How long have your brake disks lasted?

[Breckie]

OK so we don't do much mileage. Just under 16,000 in just over two years. Bad judder under braking has however led to new discs/pads front & rear. Bill for £444. OUCH!!!!   :swear:   :(  :(  :(  

[trundlenut]

I managed two sets in 115k in my old Octavia. Try some more enthusiastic braking in future. Judder is often caused by gentle braking and a build up of crud.

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[Phil-E]

Plus also a few harder 'stabs' on the brakes can be easier than holding them on gently. Holding the brakes down gently can cause excessive heat and can warp the discs.

 

My last car (Seat Cordoba PD130) needed new discs all round at 95,000 miles.

 

Phil

[Llanigraham]

Front ones are still original @ 71k.

Rears replaced at the 55k service.

[ParaYeti]

Fronts still ok

Rears lasted 20 months/14,000 miles.

I thought it was a material defect as I didn't expect them to corrode so quickly. But the good folk on this forum assured me it was corrosion, which indeed it was.

Replaced them myself for £80

 

Here's the thread

[trundlenut]

The original rear ones on mine rusted and expanded to the point where they rubbed on the caliper.

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[Breckie]

Hard braking is an unusual occurrence with formerly two but now just one large Husky in the rear. She tends to object to being thrown around.

[The Plumber]

Not sure which model Yeti you have, as there are a number of different brake configurations depending on the engine fitted.

 

My rear Bosch brakes started showing corrosion symptoms at just over 10k; I've just replaced the discs and pads myself at 33k (28 months old) along with the sliders, which appeared to be jamming up the calliper movement.

 

Need to do some maintenance on the front callipers soon just in case, as they are of the FSIII type. From Fabia experience with these, then they can also jam on the sliders resulting in warped discs, although the one's on the Yeti and our two Fabia's appear OK at the moment. Mind my lads car at 20k on the clock had new discs and pads fitted when he bought it, I assume due to the warping issue.

 

 

TP

[wakev]

Not sure which model Yeti you have, as there are a number of different brake configurations depending on the engine fitted.

 

My rear Bosch brakes started showing corrosion symptoms at just over 10k; I've just replaced the discs and pads myself at 33k (28 months old) along with the sliders, which appeared to be jamming up the calliper movement.

 

Need to do some maintenance on the front callipers soon just in case, as they are of the FSIII type. From Fabia experience with these, then they can also jam on the sliders resulting in warped discs, although the one's on the Yeti and our two Fabia's appear OK at the moment. Mind my lads car at 20k on the clock had new discs and pads fitted when he bought it, I assume due to the warping issue.

 

 

TP

 

Hi Tim 

         As we know your yeti was built about 2 weeks before mine (both are the 110 4x4),  you have about 10k more on the clock, but my discs are still as new no corrosion or scoring almost a mirror shine to them.  Beginning to wonder if its the way they are assembled at the plant, not enough lube put on the sliders, or the covers not being fitted into position properly,  

 

Strange how its affected yours but not mine there was plenty of grit used on the roads around here during the last two winters, and mine regularly gets put through mud and water on the entrance road to the clay shoot car park, would take a photo but may get a few comments at this time of night, plus cameras packed ready for the annual trip to the Caribbean     :cocktail:  :beer:   

[Agerbundsen]

No brake issues at all. Current Yeti has 110,000 km opn the clock. Still original pads, but expect to replace pads at next (120,000 km) service.

 

Previous Octavia Combi ( 140 hp PD Diesel) replaced with the Yeti nearly four years ago was the same - no brake work at all for the time I owned the car.

[Yeti_Man]

OK so we don't do much mileage. Just under 16,000 in just over two years. Bad judder under braking has however led to new discs/pads front & rear. Bill for £444. OUCH!!!!   :swear:   :(  :(  :(  

£444 for front disks and pads?!   Crumbs! My bigger 312mm VRS setup cost half that for the Yeti but that was purely an upgrade for braking improvements. Most seem to have corrosion issues on the rear disks as TP says, due to the sliders failing but I usually see 50k from factory supplied front disks on VAG stuff although Ive never had a disk warp. Do you sit on the brake at the lights? Thats supposed to be one of the worst causes for warping. Also, follow one of the online guides for bedding in new pads and disks - it makes a real difference to their performance.

[Breckie]

It's a 1.8TSI & no never have sat with my foot on the brake at the lights. Old school though with the handbrake on.....if required.

I'd replace said discs & pads myself but with my handiwork it would be tantamount to suicide.   

