Hi,

 

Considering doing a home oil + filter change. Not done anything on the Skoda or indeed and VAG car before I was wondering how difficult it is and if anybody has any advice? How easy to get to the filter?

 

I've done it on Ford's and Vauxhall before.

I have jack, axle stands etc.

 

Oil was last changed in April but I've done about 8K since then and it won't be done for another 10K from now. Recently had MOT and the car is sound so don't want to pay for all the 'checks'.

 

Oil + filter from Opie ranges from £52 (Millers) - £90 (Motul VW specific)

Main dealer service is £129

 

Is it even worth the hassle?

 

 

Thanks.

 

Rick

 

euro parts have some good deals on at the mo but i would recomend you get the oil filter from GSF as they have propper M.A.N  filters for the same price as europarts rubbish filters   

Hi i have just done mine on a set of ramps seemed east enough to do my car is a petrol 06. What year is yours cos I think they moved the position of the filter but make sure you have a 36 mill socket or really good spanner took me abut 45 mins start to finish.

Have a look here for all the bits needed http://www.vwspares.co.uk/octavia1z_filters.php All proper VAG stuff. You have to replace the sump plug as the washer cannot be removed http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=166

 

As mentioned, make sure you have a suitable socket to get the oil filter off. 

halfrauds have 30% off oil this weekend      unless it's all motorway miles   18K oil changes are balmy   unless it's a company car :-)

Worst job is removing the poxy engine tray jobby underneath mate

Worst job is removing the poxy engine tray jobby underneath mate

You want to try a Scout, the steel under tray weighs a ton, I had to lower/raise it on a trolley jack when doing mine

Worst job is removing the poxy engine tray jobby underneath mate

 

 Oh no its not , the worse job is refitting it.

What's the difference between the fixed & variable oil?

 

I think I have the variable setup. IIRC service book shows DQ1 or similar.

 

I've never seen the service light come on and tend the just change every 10K anyway. Will using standard oil cause any problems?

Is it a Diesel?

 

If so, for fixed interval servicing you need to use Oil that conforms to VW 505.01 spec.

 

For Variable you'll need VW 507.00 spec.

 

However if it's a diesel VRS it'll have a DPF, so you must use 507.00 spec regardless of service interval.

 

If you have a petrol VRS, most of the above still applies except the DPF advice.

 

Also when you reset your service indicator using the procedure in the manual, you will revert to fixed intervals......to reset it to variable you need to use VCDS......at least you do on my 2006 Octavia.    

Edited 26 August, 201312 yr by booke23

Yes its diesel.

I think I'll just let the dealer do it.

Cheers for the advice.

for me there isnt much init at my trusted specialist, so i just let them do it for the sake of £20 or so

5 litres of decent quality VW 507.00 oil will be at least £40, plus the sump plug and oil filter - another £10. 

 

Plus a couple of hours of your weekend, a bad back and scuffed knuckles.

 

£129 for a main dealer service plus a Skoda stamp, a pollen filter, safety check and wash isn't therefore too bad!

 

But I no longer take mine to DM Keith in York. Nice staff on the front desk but the workshop is full of cowboys or numpties, or may be both.

Just priced up the parts at vwspares.co.uk

 

5 litres Quantium platinum Longlife III 507.00   £28.74

 

Genuine VAG oil filter                                       £5.46

 

New Sump Plug                                                £0.90

 

Pollen filter                                                       £8.22

 

                                                 

 

That totals £43.32........I'd rather save the £85 over dealer prices and do it myself and spend it on goodies. Although fair point about scraped knuckles/bad back. 

Edited 27 August, 201312 yr by booke23

It's dead easy. You can spend the money you save, cf having the dealer do it, on things like fuel and air filter which don't get done on a minor service.

You can't buy time though!

 

I'm sure the time taken to swap out the oil varies depending on experience but I like to do things properly.

 

By the time you've priced up, ordered and received the parts, got your scruffy clothes on, arranged all the tools, rearranged the garage to dig out the trolley jack and axel stands, jacked the car up, removed the engine bay cover, drained the oil (the list goes on), then for me it's the best part of half a day.

