Found another OEM subby :))

[Bowders1]

Did  you get this sorted buddy.

 

i managed to get one of these from a scrappy the other day.

 

I noticed that although there a 5 wires from the end of the last plug on the loom that there are only 4 wires coming out of the sub to the plug. So somewhere on the loom the 5th wire is dead and not going anywhere?

 

That wire is a thin brown/Black one. (was yours the same as notice you have it as red line on right side of RCA in your pic)

Perhaps that wire is not blank in your loom?

 

As I have a STD head unit i have no RCA to use

 

So thinking that i need a relay or something to be able to trigger Sub turning on with HU.

 

So the wiring would be something like

 

SUB

 

- 2 thin wires (think they are a red/back and a brown so wire up to one side of a rear speaker

- 1 thick wire(Blue/Red) to relay (probably pin 87)

- 1 thick wire(Black) to earth

 

Relay 

 

- Pin 87 to Blue/Red wire on Sub

- Pin 86 to Earth

- Pin 85 to HU remote / ariel wire

- Pin 30 to 12v live feed (Battery and fused)

 

any thoughts folks? 

[IulianE]

You have 5 wires and forward on the loom youget 4.....that's because 3 signal wires (stereo) became 2 wires mono; the sub is mono. The thick wires are for power.

To use your Oem stereo the best option is to buy an RCA convertor wich connects on the back speakers and you can get signal direct from the back speakes to the sub's amp Check my topic for the wiring diagram with a relay...I have installed it that way and works perfect.sounds good too

[Bowders1]

Update to this 

 

With my Bose Sub / Amp I had a much better result than expected, and sound is very good actually . Not Bass in your face which is not what i wanted but just a nice complimentary low level Bass sound to my existing set up. i am impressed

 

I decided to follow the wiring diagram up above in the thread and use a relay to ensure the Bose is being switch on only with Stereo.

 

Also having discovered that i could not use the rear speakers to use as a output signal to the Bose sub due to a frequency imbalance i was very pleasantly surprised my std double dim SAT NAV head unit has a number of connections at the back to support ISO to RCA as well as other video AUX connections.

 

Here they are:

 

 

 

 

So after research  I discovered i could get a ready made ISO to RCA loom for VAG cars.

 

This

 

 

 

So now I purchased a female RCA connector and soldered it to the 2 signal wires from the Bose Sub, then connected up to the head unit RCA loom i purchased and job done.  No interference at all.

 

I then went about fitting Sub to spare wheel area.

 

This was easier then expected too as I reused the original wheel / rod. I needed to extend the threaded bar so purchased a length from B&Q. Then I cut some plastic away from the black wheel which holds threaded bar in place and cut down the new one to size and refitted to the plastic wheel.

 

 

 

I also cut out some of the Bose lid to allow the speaker to sound better (as read in other forums)

 

 

 

Installed

 

[demonufo]

Would probably sound a bit deeper if some numpty hadn't cut a hole for the driver. That seriously compromises the whole Bose design. Not that I rate their stuff much anyhow. Or silly little 5 1/4" drivers...

[IulianE]

Glad you like it Mark....is worthing the money/time of instalation.

 

I find out there is another model for Porsche\Audi ,is slightly bigger and has 2 speakers.

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/4815-bose-dual-subwoofers.html

[Bowders1]

Would probably sound a bit deeper if some numpty hadn't cut a hole for the driver. That seriously compromises the whole Bose design. Not that I rate their stuff much anyhow. Or silly little 5 1/4" drivers...

 

That numpty was me buddy....so cheers for that comment   

 

And it don't compromise a thing in fact it makes the sound and bass a hell of a lot deeper, and a well tried mod all all other installs of this sub.

Like i said for me i don't want a big booming sound just something that compliments the current near std set up.  The Fact I need my boot space and would not even upgrade if if costed me loads does the trick perfect for me.

 

Glad you like it Mark....is worthing the money/time of instalation.

 

I find out there is another model for Porsche\Audi ,is slightly bigger and has 2 speakers.

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/4815-bose-dual-subwoofers.html

 

Cheers buddy.

 

yep i saw that too. Don't get me looking at that now......

[demonufo]

It does compromise it, in fact it makes a mockery of the tuning of the entire enclosure. It may sound deeper, but in actual fact that is slower, more resonant, underdamped bass. I'll put money on it being quite peaky on certain frequencies now, if you actually tested it with a signal generator.

[Sysvrs]

Bowders...... Brilliant thread and congrats on getting it all working... Loving the almost factory finish of the install (almost like its designed for the skoda ) +1 for retaining all the boot space and not overpowering the rest of the population with a monster install that could be heard from Jupiter:) on the scour now trying to find one

[Philip Coulson]

I've just ordered the bits on ebay!

[Sysvrs]

Did eBay have one I the subs on there???

[Philip Coulson]

Quite a few of the Mazda 6 subs.

[Phil-W]

Are these things easy enough to wire into an aftermarket HU?

