The plastic distributor cover on my AFH has sustained damage at some point before I got it (see photo) I think the area covers the EGR solenoid valve, but there's a round (sensor?) thingy just kind of dangling now, anyone know what it is?

 

 

 

I'm hoping the the functional bits are OK and just the plastic mounting is missing. 

Never seen one like that before, that's not part of that engine I'm sure, it's certainly not needed anyway.. think I've got one of those plastic covers knocking about too..

sorry, this is the best I can find of the egr valve and solenoid, I'm sure I've got a better pic somewhere.

sorry, this is the best I can find of the egr valve and solenoid, I'm sure I've got a better pic somewhere.

 

Looks to me as though its whatever's on the end the braided pipe/ wire cover coming out just above the cream electrical socket maybe. I'll clean it up and see if I can make more sense of it.

 

Quite a lot of oil about (on mine!), looks like the cam cover seal may need replacing. The received wisdom is that it costs a fortune and is a pig to fit...can be done once the engine's in though I assume.

Rocker cover is easy on those, it's just a 5mm Allen key and it comes off, it's not like the later engines where the cams are in the rocker cover casing.. Dead easy 5 min job on the afh engines.

Back to the EGR.....is there any downside to blanking it off, ie will the emissions still pass an MOT? Do I need to do anything in VAG-COM/VCDS?

 

At moment I am minded to ditch it as if I read things right that means:

 

a. I only need to unwrap a bit of the AEE loom and extend the radiator switch wiring

b. I don't need to move the radiator

 

Any thoughts?

Cutting corners mentally already?

you could ditch the egr valve yes, it doesn't have much effect on the running of the engine, to make it 100% you would stil need to add some wires and put a resistor across it to fool the ecu into thinking the solenoid was still there otherwise you will get a constant open circuit fault code keep coming back.

OK if I still need to add to the loom to lose the EGR I may as well do a proper job and keep it.

 

Thanks for the offer of the dizzy cover by the way, but I had/have already ordered one from VW. 

Went to pick up a couple of parts from vw today, one being the stud with part number n90905502.

73mm long

With the stud through the idler there is about 4mm poking out.

Can get about half a nut on

Reckon that would be ok? Shallower nut?

Edited 30 October, 201312 yr by nu99et18

Whilst we're on nuts and bolts, are shorter bolts needed for the Teflon Tom custom engine mount than the ones into the block from the standard AFH mount?

 

They're M10 IIRC, but what length?

if i recall the thead in the block is approx 20mm deep and its a blind hole, i would go for 30mm long high tensile..

 

and old nuggets, i dont think that nut will be any good like that, i wouldnt be happy with it like that

Tom do I need to remove the cambelt idler wheel to fit your custom mounting?

No.

Ok the round thing in my earlier post near the damaged distributor cover is part of the EGR solenoid valve.Some kind of breather maybe? (since its connected by tube).

 

Rocker cover is easy on those, it's just a 5mm Allen key and it comes off, it's not like the later engines where the cams are in the rocker cover casing.. Dead easy 5 min job on the afh engines.

 

Yes taking the cover off is dead easy, but scraping out the old bonded in seal to replace with a removable one is truly tedious. 

 

The replacement seal is about £20. 

Just use a shaft mounted wire wheel in a power drill, it will take all of 30 seconds..

and old nuggets, i dont think that nut will be any good like that, i wouldnt be happy with it like that

Hmmm thats a shame! What bar did you make yours out of? What tensile? Because if i can get some my cousin said he can make it on the lathe at work, he made one before but didnt know the tensile strength

In his AFH conv tech guide Teflon Tom mentions some cambelt covers that help solve the problem of the big hole left when using Tom's custom mounting. As the 1.4 AFH Ibiza seems identical to the Polo cover wise I've used a bit of lateral thinking and looked at the 2001 onwards Ibiza 1.0 16V  (AST,AVZ engine codes),  

 

NB That is the model the separate cam/rocker cover seal is listed under that fits the AFH

 

These are the part numbers:

 

036109121M -Top

036109127K - Bottom

036109143B - Back 

 

Can anyone confirm these are the ones Tom mentions?

ignore the pictures one etka, they are are not model specific.

the 2001 onwards model won't be the right ones, they will be there the same as the ones you already have because the engine mount position changed on the later cars to the same place as the polo ones.. I'll get back to you later I'll look it up.

What if i use the stud from vw and weld the nut on the end? I know it would make it a little awkward if i come to replace the idler but only costs about a pound for a new stud.

 

AFH (finally) on its way in...

 

Following advice from Teflon Tom I did not follow the Haynes book but dropped the gearbox off and out downwards first then lifted the engine out. I'm convinced this is by far the best way for the home mechanic.

Cutting corners mentally already?

you could ditch the egr valve yes, it doesn't have much effect on the running of the engine, to make it 100% you would stil need to add some wires and put a resistor across it to fool the ecu into thinking the solenoid was still there otherwise you will get a constant open circuit fault code keep coming back.

 

So are you saying the engine will definitely (test) run without splicing in the EGR?  I intend to do it properly but it would be nice to see/hear it running. 

Also looking for a bit of advice on the exhaust. My intention is to use the Polo downpipe including cat and mate that to Felicia diesel (50mm) middle and back boxes

 

After a quick mock up on the lawn next to the old system it looks as though I may need to cut a bit from both the pipe from the cat and the pipe to the middle box and get a curved/angled joining pipe made up but I could of course be wrong.

 

Anyone gone down this route before? 

yes iit will run fine without the egr valve

it will just keep returning a fault code sAYING that the egr is open circuit