well... To be fair, in its standard 1400cc form with a chipped ecu it did make 104bhp on the rolling road with the original 1300cc 42mm exhaust system, the only reason I changed the system is because it was knackered so I went to th biggest size available.

come on Juan, chop chop, you're over thinking this, we could have this done and back on the road inside a day.

Yes Tom you're probably right. 

Guys, a while back there was an issue with a stud for the idler pulley and a few failures with machining one from 10mm to 8mm, I said at the time about a diesel tensioner stud and then forgot all about it lol so here is a diesel cambelt tensioner stud 

this one is from a felicia diesel engine, the octavia ones are a bit longer due to having a wider belt, it is 10mm thread into the head and machined to 8mm for the tensioner, I'm in a hurry so didn't try to find the old thread sorry guys

Thanks for that jimbo, I'm not sure this applies to old Juan though, 1 because he's dragging his heels and doesn't actually have an engine yet, and 2 because I think he's going to stick a boggo 1.4 in there so the problem doesn't exist.. This will help out others though especially old nuggets...

I have a complete 1.6 16v conversion here with wiring etc if needed lol

Tempting but the 1400 provides a 33% power increase and a 33% (approx) reduction in tax. A nice combination...

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How many queen Elizabeth's are you talking jim? What exactly is it you've got? Engine, loom, adaptor plate, flywheel, dwb gear, immobiliser, keys etc??

I would seriously consider that Juan, I presume your name's Juan? Haha... Anyway yes, that would make for a pretty decent conversion, far more modern and refined engine and will churn out 125bhp when the key is turned, same tax bracket as your existing engine, same 1598cc so no faffing around with the dvla with capacity changed... Trust me it's a minefield, I'm still trying to sort out my 20v car with the dvla and that's when I'm attempting to give them more money!! It gets a whole lot harder when you downsize the cc..

The pair of us together would get that sorted in no time, I'm something of an expert on the wiring on late vw engines especially when having to hook them up to a felicia, the mechanicals are pretty simple, gearbox and driveshafts is an identical setup to an afh conversion. If we did it right we could set up shop as it were.. It reckon there must be a few boy racers out there who would snap our arms off.

the 1600cc 16v engine will make 42mpg average in a felicia too, which is pretty much what you get now I suspect, than conversion does approx 45mpg based on personal experience in both cases.

Not sure on £'s Tom it is currently sat in my rally car, all wired in and running exactly as it should, current plan so far is to transplant all the safety gear over to the vrs shell along with suspension and brakes then try to flog the fabia with the 1.6 motor in as a track/road rally car or something to recoup some of the money.

lovely motors tho just rev and rev...

Guys, a while back there was an issue with a stud for the idler pulley and a few failures with machining one from 10mm to 8mm, I said at the time about a diesel tensioner stud and then forgot all about it lol so here is a diesel cambelt tensioner stud

this one is from a felicia diesel engine, the octavia ones are a bit longer due to having a wider belt, it is 10mm thread into the head and machined to 8mm for the tensioner, I'm in a hurry so didn't try to find the old thread sorry guys

What would be the shortest overall length you could get away with? From memory the one Tom made was 85mm overall?

When it's 85mm long, just enough to get it done up with a nut then a locknut, it's not necessary to use a lock nut tbh

you might be able to get away with it if you screw less of it into the engine block if you use the longer octavia one.

I just took 1 from a pd motor, it is 73mm total mate so should be fine with only 1 nut, I don't know how much a new 1 is from vw? sometimes get 1 in a Gates cambelt kit tho

You got the engine code that 73mm one came from? Ive gotta go to VW tomoz so i can try get one and the part number

it was a BXE mate but pretty sure that all the pd ones are the same 

Ok cheers. Its just that when i go to vw they will ask me for an engine code or a reg

Excited......

Part number n90905501 or n90905502, both 73mm long but one has a shoulder to act as a spacer to keep the tensioner slightly further away from the engine going by the etka diagrams, doesn't say which is which though, but the price is all of 70p each.

Game on.

 

ive got an ecu for a 16v juan, its yours for free just in case you didnt get one with the engine, i think it may be chipped too from memory.. i'm going to be a little biit busy but let me know when you want me to come up there.

Thanks Tom, I appreciate that. Probably around next weekend if that's any good.

Anyone know where the engine number is to be found on an AFH engine when you don't have the rest of the car or the V5?

 

All I can find on the web is that there should be a barcode on top of the cambelt cover?  (and there isn't)  :(

engine number is on the flywheel end of the engine block just undernearth the thermostat housing, it's on a flat machined suface directly below where the cylinder head and engine block meet

Thanks, found it.  There's a two digit followed on a second line by a six digit. Extrapolating from my AEE Felly V5 I assume the engine number for the DVLA is the 6 digit + the engine code?  

no it should be AFH******,  so that's the engine code followed by a 6 digit number, they often get really badly corroded because it is exposed to the elements  all the time, try roughing it up with some sandpaper to get a better view

oh yeah something else important i thought of, when you bolt up the bellhousing adaptor with the socket headed capscrews make sure you use loctite on them otherwise they work loose over a period of time

oh yeah something else important i thought of, when you bolt up the bellhousing adaptor with the socket headed capscrews make sure you use loctite on them otherwise they work loose over a period of time

Thanks Tom will do.