Car is a Y-Plate 2001 Octavia 1,9 TDI 110 with 153,000 miles.

 

The aircon has suddenly stopped working.  It was recharged this summer.  Went from fine on one journey to completely non-functional the next.  Cycling between "Auto" and "Econ" on the climatronic gives no tell-tale drop in revs of a compressor kicking in like it used to.

 

The fuses in the cabin on the end of the dashboard all seem fine.  The fuses under the bonnet are not...

 

 

This fuses seems to be for the cooling fan - would this stop the aircon compressor kicking in?

 

Also - it's pretty obvious that the fuse with issues is not the same as the other two - which Google suggests it should be.  Around 2 years ago the aircon stopped working.  I took it into a garage and they said it was all "fine" and just needed a fuse replacing.  My best guess at the moment is that they replaced the fuse which is currently causing the issues with one that would fit in the somewhat melted socket.

 

Is the best way out of this a new fusebox?  Something else?

 

Thanks for any hints!

 

Ian

Car is a Y-Plate 2001 Octavia 1,9 TDI 110 with 153,000 miles.

 

The aircon has suddenly stopped working.  It was recharged this summer.  Went from fine on one journey to completely non-functional the next.  Cycling between "Auto" and "Econ" on the climatronic gives no tell-tale drop in revs of a compressor kicking in like it used to.

 

The fuses in the cabin on the end of the dashboard all seem fine.  The fuses under the bonnet are not...

 

 

This fuses seems to be for the cooling fan - would this stop the aircon compressor kicking in?

 

Also - it's pretty obvious that the fuse with issues is not the same as the other two - which Google suggests it should be.  Around 2 years ago the aircon stopped working.  I took it into a garage and they said it was all "fine" and just needed a fuse replacing.  My best guess at the moment is that they replaced the fuse which is currently causing the issues with one that would fit in the somewhat melted socket.

 

Is the best way out of this a new fusebox?  Something else?

 

Thanks for any hints!

 

Ian

 

Yes your aircon would stop working as that is the fuse for the cooling fans

 

The different fuse is not the issue. It is still a 30amp one which is what the other 2 are but a none skoda one that's all.

 

You need to deal with the real issue the fuse box has burnt,  to solve your air con problem.

 

These fuse box's are well known to cause issues,  as the wires and connector/nuts that attach to the fuse box can sometimes have impedance issues. This can be caused by poor connections, bad earthing, other component failing etc. When you get poor impedance the current can not completely  cross into the fuse box and therefore starts to heat up the metal connectors at the fuse box end  and this is what causes the burning.

 

I have repaired mine a number of times albeit for different reasons  see here: and have also replaced fuse box

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/220346-battery-issues-fuse-box-melting/

 

Couple of other areas to check for aircon issues are:

 

The Aircon relay (found under battery tray

The main loom to cooling fans is intact

That's  a mess. No way you'll be get a good connection with that amount of corrsion. New fuse box needed.

The fan comes on when AC is turned on so I would imagine that for safety if the fan fuse is blown or missing the AC won't work.

Just to report back...fusebox replaced and all working again.  Thanks.

Just to report back...fusebox replaced and all working again. Thanks.

Good news buddy, that dam fuse box strikes again.

Glad you got it sorted

Sent from my Samsung S3

I've found this on mine today but the fans still work but air con doesn't

I have a spare fuse box as pictured if anyone needs one.  All fuses intact and nothing burnt out

Are they same across the range I've got one from a 1.8 Vrs not sure if the same

Unlikely to be different I think.  I might go take a pic of mine to be sure.  Mine's from a vRS too though.

I'll look tomorrow and let you know

On 08/11/2013 at 20:16, Bowders1 said:

Good news buddy, that dam fuse box strikes again.

Glad you got it sorted

Sent from my Samsung S3

Not sure if anyone will still check this post but I have just had the same issue. Not too bad considering it's a 54 plate vRS which I've had since it was a year old! I've got a new fuse box arriving tomorrow but just wanted to ask if there's anything I need to do to avoid this happening again, other than making sure all the connections are tight?