 

Some of you my scoff at that but if I'm going to the effort required for all of the above then I'll whip off the wheels to check the brakes and suspension, as mentioned above I may as well then swap the air filter and clean the box and I'll then swap out the pollen filter which although simple is fiddly. It also releases all the leaves and debris into the passenger footwell so then I'll hoover the car when I've finished.

 

After I've put everything back in the garage and worked out what I'm going to do with the old oil its then time for a shower before resumming family duties - like I said the best part of half a day.

 

I enjoy my weekends so to use 25% of one to save £80 (even less when you factor in the wash and Skoda stamp in the service book) then for me it's a no brainer.

 

Before I had kids I used to love tinkering with my car, now I love playing with my kids more so I can understand why opinions vary on this. I'm sure saving £80 means more to some too.

 

This all falls apart though when you factor in one of the dodgy parts fitters at the local dealer. Then its an £80 saving AND you know the job has been done properly.

Edited 28 August, 201312 yr by silver1011

This all falls apart though when you factor in one of the dodgy parts fitters at the local dealer. Then its an £80 saving AND you know the job has been done properly.

 

That is the other major reason for doing it myself.....I've suffered the above a couple of times over the years.....oil filter not tightened enough (not on a VAG car) causing an oil leak that gradually gets worse (took 6 months before the oil stain completely disappeared from the drive). Dodgy sealant used on the old sump plug instead of replacing it, over filled with oil etc etc.   

 

It is certainly a faff doing it at home.....a pair of hydraulic ramps would make all the difference, but SWMBO won't allow that! 

the money you save you can buy a PELA pump and make it easier next time   + you can vac out the 1/2 pint of old oil in the filter/oil cooler housing 

the money you save you can buy a PELA pump and make it easier next time   + you can vac out the 1/2 pint of old oil in the filter/oil cooler housing 

 

Absolutely the way to go. Oil/filter takes 20 minutes and costs £35 if you DIY it. No need to mess about under the car, all you need is the bonnet open. 

 

No wonder dealers are raking it in by charging £129+ for the same thing.

Paid £99 for my oil & filter change at Skoda in the end.

 

Looked at all the options including the links above (thank you). It was just a lot simpler to let them do it. The time, buying equip as well as filter tool, being around for delivery, doing the skip run afterwards all add up when I don't have a great deal of time on my hands at the moment.

If you ever want to borrow a Pela oil pump give me a shout.

 

I live in York and have one.

 

Great bit of kit.

 

Phil

Dm Keith do a briskoda discount, usually it's under £30 for a oil service kit

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

If you ever want to borrow a Pela oil pump give me a shout.

 

I live in York and have one.

 

Great bit of kit.

 

Phil

Very kind. Thank you

I changed oil & Filter last week-end myself for the first time on my '11 plate Scout. Here's how I did it.

 

 

Oil + Filter change on ’11 plate Skoda Octavia Scout II 2 Litre TDI CR DPF 103Kw

 

IMPORTANT: There were 2 different types of oil filters listed for this model when I inputted my Reg. No into Eurocarparts website.  One is Mann HU 7008 z or equivalent which is the correct one for the CFHC engine. This is a corrugated  paper type cylinder which comes with 3 o-rings,-one large and 2 smaller. It does NOT have a black plastic spindle integral to it. It DOES have a top and a bottom, so take care when you place it over the plastic spindle attached to your oil filter cap with the 32mm hexagon. Mann make Bosch filters, so don’t waste your money on Bosch.

The other is Fram CH9463AECO or equivalent which is different and has a fixed black plastic spindle running internally through its long axis.

You can see these clearly in Eurocarparts’ website. Make sure you have the correct filter for your engine, and don’t do as I did, drop the oil and then find you’ve got the wrong filter on a Sunday afternoon miles from anywhere. (Not Eurocarparts fault by the way).

Oil? Anything with VAG spec 5-30 SAE Longlife 504.00 507.00 VW. I don’t see the point in blowing £65 on High End brands when you can get exactly the same spec for £32 made by Valvoline. There was a time when I would have done that, but I’m a pensioner now! Anyway, you’re going to change it in 10K. miles aren’t you?

