it's applicable on modern cars anymore though and you may need the car on the computer to re-enable chat between the key and the car.

Edited 8 August, 201312 yr by Supurbia

I did try easy start and made no difference but then again it was a female spraying it in for me

I did try easy start and made no difference but then again it was a female spraying it in for me

 

 

I'd go for some new batteries tbh, if there are no codes it has to be the anti theft thing kicking in.

 

 

Test the lift pump, get her to push the key to pos 2 while you put your ear on the back seat behind the drivers seat and listen for a whirr or a whosh, if you don't hear it the lift pump is dead and possibly could be the fault as it doesn't throw a code when it flakes out.

 

Same thing with the egr you should hear a buzz when you push the key in.

Edited 8 August, 201312 yr by Supurbia

but my thinking is if the immob was kicking in it would leave a fault code "engine blocked by immob" or something along those lines as ive had codes similar to that on different vag's

the lift pump works for sure

but my thinking is if the immob was kicking in it would leave a fault code "engine blocked by immob" or something along those lines as ive had codes similar to that on different vag's

 

 

Not always as it will be deciding if it's got a fault or someone is trying to start it with the wrong key,

 

 

Do the other tests I listed above first,

 

There is a curve ball I'm afraid, the fact it's not started and ran for a while may mean the ecu isn't getting enough time to log a fault so there might well be one waiting to log up, this I would assume will need a Skoda dealer to sort where they should have the diagnostics to dig to a lower level than Rosstech can possibly.

Try new batteries first.

http://www.skoda-auto.co.in/Worldwide/Model-Documentation/Documents/Superb-Owners-Manual.pdf

 

page 32 & 45

Edited 8 August, 201312 yr by Supurbia

cheers will look into it further tonight

No idea about how VAG cars react, but I'd be surprised if you can turn the engine over and get I to momentarily start if its being immobilised in any way, whether its a dead key or not.

So unless someone can categorically say that you can do the above I wouldn't waste your money changing keyfob batteries.

When I done a 1.8t conversion in my lupo it started for a few seconds then cut out as the immob was matched to the 1.8t ecu once I coded the ecu it started and ran so immob is still much one of the culprits but I doubt its the key as both keys don't work so it'll be something on the car id think

If the immo is the problem the car will start and run normally for 3 seconds before cutting out. The immo light will be on.

When I done a 1.8t conversion in my lupo it started for a few seconds then cut out as the immob was matched to the 1.8t ecu once I coded the ecu it started and ran so immob is still much one of the culprits but I doubt its the key as both keys don't work so it'll be something on the car id think

 

Still worth £3 of new batteries to rule it out and after 4 years they will be due a change,

 

I really think the keys and the car have forgotten each other and need a re-introduction which may need to happen at a Skoda dealer,

 

Some car alarms have a back up battery in them, not sure if Skodas have but it may be worth asking as this could also screw with the immob unit, usual tell tale is the alarm keeps going off on it's own though.

After some more digging around it appears the problem could be more serious! Car still refuses to start.

Seem to be getting an error code of b1041 but can't find much info in this code? It says its an oil level thermal switch or something along those lines??

Any help appreciated

B1041 is usually caused by a CAN-bus problem.

P1041 is usually a problem with injector 1.

Given you seem to be having an immo problem, a CAN-bus fault between the ECU/cluster may well be the cause.