[nickguzzi]

Gentle or insufficient use can lead to the pad material transfered to the disc.  Is can be difficult to remove (usually only with grinding) and causes symptoms frequently blamed on disc warpage.  Those of us who were trained to drive smoothly and minimise braking are most at risk.

Pads are designed to be in contact with the disc, to reduce pedal travel.  Real disc warpage is rare.  The ensuing knock back would then require big pedal travel to push the pads back into contact, even before any pressure was applied.  So unless you have the two symptoms together - long travel and pulsing/vibration then you don't have warpage, but pad/disc corrosion.

After a wet drive, especially if the car is then garaged, all sorts of corrosion can set in, causing "lumps" and discontinuities on the disc surface.  This is my favourite to cause of the vibration.

 

My octavia's puny original brakes were swopped for 312mm ones after almost total fade in the Alps.  They have been on 3 years now, work extremely well and in 33,000 miles have worn the pads about 1/3.  (everything was new, they came from a write off with 106 miles, cost £200, including hubs, discs calipers and pads.) Disc are nice and shiny and no lip.

Every so often I give them some work to do, and they then work even better.

[ScottH]

Just coming up on 60k miles - car has had its 2nd MOT this morning - front pads 25% worn so no issue there, rears 70% worn (approx 5000 miles left).

 

Was invited to have the work done @ £230ish, but have declined this as I am 3 weeks into the waiting game for a replacement Yeti ;-)

[thesquiff]

£444?!?!?!?!!!!!!! I did the rears on my Octy last night and discs and pads cost me £45! - Padgid bits from ECP.

 

Not wanting to be the bearer of bad news but you have been ripped off.

[Llanigraham]

Main stealer prices!?

[thesquiff]

Even so. What would front discs and pads cost from main dealer? £150 say? Max 1 hour labour do to the job +£90. Still only get to £240. £444?!!

[trundlenut]

Even so. What would front discs and pads cost from main dealer? £150 say? Max 1 hour labour do to the job +£90. Still only get to £240. £444?!!

He said it was front and rear, not just front.

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[thesquiff]

Ah yes, doh! At least serves as a reminder as to why I never go anywhere near a main dealer. An independent would be far cheaper even using OEM parts.

[Llanigraham]

Even so. What would front discs and pads cost from main dealer? £150 say? Max 1 hour labour do to the job +£90. Still only get to £240. £444?!!

 

Sorry, but you are a bit out of touch. Labour in many dealers is more than £90/hr.

[nickguzzi]

Or approximately double the charge out rate for the local precision engineering firm?

Who also pay the same UBR, rent and utility charges.

Who have a fair few CNC machines.  Any one of which would perhaps exceed the value of the content of your average dealership (perhaps not the show room!).

Who have a highly skilled intelligent and experienced staff. Nuff said.

[Llanigraham]

And?

 

How can you compare an engineering company to a garage?

Different business, concepts and market place.

[Ootohere]

I assume they charged the National Pricing price, for Discs and pads & a brake fluid change.

even though many will do it cheaper.

http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/national-pricing/maintenance

 

?? How was the bill made up to get it to £444 and not £423?

Can you look at it and tell us what it said on Prices, all Parts required & Labour, (then the VAT)

 

On a 16,000 mile car, even if there was surface corrosion or some pitting i might have had the discs Skimmed, even at £25-30 a Disc, plus the new pads if actually required and labour,

that would have been expensive enough.

 

Did they show you the discs that were removed, maybe you would have been none the wiser anyway.

(check if the Brake Fluid was changed, with the new discs and pads, then do not go get charged for it getting done again at 3 years old.)

 

george

[trundlenut]

The dealers are probably not allowed to skims the discs. VAG are very prescriptive in what has to be done in response to faults. The service manager at a main dealer once said to me that they aren't allowed to repair things only replace them.

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[Ootohere]

A good reason for using Independents or places with Trained and qualified Motor Engineers/Mechanics and not just Technicians/Fitters.

 

 Scottish Skoda Dealers do skim discs, a winter can take a toll on discs even on new cars

They are happy to do it to Sales vehicles rather than replace the discs, like on a 3 month old or 3000 mile ex demonstrator

that they are selling.

 

george

 

EG Only 300 miles and new, and these got worse as each day passed, (& as it gets washed every day and not driven.)

Say it is another month or so before the car sells &

you can not put that to a customer like that, and you are hardly going to replace the discs.

Taking out and doing some hard braking, is going to gubb or glaze the pads possibly, so remove, skim replace. Simples really.