I searched on my friend's scrapyard and I found this:

 

It's a BOSE spare wheel subwoofer (amplified) unit from a Mazda 6 and it sounds pretty good.Gows low in frequency and sounds warm.

Unlike the other one this is easy to wire correctly and use it's own amp.Only 5 wires (2 power and 3 signal) and it's straight forward.

 

 

Can't wait to fit it.(pics are from internet,I was lazy )

 

Edited 28 August, 201312 yr by IulianE

Nice find :-)

I`m liking this, time to start looking for one methinks!

Great find mate

 

I m jealeous

today I wired the sub for testing...sounds nice,warm,deep....love it!

 

 

Buuuuuut!  every time I press a button on the HU the sub pops quite loudly...I mean WTF?!

I have 5 wires,3 thin for the stereo signal,and 2 thiker for power...looks easy

 

 

What am I missing?

 

Please help,I know we have some guys very skilled in sound sistems

Okay, so you have parasitic interference somewhere. There are two types of suppressor that can help combat this. One is a mains filter that you can put inline with the subwoofer power supply, the other type is at line level, and will have RCA connectors at each end to put between the head unit and the sub. It's a bit of a "heath-robinson" fix, but without an oscilloscope, or a lot of experimentation and shielding, it's hard to say where the problem is.

Oh yes,that is making alot of sense..I'll buy this isolator .I hope it will cure it,because I want to install this sub so badly

 

And BTW for testing I used some very crap thin wires,can those create that parasite sound?

 

-One more question....where do i hook the power ?If I put direct on the + of the batt the amp will stai on all the time,and drain the batt.Is ok to hook on the ACC wire oh the HU,and the amp to start in the same time with the HU?

 

Thanks mate!

Edited 30 August, 201312 yr by IulianE

Take the power from the bottom of the fuse box. There is 2 or 3 large wires attached with 10mm nuts, one of them is switched ignition

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I wouldn't wire it from ACC on the HU, as it will draw considerable current, on a line meant only for switching use, rather than actually powering anything. You'll just have to find a suitable switched live.

That particular isolator MAY only be good for reducing hum, rather than clicks and pops.

Take the power from the bottom of the fuse box. There is 2 or 3 large wires attached with 10mm nuts, one of them is switched ignition

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I can't use that source,the sub will be off when the engine is off,tu turn it on I must switch the ignition and listen music with all dash lightning....

 

 

 

 

I wouldn't wire it from ACC on the HU, as it will draw considerable current, on a line meant only for switching use, rather than actually powering anything. You'll just have to find a suitable switched live. That particular isolator MAY only be good for reducing hum, rather than clicks and pops.

 

What type od isolator I must use?Show me a model please so I can understant what I'm looking for.I'm not familiar with these

And as for wiring,I found an interesting scheme on the Honda forums

 

 

Is the third wire the remote lead to switch the sub on and off? I would have thought you would only have 2 signal wires as its a single speaker. Physically can't produce stereo sound. Subs are mono.

Is the third wire the remote lead to switch the sub on and off? I would have thought you would only have 2 signal wires as its a single speaker. Physically can't produce stereo sound. Subs are mono.

 

Not necessarily mono. Many have dual voice coils, for stereo signals. It is of course still a monophonic sound source, but capable of receiving stereo signals.

Bloody website is not playing nicely with Firefox!!!!

Surely a dual voice coil speaker will need the exact same signal to both coils?

A suggestion about your popping/feedback issue, I was under the impression that head units don't like sharing common earths to two channels.

I may have read the post wrong, but you've connected the signal wires to the speaker outputs from the head unit? Have you tried connecting them to the low level sub out of the head unit.

If you've connected into the rear speaker for example, the head unit will be seeing a low impedance, it will not like that.

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double post

Edited 31 August, 201312 yr by IulianE

I have connect the sub to the dedicated RCAs on the back of the HU

Surely a dual voice coil speaker will need the exact same signal to both coils?

Not at all. It will reproduce an approximation of both channels. If you were to apply the exact same signal to both coils, what would be the point of having dual voice coils in the first place?

What type of isolator I must use?Show me a model please so I can understant what I'm looking for.I'm not familiar with these

 

http://caraudiosecurity.com/b15n-12amp-noise-filter

First try this for the mains.

 

 

and then this for the RCA's if the first doesn't work.

http://caraudiosecurity.com/pc8-101-rca-noise-supressor

 

 

The ground loop isolator that you linked to is something different altogether.

 

 

 

You could use a relay to provide power, using the switched outlet from the head unit to switch the relay. Be sure to get a relay with a high enough current rating. 10A will probably be way more than sufficient for that little sub though.

Not at all. It will reproduce an approximation of both channels. If you were to apply the exact same signal to both coils, what would be the point of having dual voice coils in the first place?

Learn something new every day!

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There is a slight loss of efficiency due to the coils having slightly conflicting waves, but with bass frequencies this is usually less of an issue.

 

 

Unless listening to stereo Beatles mixes. THAT's a different story...

But even then, the left channel coil will just completely override the right channel coil.

Interesting how you get on with this, looks a tidy way of having abit of deeper bass in the car.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=125530

I thought the whole point of dual voice coils was so you could wire them up in different ways to show different loads. Having two voicecoils trying to play different things at different times would surely cause them to work against each other.

I thought the whole point of dual voice coils was so you could wire them up in different ways to show different loads. Having two voicecoils trying to play different things at different times would surely cause them to work against each other.

No. That is absolutely not the point of dual voice coils at all. And for why? You buy the right speaker for the job, rather than approximate and say, well, one day I might need an 8ohm load or a 2ohm load. Generally speaking, most people who buy dual voice coil woofers use them because they either want to run it off the same source as a pair of speakers, although in all honesty, tri-mode will work just as well and not likely damage most amplifiers, or they want to run it off a stereo source that they cannot combine to mono. And no, they won't be working against each other. Very rarely is there greatly differing information at low frequencies, and the lowest and most pronounced channel will always overcome with little difficulty. Two coils wrapped around one magnet is going to make an approximation, rather than a great electrical fight.