Well hello there.

Its been a while, since i bought my Audi Mk1 S3 i haven't really been posting on here as ive been so busy modding my S3.

when i bought it i sold my old Mk1 octavia 1.8t 4x4 to my brother as i didn't have a need 2 cars to feed mot`s and taxes into at the time.

So the time has come to re-build the S3 over the winter as a project for a Garrett GT2871R build spec so i bought back my old Octy as a run around and must admit ive missed the old girl. 

Shes no slouch though sporting the Shark stage 1 re map and goes pretty well considering she used to only have 150 brake standard.

After the re map it desperately needed bigger brakes so got the 312mm up grade and seems to rein her but could be better with braided lines and the right pads.

If you guys are interested (i know its not a skoda) i can post pictures as the build progresses?

I will eventually be putting the S3`s KO4 onto the octy once ive finished the S3 garrett project so that may well be fun slugging the old girl around with 255 horse as i`ll get the octy re mapped again to suit her new trainers:)

I'm actually collecting K04 bits as I find them at a sensible price (minus scene tax) so I can have a relatively factory setup albeit with an R-tech map.

 

Look forward to seeing this progress thread!

Cheers dude

Yea for the KO3`s its a no brainer going for a simple KO4 upgrade as its cheap enough and has results, where as the S3 department is a little bit more expensive to do but has its rewards:)

Currently sitting in my garage waiting for me to strip her down and rebuild with some goodies:)

Stay tuned

 

Enjoy

Edited 27 September, 201312 yr by skud missile

Nice buddy. I always wanted a S3 over a LCR or R32 but too expensive back then and I needed larger boot for kids stuff and prams etc. So octy VRS won. Now the S3 are more affordable I have gone too far with the VRS.:-(. Think K04 or hybrid is on the cards for me. Prefer hybrid K03s as can keep downpipe and more stuff than swapping to a K04. Mind you I keep looking at RS4s and S4's lately. .

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Keep us posted mate!!!

Some pics of the build will be awesome....

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Well so far the Mods are

Haldex Blue controller

FMIC

Oil Catch Can

Shark stage 1 map

Oil and boost pressure gauges

****e load of rotten hoses, old age and oil degradation.

 

I own a VAG tuning garage up north so blueprinting my engine wont be a problem, well i hope it won`t lol

just waiting on DM rifle drilled Rods and ARP bolts for the crank shaft main bearings and head  before i start.

The plan will be for a package that can produce 400BHP but will be having a switchable map system for 350BHP for dail use and 400BHP for race.

So this will be a complete full engine out the car, strip and measurement before any rebuilding will commence, just to make sure every things still within the service limits.

Once build it`ll be run in again using the KO4 until the rings and shells settle in, so 1000 miles or so then the fun can begin.

Most guys are just leaving the block attached in the engine bay and whip the head off and hone the bores and throw new rods in which imho isn't such a good idea, yea its easier leaving the block attached but if your gonna be investing in a feck load of dosh into your BT build then full service limit measurements must be taken or you run the risk of your engine letting go.

Of course this is just a suggestion

Once ive had a look at the bore this will be the deciding point for either a 1.9 stroker kit if it needs re boring or just re use the BAM pistons if the bores are fine.

Cheers

Edited 28 September, 201312 yr by skud missile

Nice buddy. I always wanted a S3 over a LCR or R32 but too expensive back then and I needed larger boot for kids stuff and prams etc. So octy VRS won. Now the S3 are more affordable I have gone too far with the VRS.:-(. Think K04 or hybrid is on the cards for me. Prefer hybrid K03s as can keep downpipe and more stuff than swapping to a K04. Mind you I keep looking at RS4s and S4's lately. .

Sent from my Samsung S3

Had an RS4 to use as for a week, when my friend went abroad, when he came back, I was seriously contemplating how to hide it as did not want to give the keys back.

Give the keys back when the petrol light comes on

Got some goodies coming my way.

IE Tuscan rods complete with ARP 2000 bolts

ARP stud kits for the head and crank mains:)

Stay tuned....

Will be ace what manni you running ?

Might aswell go bigger on the piston if you gonna do it might aswell do it properly lol ;-)

As for service limits and engines letting go lol maybe a bit ott some of the fastest and most powerful 1.8t have been built with block in car lol

You can still do every measurement needed !!?

The key to making the power is understanding how to get the most out of the head ;-)

Keep us posted buddy good build thread needed

Cheers mate.

