I got the nut welded on the end of the stud in the end, looks like it should do the job.

I would like some advice on fitting the cambelt on the afh as last time the tensioner failed so want to make sure its all spot on this time. So the engine is in the car with gearbox still attached, my method would be to lock the cams at TDC, set the bottom to TDC(do i need to lock the flywheel?) bring the belt up from the crank, up round the idler, then over cams, down round the waterpump then finally over the tensioner. Then turn the tensioner until the pointer reaches its mark, turn over by hand couple times to check timing, job done? Any tips?

Sounds about right. I locked the flywheel, but I was working with the engine out of the car. 

it doesnt matter what method you use to prevent the cams/crank from turning so long as the timing marks line up again after the engine has turned 2 complete revolutions

After a bit of messing about with the loom (didn't actually cut any wires, just wrapping) I got the AFH fired up today with just the downpipe on using the old gasket as it will have to come off again for the exhaust cut and shut.

 

Surprise was it just ran strraight away after plugging in the Polo ECU without any VCDS stuff at all.

 

VCDS did however return the following fault codes:

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: None

Part No: 030 906 030 E

Component: MARELLI 1AV 2230

VCID: 0A1B55483671E84ECA7-4B02

3 Faults Found:

00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39)

07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

00609 - Ignition Output 1

31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

00282 - Throttle Position Actuator (V60)

36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The Lamda probe is installed and plugged in, but I guess could be faulty. Any ideas on the other two?:

 

The EGR valve is not connected yet by the way.....

Have you had the ignition turned on with any of the plugs on the engine unplugged? I would clear them and see if they return and not work too much... If either of those components we open or shorted to ground the engine wouldn't run, simple as that. They might just be historical codes that have beef in there for ages..

Odd about the ecu not needing matching up though, unless it's had an immo defeat programme installed, is there any signs that the ecu has been dismantled previously?

Have you had the ignition turned on with any of the plugs on the engine unplugged? I would clear them and see if they return and not work too much... If either of those components we open or shorted to ground the engine wouldn't run, simple as that. They might just be historical codes that have beef in there for ages..

Odd about the ecu not needing matching up though, unless it's had an immo defeat programme installed, is there any signs that the ecu has been dismantled previously?

 

Yes I'll just clear them and see what happens.

 

Can't say I noticed any signs of the ECU being dismantled but there again I wasn't really looking.

 

I was also expecting a fault code on the disconnected EGR.

 

Still the main thing it runs and seems oil and water tight and the exhaust just looks like a couple of cuts and a 50mm joiner.

I think I need to do this to the fun... just working long hours and no time..

Hint: Do it when the days are longer...

Its taken me about five days (so far) due to lack of daylight.

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk
 

It's too cold to be crawling round on the floor under a car too..

I've been researching EGR and am I correct that the ECU only operates (ie earths) the the solenoid valve at normal operating temp and high revs? 

 

Then I guess maybe the reason I haven't got a fault code is that it hasn't tried to use it yet?  I've had the engine running but not for very long and certainly not at high revs.  

Yes that is probably correct, it is only a primitive ecu on those, if it were a later type it does an output test before the engine is started on some actuators.... Either that or it's not the correct ecu.

Ive got the belt on and its timed up correctly, all lines up spot on after turning the engine by hand aswell. Only thing is when im turning the engine over by hand i noticed that the tensioner pointer moves slightly from its mark but then goes back where it should be. Is it supposed to do that?

Yes they do move a little bit.

Had it started today, sounded very savage but thats because its only got haft the exhaust system on. For some reason it first runs at around 1200rpm then rises to about 2000rpm then again to about 2900rpm, havent figured out why yet?

Anyway was going put the driveshafts back on but this

fell out of the passenger side driveshaft boot i think, some sort of bearing? I dont know where it goes, plus all the little rollers(i guess) have come off it. Can i get a new one or?

Anyone shed some light on this? ^ would like to get it back together

With regard to to the idle speed variation have you run throttle body alignment using VCDS?

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)

 

I'm afraid  don't recognise the part in the picture but when you say it fell out of the boot are we talking about the entire CV joint? You can buy replacement joints, or maybe just get a complete used driveshaft from the scrapyard/e-bay? 

 

If all the roller bearings have come out it may be beyond rebuilding, but I'd wait for wiser advice on that. 

I havent got vagcom, the plan was to use the felicia ecu to drive to a place about 3miles from my house that have vagcom then swap the ecu over there.

Im not entirely sure if it did come from the cv boot,i just know its fell from the passenger side drive shaft, gearbox side, so it may even be out of the gearbox but i really hopw not!

Is the inner boot still firmly attached to the inner CV joint?

 

Posting a pic of the driveshaft might help.

 

I think your best bet with the VCDS stuff is to see if anyone local to you on here will pop round and do it at yours. I'm not sure I'd drive with the throttle apparently having a mind of its own. 

hi, it's hard to tell from the picture what it is, but that looks like the washer that's fitted to the inner end of of the inner cv joint, does it have a lip that turns away from the surface around the outside?

If i can find someone local with vcds willing to help out i shall opt for that otherwise il just have to drive it 3mile down the road.

Right back onto that part, i spoke to my mate who was helping me and he thinks it fell out of the boot as he had to cable tie it back on. So i took the rubber off the inner and took the joint off then on the tripod thingy only two of the rollers are on so thats where it came from. Not a great photo but can see the one on the left is missing.

So can i fit another one on or is it new driveshaft time?

Yes it can be replaced, but you might be better off just finding a second hand driveshaft to stick in there.

If i can get one cheap enough i shall but if not can the singe bearing be replaced or would it have to be the tripod?

I don't think you can buy them separately, and they should only be used as a complete assembly really, they kind of wear in together. You can buy a complete inner joint from most decent motor factors but it will cost about the same as a complete second hand shaft from a breakers yard.

Ok cheers.

Back to the vcds, can i still do the throttle alignment if i have done the egr delete? I think i read somewhere about fooling the ecu with a resistor?

yes you should be able to do it so long as the engine isnt hot, it only attempts to use the egr valve once the engine has reached operating temperature, you would do the throttle alignment without the engine running anyway.