 

I’m assuming you have ramps etc. and the kit for a basic oil change, and some basic knowledge and experience. Get oil hot and, up on the ramps, take the under engine tray off. 4 bolts front, 8 torx self tappers, 4 left, 4 right, and finally 2 bolts rear. The bolts may be slightly rusted but they need to come off. Leave the 2 rears till last and front plastic lugs will keep tray in place till the last minute. I put Copperease on all the threads to make it easier next time.

 

Under the bonnet, locate the oil-filler cap and clean any dirt away around it before removing If you have an airline, just blast it away,-don’t let any dirt drop into the filler hole. Ease off the plastic tray covering and insulating the engine. Lift the front first then gently ease the back 2 poppers off. Take the dipstick out and clean. Find the oil filter cover,-(not easy unless you know what to look for). Its buried away half way down the front of the engine. To gain access you need to unscrew a metal bracket supporting 2 rubber pipes. It’s a single Torx bolt. TAKE CARE not to drop it down the front of the engine. You’ll find if you gently ease the pipes to the right and unclip them from the bracket there will be enough room to remove the big black domed oil filter cover with the 32mm hexagon nut. You will need a socket this size to remove it .

Get a clean rag and feed it round the base of the oil filter housing, making a sort of collar to catch the inevitable drips from the old oil filter when its is removed with some difficulty. Its worth taking your time to do this properly. It saves messy spillage and mopping up afterwards. Get an old pan or tin ready to drop the dirty filter in once you’ve wriggled it free. It WILL come, just take it easy and don’t force it. Get your big 32mm. socket on the cover and unscrew until freed, then wriggle it into the pan. Take old filter off the plastic spindle, (CFHC engines) and NOTE CAREFULLY where the new o-rings are to be replaced once you’ve got the old ones off. The large o-ring on mine is positioned in the second groove down from the top.

There will be residual dirty oil in the base of the filter housing. I used a clean, swarf free rag to soak it up and gently poked it into the crevices until clean.

 

Get under the car and slacken and remove the sump plug, dropping the oil into a suitable container. The sump plug is a steel 19mm hexagon bolt sticking horizontally out facing backwards under the driver’s side (UK). It has a captive steel washer which you do not replace, (unless examination proves it unserviceable), in which case you need a whole new sump plug and washer combined,-unlikely unless an older car. It is NOT the vertically placed recessed bolt with the hexagonal key insert more centrally placed. That’s the gearbox drain plug. Don’t mess with that!!

 

Clean the oil filter cover and integral spindle if CFHC engine, and replace the o-rings with the new ones going exactly in the same place. Smear some clean oil on them ready for re-assembly. When old oil is all out to your satisfaction, put the sump plug back in and tighten to the correct torque, 30Nm. Obviously do NOT overtighten. Replace the oil filter cover with the new filter snapped into place as one unit (remember it has a top and a bottom)and gently ease it back into its housing and screw it in making sure its not cross-threading. Torque to 25Nm. (its on the cap).

Refill with 4.3 Litres of your chosen oil and replace the filler cap. Stick the dipstick back in. When you check the level afterwards you will find it only comes half way up the dipstick,-but that’s what they recommend for oil and filter change, so who am I to argue?

Start the engine and allow to idle while checking for any leaks above and below. If all is well replace the plastic engine cover making sure it snaps into place. Engine off and replace plastic underbody tray with your greased bolts.

I had a mini panic when I tried to rev the engine after a suitable warming up period. It wouldn’t rev over 2000. I had the bonnet open so I thought maybe that was it, but no, it still wouldn’t rev. I took it down the road and it settled down at once. If anyone can tell me why this happened, I’d be grateful.

Finally reset your service indicator. My car has an information display so you just scroll down to ‘service intervals’ and reset, and that annoying little message telling you you need a service goes away for another 10K.miles.

On my Scout with an Information display, there is no oil warning light coming on when the ignition is switched on. It only displays if the oil level is too low or if a fault occurs.

Edited 29 July, 201510 yr by Gizmo68
Torque setting changed

Hi Blaven, nice write up, doing my first change on my octy in a few days so good to get a little heads up.

As for the 2000rpm it's a VAG thing, none of the modern ones will rev over 2000 while in neutral/stationary. I had the same panic moment shortly after picking mine up haha.