Also as the one fuse is completely destroyed is it still safe to drive?

The main alternator cable degrading with age is usually the start of this issue, check both ends for signs of corrosion in the terminal. if it looks rough, then you need to renew it really.

How easy is that to replace?

Also is this the correct part number for the alternator cable 1J0971349GN ? 

1 hour ago, kentphil1 said:

The main alternator cable degrading with age is usually the start of this issue, check both ends for signs of corrosion in the terminal. if it looks rough, then you need to renew it really.

Is it safe to drive without the fuse?

is it just a regular 30A blade fuse?

 

Sorry for all the questions!

You have high current bolted fuses and conventional blade fuses in the battery fuse box.

 

Which type has caused your issue?, do you have a picture at all?.

The cable part number is correct assuming you have climatronic. As to how hard it is to fit, not that hard, but access is not good in places if your car is in standard trim.

Yes it's climatronic and car is in standard trim. 

As you look from the front of the car it's the first fuse. 

Also if you zoom in on the black cable there is a split in it, is this likely to be what's causing the issue?

is it safe to drive without the fuse?

1 hour ago, kentphil1 said:

You have high current bolted fuses and conventional blade fuses in the battery fuse box.

 

Which type has caused your issue?, do you have a picture at all?.

It’s the blade fuse that has been damaged. Sod’s law I’ve got almost every other fuse apart from a 30Amp

That does not look good at all, the connection to the main alternator cable (the black one) looks quite nasty.

 

As the next stage of fuse box failure is total loss of power, I would suggest you don't drive it unless you really have to, and get a fuse box and cable on there as soon as is possible.

 

The blade fuse is likely a casualty of the fair amount of heat that has been going on there.

 

Did your climatronic work ok up to this point?.

Climatronic was working as normal although sometimes it would cool the car very well. Temperature gauge started creeping up while I was stuck in traffic on Saturday - that was the point I realised that neither of the fans were working. 

I’ve got a new fuse box arriving today so I’ll order the alternator cable today as well, fingers crossed it doesn’t take too long to arrive. 

Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!

Climatronic was working as normal although sometimes it would cool the car very well. Temperature gauge started creeping up while I was stuck in traffic on Saturday - that was the point I realised that neither of the fans were working. 

There was also what I can only describe as a pulsing sound coming from the left side of the engine bay (as you look at the engine from the front of the bonnet). 

I’ve got a new fuse box arriving today so I’ll order the alternator cable today as well, fingers crossed it doesn’t take too long to arrive. 

Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!

@bullitt vRS - One of the symptoms of "low charge" (which seems like a plausible issue given the state of your alternator cable) is "graceful degradation" of the non-essential electrics, such as radio, ventilation, ABS and ASR (or ESP if fitted).

 

My best advice for now would be to fix the fuse box and cable (on order) since the other issues may then go away.

I would not be driving the car with that as the next thing will happen is the heat generated through  that alt cable will be enough to melt itself completely off the fuse box and you have a live cable floating about in your engine bay . I have seen these arc on the bonnet and could start a fire.

 

once the alt cable has degenerated there is no turning back it will continue to allow resistance to built up at the crimp and make a huge heat build up at the fuse box.

 

hope this helps 

 

 

33 minutes ago, Bowders1 said:

I would not be driving the car with that as the next thing will happen is the heat generated through  that alt cable will be enough to melt itself completely off the fuse box and you have a live cable floating about in your engine bay . I have seen these arc on the bonnet and could start a fire.

 

once the alt cable has degenerated there is no turning back it will continue to allow resistance to built up at the crimp and make a huge heat build up at the fuse box.

 

hope this helps 

 

 

Yeah I took the sensible option and stole the wife’s car today. 

The fuse box is coming today and the alternator cable is arriving on Thursday so I’m hoping to get it all fitted on Thursday afternoon or Friday. 

Thanks for your advice.