I've been looking at this one...

http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/products/25/131/201/TS-WX610A/page.html

[Bowders1]

Bowders...... Brilliant thread and congrats on getting it all working... Loving the almost factory finish of the install (almost like its designed for the skoda ) +1 for retaining all the boot space and not overpowering the rest of the population with a monster install that could be heard from Jupiter:) on the scour now trying to find one

 

Cheers buddy, it nice to not get too serious on this top top sound......I don't care about a banging top notch in your face sound and nor did the OP on what this thread is all about. Let's face it anything is better than the std rear speakers.

 

 

Did eBay have one I the subs on there???

 

Quite a few  on there dude which is where I got mine.

 

They range a bit on prices

 

This is even a full set of complete speakers,  not that i would get it as my idea  was to do something on a low budget or not at all.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2010-MAZDA-6-BOSE-SUB-WOOFER-SPEAKERS-SOUND-AUDIO-SYSTEM-/280930679121?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item4168c5f951

 

this is the one i have and has the length of wire to mess around with.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-6-bose-sub-woofer-from-spare-wheel-well-GJ5A-66960-/171137913067?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item27d89d50eb

 

Are these things easy enough to wire into an aftermarket HU? I've been looking at this one... http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/products/25/131/201/TS-WX610A/page.html

 

very simple, i did it and i am rubbish with car audio stuff, 

 

Even easier with a aftermarket unit as you typically already get right and left channel RCA's on a more modern aftermarket unit. My STD SAT NAV unit i needed to get ISO to RCA loom

 

I can show pics of the wiring conversation i did  to the end of the  Sub and I copied that wiring diagram on page 1 exactly as it is except the drawing of the amp as i don't have one, so those Bose Sub red and blue wires went straight to RCA loom on head unit and thick red fused wire from relay position 30 goes straight to Battery. I had relay wired up also as per drawing to make Bose Sub switchable with head unit.

[demonufo]

Cheers buddy, it nice to not get too serious on this top top sound......I don't care about a banging top notch in your face sound and nor did the OP on what this thread is all about. Let's face it anything is better than the std rear speakers.

 

Hahaha, this is sooooo true. But if you want to hear bad, you want to try Estate rear speakers. And even Rockford Fosgates in the rear is hardly any improvement, since the enclosure they're in is not really an enclosure at all.

I totally wasted my money there... :(

[Bowders1]

Hahaha, this is sooooo true. But if you want to hear bad, you want to try Estate rear speakers. And even Rockford Fosgates in the rear is hardly any improvement, since the enclosure they're in is not really an enclosure at all.

I totally wasted my money there... :(

 

Where are the speakers on the estate in the rear tailgate, or the rear doors?

 

I know when I disconnected my rear tweeters that improved sound..

 

This is really the first audio I have messed with as normally always under the bonnet or car messing ...

 

May think now about upgrading the fronts to something better , maybe a simple speaker and tweeter tune up.

Any help there would be good on a budget too. 

[demonufo]

They're nasty little 4X6's in the rear quarters, either side of the boot, facing upwards alongside the rear windows. Disconnecting tweeters wasn't an improvement for these despite the huge gap between the door tweeters and main drive unit. :(

It's just really thin and cardboardy, even with the Rockfords (although to be fair, Rockford Fosgate are NOT what they used to be when I was young).

 

As for cheap and good... I dunno. I keep meaning to get JL C3-650's for my fronts, but that's 200 notes that I currently don't have. I'm so out of the loop with car audio (15 years since I was still designing cabinets and doing installs) that I haven't a clue whats hot and whats not nowadays.

[demonufo]

Also, as an aside, to anybody looking at the Bose speaker set...

 

Without the correct enclosures, and more importantly the Bose front end of the stereo, these will sound utterly dreadful. Bose stuff in general is designed in a very funny manner, with small high-powered speakers, that don't necessarily have the best of EQ responses, and are usually wildly away from an even response. The pre-amps tend to have ridiculously unnatural preamp curves to counter this.

 

Similarly, using a Bose system with your own choice of speakers can also lead to horrendous results.

[Bowders1]

Also, as an aside, to anybody looking at the Bose speaker set...

 

Without the correct enclosures, and more importantly the Bose front end of the stereo, these will sound utterly dreadful. Bose stuff in general is designed in a very funny manner, with small high-powered speakers, that don't necessarily have the best of EQ responses, and are usually wildly away from an even response. The pre-amps tend to have ridiculously unnatural preamp curves to counter this.

 

Similarly, using a Bose system with your own choice of speakers can also lead to horrendous results.

 

 

You are talking this way too seriously buddy...

 

For the point of this simple cheap Install I could not give a monkeys about EQ responses, pre amps and stuff and I doubt  the OP does either that started this . I get it the Bose ain't top range

 

The Bose was a simple and very cheap upgrade to the std system in my car. It has worked for that purpose intended

It is  certainly not dreadful.  

 

It worked for me and will probably work for anyone else with the same thoughts in mind on want they are doing it for.

 

now i must go fix my dam door lock which packed up ........ :(  

[demonufo]

I think you misunderstand. Aside from the sub, which is just a sub, use the speakers without the proper Bose equipment and it will sound WAY off, not just a little off. They use totally different principles.

