Changed the rears in about 2 hours and that was with several very tight bolts.

 

The front though...

 

It took me about 3 hours to do ONE side and I still need to tighten the top down. I dread to think what the passenger side is going to be like. Does anyone have any sneaky tricks for getting the whole shebang back together easier? I really struggled to get the strut out, then struggled to get the new one in, then struggled to get the top hat > bearing > bushing back in place. 

 

Anyone in the portsmouth area feeling generous :( ? 

its not too bad once you have done it a few times,

 

things to make it easier are vw hub splitting tool

an impact gun to undo the top strut nut

 

penetrating spray to loosen nuts and bolts, and some copper slip for inside strut housing in hub.

I've heard the mk4 platform is meant to be an easy one, I hate to think what others are like. Someone at work with a Civic was telling me any work on those is a nightmare.

 

I have the laser hub splitter tools, one is narrow and one wide. I used the wide one of course! No impact gun unfortunately but a good selection of deep offset wrenches, breaker bar etc etc.

 

Used about half a can of gt-85 as well...Think its just all so rusty now. 

Passenger side was easier for me than drivers side!

yes one driveshaft is longer than the other and requires more force to get the strut out of the hub

PAssenger side took about 1 hour 15, couldn't believe how easy it was! 

 

Car handles like its on rails now, its amazing!

 

Little bit rattly though, I don't think I tightened up the top caps enough 

I am in Portsmouth would of popped up as I have day off but looks like you finished now

The passenger side is always easy due to the drive shaft size and you have more clearance to get strut out. Did you fit the inner strut nut back onto bearing and top mount bush? So the strut is tightened before fitting back to car. Then you just tighten down top nut over top hat when strut located.

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I'm not far from Portsmouth too, but it sounds like you are done now..

the key to it is as has been mentioned a above, the drivers side driveshaft is shorter so it makes it a bit tricky, but it can be done if you undo the 3 bolts that hold th ball joint into the track control arm for a bit more clearance.

I wouldn't mind getting some help to check the top mounts are tight, I tightened them as much as I could but I think they need more. The deep offset wrench wasn't the best to be honest! 

I wouldn't mind getting some help to check the top mounts are tight, I tightened them as much as I could but I think they need more. The deep offset wrench wasn't the best to be honest! 

 

I have a proper open socket wrench so can get into the nut easy if this helps 

This is a open socket buddy if you were wondering

 

Allows you to place socket over a nut and a allen key or smaller socket inside. Ideal for suspension strut top nuts

 

 

Cheers mate, I'm going to my brothers in basingstoke tomorrow and will be buying a set. Might be able to get a cheeky discount and looks like a bloody useful tool.

They are not cheap but dam useful.

 

Mine has paid me back in the  years of ownership loads of times.

 

Also good as a normal socket wrench too. 

A bit late for me to chim in (I changed mine a few years ago), but as a "splitter tool" I found a socket mounted allen key worked wonders :-)

Massive thanks Bowders, gave me some fantastic advice and cleared up a couple of points for me. Just managed to get the job done pretty quick at home with the tools I had. On a quick test drive the only untoward noises were from all the ****e in the boot! 

 

Will definitely buy a pass through socket set next time I go near a job like this.