I'm a OTT kinda guy when it come to building engines.Oh and believe me the head will be getting more money spent there than most of the engine.

Another key to BIG power is to make as much power as possible with as little boost as possible. Old Skool is always best imho, its where it got us today.

You can measure every thing with block in situ but its a royal pain in the arse!!

My solution to these engines is the more comfortable you are while building them the more effort, care and attention you put into the build. None of this "that`ll do ****e" cos your bent over holding hoses with one hand and trying to measure clearances with the other. 

Lol spk with Ricky alder at race developments he is the best head man around ;-)

Yeah more boost = heat = pita

The good think with these engines is its been done 1 million times before so doesn't take much to get it right

I've just built a fully tricked strocker with billet crank etc fully balanced the key is getting it all balanced and build components to weights ;-)

Get yourself a fluid damper it's a must oh and manual tensioner ;-)

Nice to see you back dude

Yea its good to be back cheers.

Most guys on here are genuine where as on ASN most in the know can be a bit ill tempered with people trying to learn the art/craftsmanship or just complete ******* lol.

A billet crank bust of been a fook load of wonga yet alone the time in machining and balancing and fete-ling.

I wont know if i`ll go bigger pistons till i get the bore out into daylight. Don`t need to tell you the score on the doors. Its like blind date with Cilla black lol

Cylinder no 1...tapered

Cylinder no 2 egg`d

Cylinder no ...... 

If all is well id like to keep it 1800cc as it`ll be more genuine

Well tomorrows the day and mums the word.

I've got a week off work and will be removing the S3`s engine and Gearbox full a full strip down and inspect before rebuilding with the upgrades so will reporting back how it goes with plenty of pics:)

Enjoy:)

More to follow tomorrow

Well today I got the engine pulled, turbo off, manifold off with no seized bolts surprisingly lol, clutch assy off and just about ready for the head to come off and release the surprise in the bores....fingers crossed she's within spec:)

Here's the gearbox/transfer box separated.

The clutch friction disc had interesting wear signs

The KO4's hot side is fecked!! Crack propagation every where incl the manifold

Good thread hope all goes well .....

Cheers buddy

well as expected my bores are oval`d
so that means re bore and some shinny new pistons are needed
whats people recommendations on new pistons and new bore sizes?
I know that 82.5mm is the max safe limit for a road car





Cylinder one average: 81.111mm with ovality of 0.127mm
Cylinder two average: 81.274mm with ovality of 0.224mm
Cylinder three average: 81.308mm with ovality of 0.246mm
Cylinder four average: 81.260mm with ovality of 0.233mm

Cylinder three looked like it was running hotter than every one else as thats the worst one

But this is with a very good factory cross hatch still shown but its done 115K so some things gotta ware.

 

Cylinder 1

Cylinder 2

Cylinder 3

Cylinder 4


the Oil pump chain tensioner didn't look too bad either, but will be replacing it any way


Shame i gotta replace the pistons as theres not a mark on them

Well today i got my brother who`s a machinist and got him to measure the block, crank, pistons, piston ring grooves and gudgen pins the old fashion way with mic`s and was very happy with the results

He didn't believe that on of the cylinders was coming back at 81.308mm which should of been slapping like a ******* and smoking oil.
He also doesn`t like the Faro arms as his work just got rid of theirs as it kept giving false readings.
Here`s what we found

 

 

so bottom line is every thing is still within spec which is amazing after 115K

Well not much of an update but parts are starting to roll in.
Shells for the main and big end
Forge coolant hose kit
Will be seeing my Rods and stud kit tomorrow:)



Now i know its not every ones brand of vodka but couldn't just leave the block all rusty and scabby after all the hard work of re building her so painted that and its needing a few more coats but liking what im seeing:)


 

Well the blocks finally cured after 3 coats:)

A gathering of parts have now turned up so starts the assembly process.

Weighted the new rods and was amazed how they all weighted the same.

The heads off to a specialist i know up here so i`ll have that back in a week, providing its not needing too much.

Some odds n ends blasted and then heat painted

Thinking of making a old crank from the scrapyards and make a pretty cool lamp lol

Crank lower main shells in and lubed up with assembly lube 

ARP main stud kit in place

Sump needs a little tickle with a file for the stud clearance on the clutch side

Plastigauge in place for reading the oil clearances 

And all within spec:)

Freshly de glazed bores

And slowly starting to look like a engine again

Sumps only there to catch assembly lube drips in case any one says i forgot to fit the crank oil seal flange lol

Awesome dude