Hi,

I've just placed an order on yeti 2.0 TDI and have question about the haldex system.

Been wondering if haldex can overheat when pushed too hard resulting in switching to front wheels drive only

like in e.g. Honda CRV case where it can happen pretty easily. I need a car a little bit more durable then that.

 

thanks

They use Haldex in the Bugatti Veyron, so I don't think overheating should be something you need worry about even in a Skoda

 

 

Enjoy the new Monster,

 

TP

To make it overheat you would be going way beyond the capabilities of the Yeti.

Don't worry about it.

It deals with a remapped RS3 okay lol

The Haldex has coped with many remapped Yeti with out one single reported problem.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Sounds like Offnote to me!

 

Fred

330bhp and equal amounts of torque say that it doesn't overheat.

Sounds like Offnote to me!

 

Fred

My thoughts exactly Fred!

Sounds like Offnote to me!

 

Fred

 

 

It isn't don't worry.

what are you guys talking about...

what are you guys talking about...

 

 

A grumpy old troll who lives under a bridge...

If the Haldex overheats, going to front wheel drive only should be the least of your worries. 

 

If it seriously overheats, it goes bang in style, as I found out about a year ago.  When the Haldex fails, there is little outward sign until you spot the pool of fluid underneath it.  That is apart from the loud bang a bit like a tyre blowout, a twitch to the steering and a minor panic as in the middle of nowhere in rural Norfolk, you ponder replacing a tyre with a non present spare.  The relief when you get out and take a look and all seems well is then replaced by rising concern about the distant grinding noise from the back of the car as you continue your journey.  The next morning you find a pool of fluid under the offside rear of the car.  What you thought would be an easy fix by removing a stone from a brake caliper instead turns out to be far more serious.

 

For some strange reason, the Haldex on my car failed within a couple of hundred miles of  a dealer 'replacing' the Haldex fluid at 40k miles.  Nobody would tell me why it happened, even if they really knew what happened.  Another dealer replaced the failed unit at an estimated cost to someone (not me) of in excess of £3k.  Someone (not me) then had to fork out to extend the warranty.  As it was all sorted out very efficiently, I didn't push things but it still makes me wonder what really happened.

 

One thing I will be doing is actually watching the next oil replacement if I still have the car at 80k miles.  You will understand my thinking..................... 

Hi Trevor,

 

Cannot find the article now but it was published quite some time ago; however a Yeti TDI 110 4x4 being used by Auto-CZ suffered catastrophic failure of the Haldex box.

 

Strip down of the gearbox revealed a cotter pin had not been fitted during production, so obviously it eventually fell apart inside and effectively exploded braking the casing; similar to what you experienced by the sounds of it.

 

 

TP

There is a temperature sensor to prevent overheating. It is primarily used to control the regulating valve. If the fluid temperature goes over 100°C (or the temperature sensor fails) it reverts to FWD. When the temperature drops below 100°C, you get 4WD back. This is considered normal operation.

For the regulating system to work correctly, there must be the correct volume of fluid. About the right amount isn't good enough.

Hi Trevor,

 

Cannot find the article now but it was published quite some time ago; however a Yeti TDI 110 4x4 being used by Auto-CZ suffered catastrophic failure of the Haldex box.

 

Strip down of the gearbox revealed a cotter pin had not been fitted during production, so obviously it eventually fell apart inside and effectively exploded braking the casing; similar to what you experienced by the sounds of it.

 

 

TP

 

I thought things like parts assembly are done by robots to eliminate cases like this.

I thought things like parts assembly are done by robots to eliminate cases like this.

 

No quite a lot of jobs still involve a human interface, bodyshell is the main robotic assembly piece;

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBbUSYzj6oY

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_E0wC_nh6I8

 

 

TP

The problem could well have been the cotter pin failure.  That has also happened on one or two Tiguans, particularly in the US but at a lower mileage than my Monster. 

 

The strange coincidence is that things were absolutely fine for 40k miles and then within a very short time of the Haldex oil being replaced and on its first trip of more than 20 miles, that the thing virtually exploded.  The fact that there has been a total refusal for anyone to repeatedly offer satisfactory explanations other than to say 'well you had a brand new courtesy car for a week and everything was fixed' makes me wonder what really happened.  I suggested the cotter pin failure but this was dismissed with just a smile from the dealer who fixed the car.

 

I've kept quiet over the last year as either the servicing dealership or Skoda themselves had extended the warranty for a further year.  Now that I'm paying for the fifth year warranty, I don't feel so duty bound to keep quiet.

 

With most items serviced, it is easy to check.  You can dip the oil and see the depth of new brakepads.  What you can't see is that the Haldex has been properly serviced.  It is vital for it to be done right and to that end I will insist on being present when it's done again at 80k miles.  I don't relish having to fork out for a part costing in excess of £3k and needing more than a days labour to fit if things went wrong again! 

 

Don't get me wrong I still love the car and have no intention (at least for the moment) of getting rid.  But the events of a year ago were somewhat strange!