Hi Guys

I wondered if anyone can assist. I am intending to install a compact active sub woofer under the passenger seat to complement my newly fitted head unit and door speakers. The sub needs a direct fused connection off the battery but I can't find anywhere to feed the lead through the bulkhead from the engine compartment. On past cars I've usually found the odd grommet but my Yeti seems to be hermetically sealed !

Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated. I don't really want to end up routing the wire under the wing and through the door seal - nuclear option !.

 

Cheers

 

Christopher

I think there are several people looking for a solution to this - I've been trying to get a direct battery feed for ages - although to be honest, I've now got a bodge which works - i.e. routing the wire over the wing and through the door seal (as, for my requirements it's only a temporary installation).

I did look at taking a feed directly from the power socket beside the gear lever, but haven't done that yet - some people reckon that would introduce some noise into the supply - something you don't want with audio (or in my case, a radio).

There is a fairly easy way to get a wire through on the Yeti, just means taking a few bits off. If you remove the battery and the tray under the bonnet and then the glovebox you can see where the main harness comes through the bulkhead. On the main grommet where the loom comes through there are a few 'nipples' if you like on the grommet itself. If you trim the end off one of them it will allow you to pass a cable through and still remain water tight. This is where I feed the additional electric cable through for towbars, always worked for me.

Thanks for the helpful replies.

Just one further point - after disconnecting and connecting the battery am I likely to experience any "error / display / VCD " problems.

On reading various threads I see that error messages do come up but understand these disappear once the car is driven. Anything worse than that ?

Thanks again

 

Christopher

Thanks for the helpful replies.

Just one further point - after disconnecting and connecting the battery am I likely to experience any "error / display / VCD " problems.

On reading various threads I see that error messages do come up but understand these disappear once the car is driven. Anything worse than that ?

Thanks again

 

Christopher

 

Hi Christopher. I have disconnected the battery on our Yeti several times whilst doing mods. etc. Everything re-initialises itself automatically with the exception of the windows and the clock. You need to reset the windows "Force Limiter" setting. Easy 1 minute job and its all in the drivers handbook.

 

Dont forget to make sure that the ignition is OFF when you disconnect the battery and disconnect the Negative terminal first (Reverse order when reconnecting).

 

Hope this helps.................Tony

Remove the wiper arms. remove the black plastic cover and you should find a plug in the bulkhead  behind the battery.    Remove the  plug drill a hole to suit and refit with a little silicone.The glove box will req removal to pull the wire through. which can be led to the seat area under the sill trim. This is the way I went  when fiting the caravan fridge electrics

Christopher - sorry I forgot to include this LINK. It shows how to remove the Glove Box. It's in the Yeti Technical Guides section

 

It may help you get the cable through...................Tony

Hi - I am trying to wire up a switch for auxiliary fog lights - I have taken the glove box out (thanks for the link) and the heater controls out - I have cut one of the nipples off as suggested but I cannot feed the wire through as an air box (I think) is in the way. I cannot for the life of me see how to remove this or feed the wire through. 

 

Can anyone who has done this let me know what I need to do.

 

(Or should I go for the nuclear options as above) 

 

Many thanks

Oh, I also tried the remove the wipers suggestion but could not get the wiper arm off !!!!

It was a very frustrating weekend.

 

I know this is an old thread but I would be grateful for the help.

1 hour ago, JoeSchmofo said:

Hi - I am trying to wire up a switch for auxiliary fog lights

Why do you need more fog lights?
Could you not take the feed of the fog lights already there and use a relay if necessary?

For deep dark rural areas  - and green lanes - and it looks cool!

 

I want the lights to come on when the full beams are on but I also want them to be switchable, so I can have choose between full beam and full beam and extra lights.

 

3 hours ago, JoeSchmofo said:

For deep dark rural areas  - and green lanes - and it looks cool!

 

I want the lights to come on when the full beams are on but I also want them to be switchable, so I can have choose between full beam and full beam and extra lights.

 

Why not upgrade the headlight bulbs with something like Osram Night Breaker Lazer for better lighting than the extra foglamps will supply or is it more for the pose value?

4 hours ago, JoeSchmofo said:

For deep dark rural areas  - and green lanes - and it looks cool!

 

I want the lights to come on when the full beams are on but I also want them to be switchable, so I can have choose between full beam and full beam and extra lights.

 

 

Then those are not fog lights but DRIVING lights. The difference is all laid out in the Vehicle Lighting Regulations which you will have to abide by.

And your biggest problem is going to be getting a feed from the main beam circuit to switch the relay required. Gone are the days when you could just add to that cable, now we have CanBus systems where all the switching is done by computer and trying to add a wire, as you would need to do can easy cause expensive damage to the BCU. Don't bother and replace the standard bulbs with something better, as Urrell suggests.

Yes, driving lights, sorry....

 

I've already done that piece of the set up, the lights are in place and are hard wired into the full beam lights, so there is no turning back, the lights come on full (and I mean full!!!) with the full beams and the canbus has not made a squeak about it. 

 

Anyways I would not have thought that there were any better lights than the bi-xenons.....

 

Now, taking in the above, the fact that I want to use the lights for off road and very rural roads, that I don't want to blind people when thanking them for letting me out of side turnings and most importantly that there is no turning back has anyone got any advice about my actual question rather than suggestions to do something different?

 

Many thanks in advance