Sensor talks to the ECU, ECU talks to the cluster.

 

It seems like the glowplugs are not coming on for long enough, if you take the car for a run and get it nice and warm, try stopping, plugging the CTS back in and restarting while the engine is still hot.

 

Report back please.

Sensor talks to the ECU, ECU talks to the cluster.

 

It seems like the glowplugs are not coming on for long enough, if you take the car for a run and get it nice and warm, try stopping, plugging the CTS back in and restarting while the engine is still hot.

 

Report back please.

 

Hi,

 

It doesnt start.

 

I have drove it for 5 miles before, stopped switched it off, Plugged the sensor in and it wont start. (the gauge is reading the temprature half).

unplug the sensor and it starts. (but kinda struggles, and then smokes alittle, i assume becuase of the excess diesel, like a blackish smoke)

 

If I drive it, stop and switch off and restart the car, fires up on straight away

Have you checked the wires from the sensor to wherever they go, has the insulation been damaged.

 

DB

I have made a Visual inspection.

 

I was hoping to make new wires, but i dont have a diagram so I am unable to do so!

Wire a 5 pin relay in to cut the temperature sensor circuit whilst the starter is cranking the engine.

fordfan.. I guess that could be done.

But i have noticed something else today..

With the CTS unplugged..

I turn the ignition on, glow plug lights show, I hear a faint tick/click.

After 5 seconds I hear a secondary click.

With the CTS plugged in, I hear the first click, but not the second one.

I purchased a ODB usb cable to work with KVcd, and launched it on the car today!

Well I noticed something straight away, with the coolant temprature sensor unpluged it was

still reading 46'c.

Ideas why its reading 46c when nothing is plugged in ?

I purchased a ODB usb cable to work with KVcd, and launched it on the car today! Well I noticed something straight away, with the coolant temprature sensor unpluged it was still reading 46'c. Ideas why its reading 46c when nothing is plugged in ?

 

There is resistance in the cable run somewhere since the CTS is a thermistor, maybe some idiot has previously fitted one of those stupid 'power resistors' from ebay?

This could explain why its reluctance to start!

Further to that, I did the hammer knock fix on the fuel pump today, ran it really rich and I could actually get it to start and run although very lumpy with the cts plugged in.

I've looked high and low for any stupid resitors cant find any. What I now would like to do is,

find the pins on the ecu side and just make an individual loom for the cts!

my my! looks like together with some guidance from the forum lot we have managed to point fingers.

I might unplug the ecu and look at that side of the loom tommrow!

UPDATE.

disconnected the ecu - no water ingress.

disconected loom - no damage to pins etc

 

Checked for continutiy between cts plug and pin 112 and 104, tested to 0.

 

reassembled, plugged in vdcs and with cts disconnected showed a temprature of 16c, cts plugged in showed temprature of 16c

 

did not want to start with cts plugged in,

unplugged cts started fine.

...What I now would like to do is, find the pins on the ecu side and just make an individual loom for the cts! ...

 

I reckon that's what I'd be doing.  You've proved continuity, but you haven't ruled out shorting to other wiring, unless you've been able to eyeball the wires in question all the way along the loom.

 

On  a completely different car I once looked after, there was a short between CTS wiring and injector wiring as they sort of crossed each other in a trunking run and had chafed through insulation.  That caused mayhem, and killed the original and first replacement CTS before I found the real issue. 

maybe their is a short or something when the cars cranking and vibrating the entire loom

 

I dont know. I am fresh out of ideas and annoyed

Still no luck.

Without looking at each wire... I dont know where the problem is.

 

Letter..

 

On 22-09-2013 I purchased, and took delivery of, the above vehicle [Skoda Fabia, 2001 SDI] from you. On [01-10-2013] I discovered that it was not of satisfactory quality, codes have been read from the ECU and the faults are;

• Car does not start.
• Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285).
• Needle lift sensor (G80): Open or Short to Plus : P1247.
• Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground P3101.
• Engine coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or short to Plus P1256.
• Temperature gauge does not work.
• MIL / Engine Management Light has been disconnected / turned off to disguise the above problems.
• Clutch is slipping at motorway speeds.

The codes have been cleared and the car still will not start the EML / MIL light does not function, I can only assume it has been switched off to disguise the problems with the car.

I have already replaced the following components before having codes read;

• Fuel Filter 11.00
• Coolant Temperature Sensor 11.50
• Glow Plugs 28.00
• Cost of reading codes 32.00

Section 14 of the Sale of Goods Act 1979 requires dealers to supply goods of satisfactory quality. However, the vehicle is clearly unroad-worthy and not fit for purpose or of satisfactory quality. You are therefore in breach of contract.

I feel that I have been most understanding and have spent over eighty pounds of my money to attempt to repair the car but I have failed. I am aware that I am legally entitled to reject the vehicle and to be reimbursed for its full purchase price of [£750].

 

I have attempted to explain to you that “sold as seen receipts, do not affect my statutory rights” but you do not agree, I suggest you re-read information which is freely available on the trading standards website. I have given you the option of;

• Repairing the car at your cost.
• Refunding me my monies.

The above have been turned down by you and now I am writing to you informing you of the issues asking you to rectify them at your cost. I will give you 5 working days to reply to this letter in writing informing me of your decision. You as a trader have a legal obligation to ensure that cars you sell are fit for purpose or of satisfactory quality. Please understand that I am an honest individual who feels to be out of pocket because the car is not fit for purpose or of satisfactory quality.

If you fail to respond or chose to ignore this letter I shall have no other alternative but to

• Have the car repaired.
• Claim all associate costs from you.
• Issue a claim against you in Small Claims Court.

Please understand I am not threatening you, I am just invoking my statutory rights which protects me under these conditions. I hope to have a prompt reply from you.

Yours sincerely

Well said, well worded, good luck.

 

DB

Well trader responded with a sold as seen letter and a cost of £50 towards repair.

case raised with TS.

 

im typing up my reply

fingers crossed for you regarding refund.

Have you tried a genuine Skoda cts switch yet? I know of a few issues in the old Felicia`s where none genuine ones (even from new) didn't cure the issue

I've spent hours on the car.

A few days ago when it was cooler around 5 to 6 degrees with the temperature sensor plugged in and it did start on them days.

Using vcds I can see the glow plugs get pre heated at those temperatures but above that they do not preheat unless you unplug the Cts.

But no matter what you do if it's warmer the car simply does not want to start.

I have played around with the ow ratios to no effect.

More importantly I drove it on a small round trip of 5 to 8 miles and noticed clutch slip at motorway speeds.

Happens in 4 and 5th.

Iam so unhappy

What condition is the battery?  when the engine is warm fuel isn't injected until its turning over at least 250rpm.

 

Also would be worth checking the injection timing with VCDS.

Battery is a big Bosch s4. It's in good condition, I haven't load dropped it it looks newish

When cranking with vcds plugged in it never drops below 250rpm.

I'm not sure how to check ignition timing.

Not owning a skoda before and comparing to a diesel avensis it definitely spins quicker.

On that note, sometimes the starter selonid does stick.

One would assume if the starter was faulty it would replicate the same issues with or without the Cts.

There is a "how to" on the Ross Tech website for checking the timing.  You just need the car up to temperature before you can check it.

only stuff i can find is the tdi, this is an sdi.

 

letter sent to trader.

only stuff i can find is the tdi, this is an sdi.

letter sent to trader.

Its the same process for the SDI as a TDI.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

What was the outcome on your car.

 

DB