Ok this is a serious question, I am looking for a quick fix to get more power for the Cannonball. Jabba will be mapping the car this week but I have also been offered the loan of a Nos kit. Has anyone had experience of running Nos on the VAG 1.8T engine or can anyone point me in the direction of anyone who can help.

I am initially wary of it as I dont believe a "quick fix" will not lead to further problems & the last thing I want is a blown engine or transmission somewhere in the middle of Europe.

Stuart

Originally posted by Stuart_J in this post

Ok this is a serious question, I am looking for a quick fix to get more power for the Cannonball. Jabba will be mapping the car this week but I have also been offered the loan of a Nos kit. Has anyone had experience of running Nos on the VAG 1.8T engine or can anyone point me in the direction of anyone who can help.

I am initially wary of it as I dont believe a "quick fix" will not lead to further problems & the last thing I want is a blown engine or transmission somewhere in the middle of Europe.

Stuart

Stuart

In my experience and IMHO this mod is only for quick sprints-1/4 mile runs.

15-20 sec blast before engine over heats, be very careful or get a controller. Get it wrong and cheque book out time, you have been warned.

Des

Yeah it's for sprinting, but I haven't heard any overheating problems. Some people have used it in other racing, but the bottle only holds about 3 minutes worth of nitrous. Whatever you do, don't use a dry kit. Wet kits spray both fuel and nitrous into the intake manifold, dry kits only spray nitrous. Also, if you're using a 4 bar FPR, get an inline fuel pump for sure, although it's a good idea to get one if you're nearing 250hp anyway.

Speedy G

Speedy,

In your sig I see you have a 3" MAF any more details ie Who makes it, are there any cages in it, any diff to performance etc.

Cheers Des

You haven't seen my MAF housing? Wow. I hope you have a good laugh. I'm waiting on alu piping to do it properly, it's Sanitary PVC piping, 3" internal diameter:

Here's the engine bay:

More photos here:

http://cyanide.toxictimes.com:8080/cgi-bin/carphotos/index.cgi

Speedy G

My recommendation regarding MAFs is to get a broken VR6 one for a 2.75" inner diameter housing, or an S4 one for a 3" inner diameter housing. If you can't get that, any muffler shop can weld one for you in like 20 minutes. I did mine with PVC because it's easier to work with. I'll be doing my alu intake with full 3" ID piping from the filter to the turbo, including the TIP and MAF housing.

The reason I changed the MAF is to account for the different size in injectors. I moved from 270ml injectors to 440 ml and from 2.36" ID MAF to 3". This allows me to increase air flow by 60% while maintaining the same A/F ratio. However, this only works on MAP less cars. Newer cars with drive-by-wire and MAP sensors on top of the intercooler need more mods for this to work. I'm runnin 1.4 bar right now, but I think I can go up to 1.6 with my setup once I get an inline fuel pump in.

Speedy G

Speedy G,

is it worth having a 3'' MAF housing on a remapped engine?

Are there any performance benefits?

I assume you're using the standard MAF but so you know whether there are any uprated MAF and the standard one is failure prone.

Thanks.

Adrian.

Originally posted by Speedy G in this post

You haven't seen my MAF housing? Wow. I hope you have a good laugh. I'm waiting on alu piping to do it properly, it's Sanitary PVC piping, 3" internal diameter:

So where does the dump valve go ? :rofl:

But seriously any problems with it melting or getting hot in traffic?

Short or long flush??

I suppose it depends on which way you fit it. :rofl:

Impossible do a 3'' MAF housing hence, my as I guess some others questions.

Originally posted by Speedy G in this post

You haven't seen my MAF housing? Wow. I hope you have a good laugh. I'm waiting on alu piping to do it properly, it's Sanitary PVC piping, 3" internal diameter:

Here's the engine bay:

More photos here:

http://cyanide.toxictimes.com:8080/cgi-bin/carphotos/index.cgi

Speedy G

Speedy

Pics will not download and link is dead. :(

Sorry my stupid router keeps dying on me.

Regarding the benefits of the 3" MAF, there are some if you run a big turbo:

1) I'm running a T3 super 60 with a 3" inlet. The air flow would suffer in the intake if I put a restrictive 2.36" MAF in the middle.

2) Drive by cable MAFs are known to have an electrical limit of around 175g/s (DBW are around 250 I think). I'm currently running enough boost to flow around 240g/s through the MAF, which is only possible since I made the MAF bigger. The sensor senses flow velocity and uses the MAF diameter to calculate volume flowing at that speed. If you use air density, you get g/s of flow. Since I made the diameter bigger, the sensor still senses the same flow velocity but volume is more. That means the ECU sees 150g/s of flow, but it's actually 240.

3) The ECU will give me limp mode before I get to 175g/s of flow. So cheating the ECU in this way gets rid of limp mode.

5) In any case, with 240g/s of air flow through the 2.36" MAF, the sensor is more prone to damage since the air particles are moving much faster.

6) The 3" MAF housing allows me to run 440ml injectors without the need for a remap. This is possible because since the ECU sees 150 g/s of air, it requests fuel for that much air. To keep A/F the same, I need to put injectors that are 60% larger in there.

Of course, you could run the stock MAF with big turbos, if you use proper software, but it's probably not the best idea. Even with proper software, the MAF housing size should be increased. If you're running a regular turbo, don't bother. You could increase it to 2.5" and run 310ml injectors, but if you don't have the turbo there's no reason to do it.

Speedy G