[Sysvrs]

Bowders when it's in let me know how it sounds as I'm dead interested in fitting one buddy

[Bowders1]

I think you misunderstand. Aside from the sub, which is just a sub, use the speakers without the proper Bose equipment and it will sound WAY off, not just a little off. They use totally different principles.

 

 

The Bose Sub is amp'd by the Bose amp that is in the Sub box. This Bose Sub/Amp is driven independently to the speaker via the ISO to RCA connector from my head unit.

 

Ok, I can't adjust the amp level as it is not  pre amp'd but don't need to.   

 

It don't sound way off , it sound's great to me and i am happy so nuff said.  

 

I can't be bothered explaining any further......

[Bowders1]

Bowders when it's in let me know how it sounds as I'm dead interested in fitting one buddy

 

It is in my friend ....

 

It sounds great for me.     

 

I made few comments above already

 

cheers

[demonufo]

The Bose Sub is amp'd by the Bose amp that is in the Sub box. This Bose Sub/Amp is driven independently to the speaker via the ISO to RCA connector from my head unit.

 

Ok, I can't adjust the amp level as it is not  pre amp'd but don't need to.   

 

It don't sound way off , it sound's great to me and i am happy so nuff said.  

 

I can't be bothered explaining any further......

Sorry Mark, I should be clearer. I'm not talking about the sub, I'm talking about the rest of the Bose speaker system.

 

Most speaker manufacturers try to create a product that is an even and flat response across the whole frequency range. Bose do things a lot differently. They take compact drive units designed to go very loud in the smallest of enclosures. These drive units tend to have really wacky frequency responses, not just slightly different to normal loudspeakers, but wildly inaccurate. Bose get around this by putting complex equalisation into their amplification. This is why the majority of Bose gear is completely incompatible with other equipment, and like I said, when using the full range drive units without the Bose amplification, or vice versa, sounds horrific. The sub isn't going to do anything drastic since it has a VERY limited frequency range, other than maybe have the odd noticeable resonant frequency, but since it does have it's own inbuilt amp, it is quite possible the equalisation required for the subwoofer (although at 5 1/4" not really a sub-bass frequency woofer at all) in onboard. But like my earlier post mentioned, I was merely trying to warn people looking at the entire Bose speaker system what may happen if they try to use the entire speaker system without the rest of the required equipment.

 

Not wanting to start an argument or anything, just trying to point out what is, and hopefully stop anybody from wasting a great deal of coin, unless they intend to go for a full system.

[Bowders1]

Sorry Mark, I should be clearer. I'm not talking about the sub, I'm talking about the rest of the Bose speaker system.

 

Most speaker manufacturers try to create a product that is an even and flat response across the whole frequency range. Bose do things a lot differently. They take compact drive units designed to go very loud in the smallest of enclosures. These drive units tend to have really wacky frequency responses, not just slightly different to normal loudspeakers, but wildly inaccurate. Bose get around this by putting complex equalisation into their amplification. This is why the majority of Bose gear is completely incompatible with other equipment, and like I said, when using the full range drive units without the Bose amplification, or vice versa, sounds horrific. The sub isn't going to do anything drastic since it has a VERY limited frequency range, other than maybe have the odd noticeable resonant frequency, but since it does have it's own inbuilt amp, it is quite possible the equalisation required for the subwoofer (although at 5 1/4" not really a sub-bass frequency woofer at all) in onboard. But like my earlier post mentioned, I was merely trying to warn people looking at the entire Bose speaker system what may happen if they try to use the entire speaker system without the rest of the required equipment.

 

Not wanting to start an argument or anything, just trying to point out what is, and hopefully stop anybody from wasting a great deal of coin, unless they intend to go for a full system.

 

 

You are missing the point also buddy.

 

You are way more knowledgeable than me on this Audio stuff. And probably because you are knowledgeable,  you are being factual and detailed and i am not knocking you at all for that. Perhap this is what is making you slightly go OTT about the techy stuff.

But it is like a guy going to a audio shop and saying I only have £50 please do a full audio install and I want top notch sound. It ain't going to happen

and the technical guy will either go into great lengths to explain why or just say go away.

You are being that technical guy. It is not really needed on a low low expensive project

 

So I am the guy who had £30 to spend on something for fun and a mess about about after hearing few folks doing this and being happy.

So I do it and i am happy I post results I am happy.

 

Putting that aside...

 

Where is this great deal of coin coming from??

 

I spend £30 and as i stated earlier only did it coz it was cheap and a kinda Little messing.

 

No one is spending truck loads. No one is suggesting buy a full Bose system.

We are talking about a spare wheel tyre Sub that's it. Which to me you are driving this way off course.

 

Let's get back to the original thread that IulianE started which he also was happy with sound.

 

So, so far that is 2 people in this forum that tried it and liked it.

 

Don't worry I still luv ya.........

[demonufo]

So you didn't post this link then?

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2010-MAZDA-6-BOSE-SUB-WOOFER-SPEAKERS-SOUND-AUDIO-SYSTEM-/280930679121?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item4168c5f951